Updated August 25/2010

Free Plans: How To Make a Hammock  http://www.uniqueprojects.com/projects/hammock/hammock.htm

http://szynakameble.com/

Home Improvement website:  http://celle-aktuell.net/

Construction Equipment  URL: http://www.priorityplant.com/

http://www.baltimoretalentdevelopmenthighschool.org/

            http://cometolakegarda.net/

Index

Adirondack Loveseat Glider Rocker Plans  May 15/09

Applying Roofing Shingles  April 20/10

Backyard Blunders and How to Fix Them  May 1/08

Budget Before and Afters: Kitchen  April 16/10

Budget Decorators Easy Paint Guide  May 8/09

Build a bench  May 29/09

Build a circular pergola  Nov 21/07

build a pergola  April 27/09

Build a portable salad table  April 16/10

Build a Retaining Wall in Your Yard  May 3/08

Build an awesome deck  April 28/08

Build the Gracious Lake Tahoe Gazebo  Nov 21/07

Build Your Own Sauna or Sweatlodge  Nov 21/07

Building Green Outdoors  Sept 11/08

Clever tile ideas  May 1/10

Deck Materials and Building Guide  May 1/08

Decorating Projects for Do-It-Yourselfers  Sept 5/08

DeWalt DW745 Table Saw  Dec 7/07

Easy Fall Fix-Ups  Nov 2/09

Easy-to-Build Shelves  Sept 30/08

Electric Radiant Floor Warming  Jan 11/08

Exterior Projects  May 29/09

FIX IT YOURSELF AND SAVE BIG  Jan 19/09

Fixes for Outdoor Glitches

Flooring ideas that will boost the value of your home  March 3/10

GET MORE FROM YOUR POWER TOOLS  March 24/08

handle most appliance repairs yourself—and save hundreds!  Aug 18/08

Hardwood floor primer  Jan 11/08

Holding Building Contractors to Their Promises  March 10/09

Home improvement spending do s and don ts  March 20/09

Home Repair How to  Aug 23/10

How to Assemble a Gazebo  April 27/10

How to Build a Childs Playhouse  April 20/10

How to Build a Deck  April 27/09

How to build a four season room  Aug 25/10

How to Build a Patio from Concrete Pavers  March 31/10

How to Build a Wood Fence  March 16/09

How to build a wood arbor for garden or yard  March 29/10

How to Build an Outdoor Dining Table and Planter Boxes  Aug 25/10

How to Build an Outdoor Kitchen  April 6/10

How to Build an Outdoor Picnic Table - Introduction  Aug 25/10

How to Buy Hand Tools

How to construct a custom workbench  March 10/10

How to Construct an Attached Pergola  June 3/09

How to Design a Deck  April 27/09

How to design a build a kitchen island  March 10/10

How to Design and Build a Toy Chest  April 12/10

How To Fix Furniture Without Breaking The Bank  March 29/10

How to install Ceramic Flooring  Jan 11/08

How to install vinyl flooring  Jan 11/08

How to Laminate a Countertop  Aug 11/08

How to Make Simple Deck Repairs  March 16/09

How to Plan a Gameroom from Start to Finish  Oct 4/08

How To Repair Sagging Fence Gates: Hanging Fence Gates  May 15/09

How To Screen Porch  March 18/09

IBS: New Building Materials  March 30/09

Ideas for DIY Loving moms  May 6/09

Interior Painting  Feb 2/09

Kitchen Remodeling - Prepping Your New Kitchen  Aug 11/08

Learn the Basics of  Painting and Wallpapering From a Pro  Jan 23/09

Learn the Fundamentals of Woodworking  April 28/08

Make a pergola  Nov 21/07

Make small kitchens look and feel bigger  March 29/10

Make your garage a better storage and work space with expert help.  Sept 26/08

Mechanical Articles  Jan 23/09

Outdoor Privacy Screens  May 1/08

Paint faster, better, and less often  April 27/09

Painting like a Pro  July 25/08

Painting techniques: texturing  Feb 2/09

Patio/Deck Projects  May 3/08

Planning the Perfect Deck  April 27/09

Planter Box - Free Woodworking Plans  May 1/08

Professional tools every homeowner should know about  Nov 18/08

Projects for summer weekends  April 20/10

Quick and easy kitchen cabinet upgrad ideas  Aug 25/10

Refinishing Cabinets  Aug 11/08

Repair a Sliding Screen Door  May 3/08

Repair Restore Rejoice: Making the most of home appliances  Jan 23/09

Repairing a Dishwasher  Jan 19/09

Save energy, save money!  Dec 17/07

SAVE $1000s IN REPAIR BILLS  Feb 23/09

Skills that save MONEY  May 19/09

Small Water Fountains: A Beginners Project  June 23/08

Smart Flooring upgrades  Aug 9/10

solutions to common exterior troubles  July 22/08

Spring projects that make summer easier March 2 4/09

Spruce up driveways and walkways  March 1/10

Things a new homeowner should do immediately to save money  Oct 22/08

Things it s cheaper to do yourself  Feb 18/09

Tools every man should have in his toolbox  Feb 20/09

Tutorials for Yard & Home Exterior  May 1/08

Upgrades that pay you back  Aug 9/10

Wallet friendly ways to update your kitchen  Feb 23/10

Wave laptop stand  March 24/09

What is radian floor heating  Feb 4/09

What is ratproofing  Sept 11/08

What should you do before using woodworking machines  Feb 4/09

How to Build a Four Season Room

View the Video.    http://www.ronhazelton.com/article/home/home_other/UDI2NA/How_to_Build_a_Four_Season_Room_

Read the Article. http://www.ronhazelton.com/article/home/home_other/UDI2NA/How_to_Build_a_Four_Season_Room_

^{Fix Now, Save (A Lot) Later  http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/photos/0,,20303977,00.html?xid=hinewsletter-100525-fix-now-save-later}

^{By: Laura Fisher Kaiser}

^{How to Build an Outdoor Picnic Table - Introduction}

^{Intro - Assemble - Checklist}

^{Project Introduction Overview}

^{Everyone enjoys the look and utility of good outdoor furniture. Due to the high cost of buying, many do it yourselfers are making their own custom pieces. In these pages we are going to show you the correct way to build an outdoor table in your own workshop. We will take you through step by step, from initial planning to the finished product.}

^Planning

^{Go through the tools and materials checklist carefully. Know the safety standards for the project. Plan to gather the items that you will be using, and place them where you will be building. The outdoor table is very large; you must plan its location so you can take it outside upon completion. If you don't have enough space inside to build it, then assemble it on a driveway or other flat area.}

^{Look down the list and find materials of the same kind and thickness. Plan to buy these materials in a size that will produce the number of pieces you will need with the least amount of waste. Add up the total number of board feet, being careful to make sure you group short pieces in a board with long pieces to minimize waste.}

^{Due to corrosion, special care should be taken when selecting materials. Look for hot dipped galvanized fasteners when assembling outdoor furniture. Also for any gluing, look on the label to see if the glue is waterproof. This will keep the furniture sturdy for years.}

^{The design for outdoor furniture is very different from in door designs. There is less intricate detail but a higher degree of sturdiness. The cuts are made once, so measure twice and cut carefully leaving no extra length on the ends.}

^{Safety Tips}

1. ^{Safety glasses or goggles should be worn whenever power tools are in use and when chiseling, sanding, scraping or hammering overhead. This is very important if you wear contact lenses.}
2. ^{Wear ear protectors when using power tools. Some operate at noise levels that damage hearing.}
3. ^{Be careful of loose hair and clothing so that it does not get caught in tools.}
4. ^{The proper respirator or face mask should be worn when sanding or sawing or using substances with toxic fumes.}
5. ^{Keep blades sharp. A dull blade requires excessive force and can slip which causes accidents.}
6. ^{Always use the right tool for the job.}
7. ^{Repair or discard tools with cracks in the wooden handles or chips in the metal parts.}
8. ^{Don't drill, shape or saw anything that isn't firmly secured.}
9. ^{Oily rags are spontaneously combustible. Take care when you store and discard them.}
10. ^{Don't abuse your tools.}
11. ^{Keep a First Aid Kit on hand.}
12. ^{Do not work with tools when you are tired. That's when most accidents occur.}
13. ^{Read the owner's manual for all tools and know the proper use of each.}
14. ^{Keep tools out of reach of small children.}
15. ^{Unplug all power tools when changing settings or parts.}

^{Know Where Your Hands Are At All Times!}

^{Most Common Mistakes}

^{The single most common mistake in any do it yourself project is the failure to read and follow the manufacturer's instructions for any tool or material being used. Other common mistakes include taking the safety measures that are laid out for a project for granted, and poor project planning. Here is a list of hints to successfully complete a project and to do it safely.}

1. ^{Follow the "Golden Rule" of measuring: "Measure twice, cut once."}
2. ^{Provide yourself plenty of time for each step.}
3. ^{Know your plan}
4. ^{When finishing the wood, keep dust and dirt away from the cabinet.}
5. ^{Follow the instructions on your choice of finish carefully.}
6. ^{Drill holes in table legs after you are sure everything is aligned.}
7. ^{Always use rustproof fasteners, such as hot dipped galvanized metal.}
8. ^{Use a siding nail on top of the table. Their heads are smaller than common nails and will not be as visible. Brass ring shanked boat nails are excellent if available.}
9. ^{Be sure to use waterproof glue on the planter box.}
10. ^{Be sure to drill pilot holes before driving nails near the end of boards.}
11. ^{Be sure your cuts are the specified dimension and cut at the proper angle.}
12. ^{Use a jig or a stop block on a table saw to be sure to get several boards cut identically.}

^Plans

^{To make the table larger, add four inches to the length of the long spokes, add two inches to the length of the short spokes, plus two inches to the length of the planks. Move the legs two inches farther away from the center and the result is an increase of seating by four inches in diameter. Also you will need to increase the number of top planks.}

^{If you increase the length you will also have to figure out how long each course (or circle) of planks will be. If you are using 3 1/2" wide boards (2 x 4's) the individual planks in each row will be 4 1/4" shorter than the row to the outside, assuming a 1/4" space between rows for drainage.}

^Terminology

^{These are some terms that you need to be familiar with:}

1. ^{Miter Cut - Angle cut across the width or thickness of the board}
2. ^{Cleats - (or supports) Small boards that support the seat ends.}
3. ^{Gussets - Round pieces of wood that strengthen the center of the spokes.}
4. ^{Kerf - Width of the blade}
5. ^{Dowel - Wooden pin used to provide strength and alignment}

^{Wood Selection}

^{Outdoor furniture needs to be durable and resist rot, decay, and water stain. Three natural heartwoods are preferred for this: redwood, cedar and cypress. These woods contain natural oils that tolerate the weather and both have warm, rich colors. A heartwood is the wood from the center of the tree. The area around the center carries the sap in the tree and is called sap wood.}

^{Another material that is widely used in constructing outdoor furniture is pressure treated wood. This is a less expensive choice than natural rot resistant woods and more readily available. When you make the cuts on this type of wood, a water repellent will need to be applied to the end grain because the pressure treatment only penetrates 1/4" to 1/2" into the wood.}

^{A Step By Step Approach}

^{These are the steps to follow in building most outdoor furniture.}

1. ^{Familiarizing yourself with the plan.}
2. ^{Cutting the lumber to length.}
3. ^{Assembling the spokes and installing planks.}
4. ^{Assembling the table.}
5. ^Finishing

^{Familiarizing yourself with the Plan}

^{There are no rough cuts on outdoor projects, only final cuts. Make sure the cuts are accurate and recheck the dimensions of each board as stated in the plan. Label the pieces after each cut in a place that will not show on the finished project.}

^{The table saw is used to make many of the cuts. Remember to allow for the width of the saw cut, called a kerf when measuring for the fence setting. Cut to the scrap side of the wood. Also a circular saw can be used to make the cuts. If you are using a circular saw, it is wise to make a jig to make be sure to get accurate angle cuts and several boards always cut the exact same length.}

^{Keep the plan close for review purposes during the construction of the project. By knowing the plan thoroughly and rechecking when there is a question, many mistakes will be avoided and the project will flow smoothly.}

^{Cutting the Lumber to Length}

^{The planks are mitered at a 30 degree angle across the face of the board, and the short spokes are mitered at a 30 degree angle through the thickness. The shortest spokes are double mitered at 30 degree angles through the thickness. Taper the outside end of the spokes at a 60 degree angle.}

1. ^{To make the 30 degree cuts, tilt the table saw miter gauge to 60 degrees and make a simple jig to do all the taper cuts quickly and accurately. Attach a long wooden face to the miter gauge and clamp a stop block to this face.}
2. ^{Clamp the board to be cut to the jig and feed it slowly into the blade. Be careful when doing this because the saw guard must be flipped out of the way.}
3. ^{Cut the legs, cleats, planks and spokes to length with the table saw and jig, labeling each one as you finish.}
4. ^{To make the miter cuts across the thickness (1 1/2" dimension) of the boards, tilt the table or the blade, depending on the saw, to 30 degrees. The four short spokes are double mitered cut. Turn the spoke over and miter the other side at 30 degrees. The point should be at one half the thickness from the side, so that the point meets in the center of the stock.}

^{Assembling the Spokes and Planks}

1. ^{Attach the cleats to the outside ends of the seat spokes using 6-penny galvanized nails. If needed, drill a pilot hole before nailing to prevent the wood from splitting.}
2. ^{Lay the spokes for both the seat and the top on a clean flat surface. Mark the spokes so that lines drawn across the centers of opposing spokes will cross at a center point (both in depth and length) of the long spoke. Then mark each spoke at their exact location on the long spoke so you will know when each spoke is exactly positioned.}
3. ^{Tack the spokes together. Some of the boards can be face nailed into the long spoke, others must toenailed. Drill pilot holes for the toenail and apply the round gusset after the planks are on.}
4. ^{Attach the planks to the spokes using hot dipped galvanized siding nails (12d or 16d). Do not hammer them in all the way at first in case there is a need to make an adjustment later. Allow 1" between the courses of planks so that water will not be trapped and cause wood rot and swelling.}
5. ^{Add a gusset to the bottom of the top wheel and one on each side of the seat wheel. Align the grain of the gussets to be perpendicular to the grain of the long spokes. Again drill pilot holes to avoid splitting.}

^{Assembling the Table}

1. ^{Assemble the table on a level surface, turn the top wheel upside down and place the seat wheel on top of it.}
2. ^{Use concrete blocks or scrap wood to block the seat wheel up off the top wheel so tops of the seats are facing down. This top edge of the seat should be exactly 13 inches off the ground. Make sure the seat wheel is centered over the top wheel so that the spokes are aligned.}
3. ^{Clamp two legs to the top spokes on opposite sides of the wheel. Measure carefully in several areas to make sure they are in the right place, and then measure the seat wheel to make sure it is still centered. Be sure that the angle cut at the end of the legs are flat against the bottom of the table top. This step takes a lot of measuring and adjusting until everything is properly aligned.}
4. ^{When the leg placement is correct, tighten the clamps.}
5. ^{Drill holes for the carriage bolts, insert them then tighten.}

^{Repeat for all the legs, and your table is ready for a finish if you plan to use one.}

^{Finishing Touches}

^{Whether you choose to paint, stain, shellac, or just leave the natural color depends on the type of wood from which you built the project and how you want it to weather. If you used treated wood, a clear or tinted sealer, or a water proofing liquid will help it weather.}

^{If painting the furniture is the option you choose, add a mildew resistant element if it does not come with one. Use a special primer as an undercoat so that the paint will adhere better. Thin coats of paint are better then heavy ones and a good brush is important.}

^{Redwood, cypress or cedar do not need a protective coat, however you may want to use one so the wood will not water stain. There are many clear waterproofing liquids on the market made just for redwood, cedar and cypress. These prevent water stain and blackening of the wood.}

^{A varnish stain or polyurethane in clear or tinted is another choice for redwood, cypress and cedar. However you will have some peeling in many climates. If you can not find the right color, a regular wood stain can be used and then just apply a sealer. All stains will darken the grain of the wood in proportion to the length of time the stain is left on. If a driftwood gray is desired a bleaching agent can supply that look.}

^{Be careful when finishing outdoors because of wind blown debris. Keep a good brush, mineral spirits and rags handy to cope. Follow the manufacturers instructions closely, and make sure there is plenty of ventilation.}

^Tools

1. ^{Table Saw or circular saw}
2. ^{Drill or horizontal boring tool}
3. ^{Clamps for gluing}
4. ^{Doweling jig}

^Materials

• ^{Long Top Spoke 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" x 46 1/2"}
• ^{Short Top Spokes (2) 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" x 22 13/16"}
• ^{Shortest Top Spokes (2) 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" x 22 3/8"}
• ^{First Course Top Planks (6) 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" x 24"}
• ^{Second Course Top Planks (6) 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" x 19 3/4"}
• ^{Third Course Top Planks (6) 1 1/2" x 3 1/2 " x 15 1/2"}
• ^{Fourth Course Top Planks (6) 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" x 11 1/4"}
• ^{Fifth Course Top Planks (6) 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" x 7"}
• ^{Top Center Pieces (2) 1 1/2" x 2 1/2" x 5 5/8"}
• ^{Long Seat Spoke 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" x 77 3/4 "}
• ^{Short Seat Spokes 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" x 38 7/16"}
• ^{Shortest Seat Spokes 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" x 38"}
• ^{First Course Seat Planks (6) 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" x 39 5/8 "}
• ^{Second Course Seat Planks (6) 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" x 35 3/8 "}
• ^{Third Course Seat Planks (6) 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" x 31 1/8 "}
• ^{Legs (6) 1 1/2" x 3 1/2 " x 34 7/8"}
• ^{Gussets (3) 7 1/2 dia." x 3/4'}
• ^{Cleats (12) 3/4" x 1 1/2" x 12"}
• ^{Rust resistant nails, bolts, washers and nuts. (3/8" x 3 1/2" - 24 pieces)}

^{Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/picnictablechecklist#ixzz0pB95VVGz}

^{Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/picnictableassemble#ixzz0pB8xfBlP}

^{Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/picnictableintro#ixzz0pB8oM9lt}

^{How to Build an Outdoor Dining Table and Planter Boxes}

^{Build by These Winning Plans to Create a Sturdy and Stunning Outdoor Dining Table with Matching Planters of Weather-resistant Cedar}

^{http://www.ronhazelton.com/article/outdoors/other/UDI1MQ/How_to_Build_an_Outdoor_Dining_Table_and_Planter_Boxes_}

^{Click here to view full project video}

^{Construct beautiful DIY outdoor furniture--a wooden table and planter boxes--with cedar four-by-fours, two-by-fours, and two-by-sixes. The refined design is simple yet rather elegant for a patio table and planters, despite its stout cedar construction. The table is assembled with invisible biscuit joinery and dressed with a top coat of natural-colored waterproofing that adds gloss and a long life.}

^{Step by Step Instructions with Video}

^{Click here to play video}

^Step
1

^{Notch out Tenons on Table Legs with a Japanese Handsaw}

^{Cut table legs. Use a combination square to transfer the thickness and width of a two-by-four table rail to the top of each four-by-four table leg to define cut lines for tenons. Cut out the tenons with a Japanese handsaw.
View Video for Details >>}

^{Click here to play video}

^Step
2

^{Pre-drill Countersunk Shank Holes and Assemble Table Rails}

^{Cut two-by-four table rails for a frame and cross rail and pre-drill two equally-spaced countersunk shank holes through each end. Apply glue to joints, assemble and clamp the rails and then secure the joints by driving in screws.
View Video for Details >>}

^{Click here to play video}

^Step
3

^{Pre-drill Tenons on Table Legs and Attach to Rails}

^{Bore shank holes through the two outer surfaces of the tenon on each leg. Butt the rails and tenons against each other to form a corner joint. Secure from the inside, driving screws through the tenons into the rails.
View Video for Details >>}

^{Click here to play video}

^Step
4

^{Slot Surface Planks and Assemble with Invisible Biscuit Joinery}

^{Cut double rows of slots with a plate joiner in the ends of two-by-fours and sides of two-by-sixes for the surface planks and frame for the table top. Glue the slots, insert biscuits to join, and clamp them until dry.
View Video for Details >>}

^{Click here to play video}

^Step
5

^{Secure Cleats along the Inside of the Table Rails}

^{Cut strips of wood to install for cleats to support the tabletop. Bore clearance holes on cleats, position, glue, and screw along inside of table frame/rails. The tabletop will be attached in a later step.
View Video for Details >>}

^{Click here to play video}

^Step
6

^{Cut Cedar Plugs with Special Bit to Fill Screw Holes}

^{Use a power drill and plug cutter in a portable drill press to cut cedar plugs for filling screw holes. Pop out the cut plug with a chisel, apply glue, and insert while matching grain. Remove excess and sand smooth.
View Video for Details >>}

^{Click here to play video}

^Step
7

^{Finish Framing the Tabletop and Secure It to Cleats}

^{Add two-by-six frame pieces to the long sides of the table top, securing them with biscuit joints at the ends of the short two-by-sixes. Secure tabletop to cleats with screws. Coat the table with exterior wood protector.
View Video for Details >>}

^{Click here to play video}

^Step
8

^{Assemble Frames from Two-by-twos for the Planter's Four Sides}

^{Construct cedar frames from two-by-twos for the planter boxes' vertical sides. Apply construction adhesive. Attach tongue-and-groove cedar strips, nailing the first through its face and tongue and successive strips through the tongue only.
View Video for Details >>}

^{Click here to play video}

^Step
9

^{Attach Planter Box Sides to Legs and Attach Top Planks}

^{Secure sides to legs with construction adhesive and screws, completing a four-sided frame open at top and bottom. Set the planter on its side, positioning top planks and driving screws from the inside through the frame to secure them.
View Video for Details >>}

^{Click here to play video}

^Step
10

^{Build a Liner and Fill with Potting Soil and Plants}

^{Build a liner from pressure-treated plywood. Drill drain holes in the bottom and attach handles so the liner can be lifted out. Set liner in planter and cover bottom with landscape fabric. Add good quality potting mix and plants.
View Video for Details >>}

Home Repairs How To

This site has a ton of how-to articles on home repairs. If you scroll down just a little bit on the screen you’ll see all the different categories of repair available. I came here looking for a fix for my stairway. I not only learned how to fix the problem, but I also learned how stairs are designed to work.

Besides the plethora of repair guides down the front of the page, there are also navigation options on the left menu. They are: Fix-It Basics, Fix-It Tips, Parts& Components, Recycling, Apparel & Jewelry, Electrical, Electronics, Exercise & Leisure, Heating & Cooling, Home Exterior, Home Interior, Major Appliances, Plumbing, Small Appliances, and Yard & Garden. I mention this option of navigating the site, because I was a little overwhelmed by the slew of links down the front of the page.

There is also a search field on the top of the page that will let you search for specific repairs. This might make it easier to find specific topics quickly.

It seems like no matter what you have to repair that you will find a repair solution here. Check it out today!

http://www.fixitclub.com/

~Amanda

13 Upgrades That Pay You Back Prioritize a limited budget by picking the home renovations that can bring the biggest return on your investment Brokers recommend affordable upgrades that'll boost the value of your home Turn untapped attic space into an airy, light-filled master suite Upgrade or repair your siding to make a huge difference in a house's resale value 5 weekend projects, including yard clean-up and entryway spruce-up, that'll up the chances of a sale House-selling secrets, including how to find balance between too bare and too much, from a professional home stager

23 Smart Flooring Upgrades Easy-to-install, innovative, and affordable choices including engineered wood, modern vinyl, and cork tiles All about engineered wood floors, including pros, cons, where to install, and what it'll cost you Lay engineered flooring boards yourself in just 1 day Pro steps to refinish scratched hardwood floors Use durable floor paint to create a bright, checkerboard pattern Watch the TOH crew retrofit radiant floor heating from above Put in wall-to-wall carpeting with professional-looking results

How to Assemble a Gazebo

http://www.ronhazelton.com/article/outdoors/garden/UDI0Nw/How_to_Assemble_a_Gazebo__

A pre-manufactured gazebo kit is a simple updgrade to outdoor living space

Click here to view full project video

Maximize your outdoor living space by utilizing a pre-made gazebo kit. Assembly is fairly quick, and as we see in this project, can be easily customized to fit the space that you have. These pre-manufactured gazebo kits are available through most home improvement retailers. Create an outdoor place to read, entertain, or simply sit back and relax out of the sun and away from the bugs.

Step by Step Instructions with Video

Click here to play video

Step
1

Determine the best location

etermining the best place for your gazebo may seem like an afterthought, but as you'll see in this project, the proper location requires some consideration, as the property owners need room to work around the front of the gazebo. While not everyone will be building right next to the water, you may want to ensure that you have room for landscaping, weeding, or mowing if you plan to build your gazebo near your house or another outbuilding.
View Video for Details >>

Click here to play video

Step
2

Secure the floor joists

When using a kit, it is important to ensure that the joist are spaced properly, because the floor panels are pre-assembled and you want to make sure they fit. Using heavy deck screws, secure the joists to the outside rim, and to the support block at the center. This will ensure a sturdy floor system that won't move or shift.
View Video for Details >>

Click here to play video

Step
3

Install the pre-assembled floor panels

Since the floor panels of this kit came pre-assembled, setting them into place should be similar to putting together a large jigsaw puzzle. Simply set them into place and secure the panels into place per the manufacturer's instructions. If you do need to add some additional support to one area of the gazebo floor, make sure you bolt those support posts to the joists so the floor is sturdy, and stands up to weather and seasonal changes. This will need to be done before the floor panels are set into place in that specific area.
View Video for Details >>

Click here to play video

Step
4

Set up the walls

Just like the floor panels, the walls in this system are pre-assembled. When you are ready to put them up, each panel needs to be set into place and screwed into the one next to it, as well as to the floor. Put some thought into where the doors will best be located and leave the openings there. The doors will be installed when we add the finishing touches at the end.
View Video for Details >>

Click here to play video

Step
5

Use Gussets to solidify the walls

ven after the walls are up and screwed together, they still may feel a bit rickety. Use a gusset to secure them. A gusset it nothing more than an additional piece of wood that overlaps to section of wall and gets screwed into both from the top. This helps tie them together and makes the walls more rigid. The gussets should be included with any pre-manufactured gazebo kit that you buy.
View Video for Details >>

Click here to play video

Step
6

Rafters must form the foundation for the roof

The best way to begin assembling the rafters is actually on the ground. Use the block that is provided for the peak and fasten a rafter on each side. Once this initial framework is secure, it can be set into place on top of the walls. The additional rafters can now be installed to the tops of the walls, and the center block at the peak. Make sure that there are secured tightly, as the rafters will bear the weight of the roof sheeting and whatever elements the weather may throw at it.
View Video for Details >>

Click here to play video

Step
7

Install the roof sheeting

Like the flooring, the sheeting for the roof is already cut to the correct size for the kit. These pieces simply need to be lifted into place, and then secured with 6 penny galvanized nails.
View Video for Details >>

Click here to play video

Step
8

Install the roofing materials

Begin the roofing process by covering the sheeting panels with 15 pound roofing felt. Start at the bottom and add overlapping layers until you get to the top. Once the felt is in place, then an aluminum drip edge should be nailed all the way around the bottom edge of the roof. When the drop edge is secured, you are ready to start shingling. Begin at the bottom with a starter row, and then work your way to the top.
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Step
9

Add the finishing touches

Once the roofing materials are applied, it's time to add the finishing touches. This kit includes some fascia board and window sills, as well as the screen panels and screen doors that will keep the bugs out. You may or may not have these with your kit, or you may decide to remove the screen material seasonally. You are now ready to sit back, relax, and enjoy your hard work in your new, pre-manufactured gazebo.
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  Top 24 Projects for Summer Weekends
Our most popular warm-weather Step-by-Steps—complete with tool and shopping lists—to keep you busy this DIY season

Build a fire pit for a cozy place to gather on cool summer nights
Make an adirondack chair out of decking lumber in 5 easy steps
Add a garden trellis for beautiful climbing plants, like Clematis
Install drip irrigation to refresh plants while conserving water
Put in a ceiling fan to increase airflow and cut cooling costs

Applying Roofing Shingles

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/applyroofingshingles

When it's time to reshingle your roof, follow these instructions to make your shingle project safer, easier and professional looking.

Important Points to Remember:

• Working on any roof can be dangerous. You should take every safety precaution possible, and always use extreme care while working on the roof.
• Use common sense while working on the roof. Let someone know you are up there - or better yet, work with a helper.
• Use a ladder that is high enough and strong enough for the job you are doing. Secure the ladder at the top and bottom before climbing it.
• Use extreme caution when working near power lines, conduits or TV antennas. Never touch them or allow a metal ladder to come in contact with them.
• Never start a roofing job in cold or wet weather. Also, allow early morning dew to disappear before beginning your work.
• Wear heavy, rubber-soled shoes with a non-skid tread to prevent slips, and avoid wearing loose clothing.
• If the roof slopes more than a 6" rise for every 12" horizontally, use roof brackets and boards to provide extra footing support. Place all tools and shingles within easy reach and where they will not slide off the roof.
• Keep the roof surface clean and free from loose nails and shingles. These can cause you to slip and fall.
• Keep people away from below the area where you will be working.

Determine the Materials Needed:

• Roofing shingles are sold in "squares." Most asphalt shingles are baled together with three or four bundles per square.
• First, measure the length and width of each area of the roof. For each area of the roof, multiply the length times the width. Then add the results for the total square feet of shingles needed. Measure all dormers and extensions.
• Divide the total square footage by 100, and purchase that many squares of shingles.
• Purchase an additional 10% of the number of shingles for cutting, waste and starter courses, and to save one bundle for future repairs.
• You'll also need about 2 1/2 pounds of roofing nails for each square of shingles. Use hot galvanized roofing nails, either 11- or 12-gauge with a 3/8" diameter head, or follow the shingle manufacturer's recommendation for the type of nails to be used.
• Use 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" nails for new roofs, or 1 3/4" nails for reroofing or repairs.
• If you are starting a new roofing job, or a complete reroofing project, you'll also need enough 15-lb. roofing felt to cover the entire roof area underneath the shingles.
• You'll need roofing cement for edges, flashings and ridges.

Select the Shingles:
There are many types, styles and sizes of asphalt shingles. Your selection process should begin with the type and grade of asphalt shingle needed for the type of building. Some factors to consider are the purpose of the building; the slope of the roof; local weather conditions; and the design, style and size of the structure.
The exposure for each type of shingle is usually specified by the manufacturer. However, for most common shingles, a 5" exposure is standard.

Before You Begin:
You can successfully lay asphalt shingles over any existing roof. However, if there are more than three layers of old roofing on the structure, they must be removed completely before applying new shingles.
Make any necessary repairs to the roof structure before beginning the reroofing project.
Drive down or remove any loose or rotruding nails.
When you're applying new shingles over old wooden shingles, nail them securely and use feathering strips for a smooth appearance.

Applying Felt For Asphalt Shingles
Applying new asphalt shingles on a complete roofing job, or on new construction, requires a layer of 15-lb. roofing felt over 5/8" plywood sheathing.

Step 1. Each course of the roofing felt should overlap the preceding course by at least 2" to provide adequate weatherproofing protection.

Step 2. Staple the felt underlayment into position, starting at the edge of the eaves and extending up to the roof ridge.

Step 3. Install a Starter Strip: First, locate the exact center of the roof and mark it with a chalk line. Next, install a starter strip along the bottom edge of the roof. Many manufacturers offer a special starter strip; however, if you don't have this strip, you can cut the tabs off the shingles and use the shingles to form a starter strip.

Step 4. Starting the Shingles: The starter strip should project out over the eaves and the gable end by about 5/8". After the starter strip is in place, again locate the exact center of the roof and mark it with a chalk line. Center your first shingle on the chalk line - directly on top of the starter strip - and nail it into position (Fig. 4).

Step 5. Nailing the First Course of Shingles: Use four nails in each shingle, located in the position shown in Fig. 5. Always drive the nails straight in and never at an angle, as they could cut the shingle and cause leaks. Place the nails about 5 5/8" up from the bottom of the shingle. Each succeeding shingle should bump up against the center shingle. Continue applying the shingles to the end of the roof in each direction.

Step 6. Adding the Next Courses of Shingles: After the first course of shingles has been laid on top of the starter strip, snap down a chalk line at the manufacturer's specified exposure, usually 5", to aid in applying shingles. Continue snapping down chalk lines until you reach the ridge of the roof. This simplifies the job of laying each succeeding course of shingles in a straight line.

• Start the second course of shingles on top of the first course. Place the cut-out over the center of the middle tab on the center shingle. Continue placing shingles in the second course to the end of the roof in each direction. Start at the center of the roof for the third course of shingles. Again, place the cut-out over the center tab on the preceding row, and continue to the end of the roof.
• Follow this procedure until you reach the ridge of the roof. Then start on the other side of the roof in the same way you started the first side.

• Tip: A shingle cut-out must never fall directly over another cut-out in the row immediately below it.

Courtesy of the National Retail Hardware Association - www.nrha.org.

Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/applyroofingshingles#ixzz0lIWW1WRn

How to Build a Child's Playhouse

Build an outdoor child's playhouse with basic building materials and create a space for your children that they can call their very own.

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Capture the playhouse that lives in your child's imagination and make it a reality. With a little bit of planning, and the proper tools, you can design, build, and decorate a playhouse that will stand up to the wear and tear that your kids will inflict upon it, as well as the weather. Using a few basic building techniques, your child's playhouse can be fun, functional, and structurally sound.

Step by Step Instructions with Video

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Step
1

uild the Floor Frame

After you have decided on a size, location, and layout, it is time to cut and attach pressure treated joists to form a frame for the floor. Use nails to hold the frame pieces together. Stakes can be set into the ground to mark the corners, because you will need to set the completed frame aside for a bit in order to complete the next step.
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Step
2

Level the Foundation

Use sand and flat paving stones to construct a level foundation for the joists to sit on. Make sure you use a level to ensure that the pavers are all at the same height. A length of string can also be used to help you complete this step. It is important that additional sand and pavers are set into any low spots so that the frame of the playhouse won't settle later.
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Step
3

Install Porch Posts

Clamp the first post into place against the outside joist, and then use a post level to make sure it is standing up straight and not leaning. Once you are confident that it is where you want it, drill a hole through the joist and the post, and then secure it with a bolt, washer, and nut. Repeat this step for all 4 posts. Make sure you use galvanized nuts and bolts so that they don't deteriorate in the weather.
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Step
4

A tip on Flooring Installation

Tack a strip of roofing felt between the floor boards and joists to eliminate squeaks and to add an extra measure of weatherproofing to your project. The felt will prevent the wood from rubbing and the result is a much quieter floor. You can use staples to tack down the felt.
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Step
5

Install the Floor Boards

Start with any floor boards that need to be notched or trimmed to fit around posts. You can use a jig saw to cut the notches. Once those are in place, you can install the rest of your floor using galvanized screws. Pressure treated decking works great for the floor of an outdoor child's playhouse.
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Step
6

Frame the Walls

Nail together the basic structure of each wall on a flat surface, one at a time. As the walls are completed, screw them into place through the bottom plate and into the floor. Make sure that each wall is also nailed or screwed into the adjoining wall at each corner. The walls may seem a bit rickety at this point, but they will tighten up in the next step.
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Step
7

Install the sheeting

For this project, Ron is using T-111 siding. Each piece should be cut to the proper size and set in place over the outside of the wall studs. Use a nail gun to secure the sheeting to the wall, keeping about 16 inches between each nail. As you secure the sheeting to the frame, you will notice that the house becomes much more stable and that the wall don't wiggle, shake or move.
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Step
8

Construct and Install Roof Joists

The easiest way to build the roof trusses and attach the gussets is to layout a simple jig on the floor of the house. It can be quickly removed when the project is complete. Once you have the trusses constructed, you will need to set them into place and secure them through the bottom of the eave with a screw. Like the walls, they will become much more secure once the sheeting is put into place.
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Step
9

Install the Roof

After the trusses are all in place, install the roof sheeting the same way that you did the walls. After the sheeting is in place,install a strip of aluminimum drip edge to prevent water from seeping into the sheeting. Once that is in place, roll out the roofing felt starting at the bottom edge and work your way up. It can be fastened down with staples. Lay the shingles over the top of the felt, again starting at the bottom, to complete the roof. Your playhouse is now sealed up tight against any rain, snow, wind or other weather that may come your way.
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Step
10

Set Windows into Place

Windows can be installed from the outside of the house and fastened directly against the exterior wall. Make sure you seal the flange between the wall and the window with caulk, and then secure the window to the house by driving roofing nails through the nailing flange and into the frame of the playhouse. Once the window is secure, it can be trimmed with a 1x4 frame to make it look finished.
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Step
11

Build a Railing for the Porch

You can use a pre-fabricated railing system that should be available at most home improvement stores. Glue the balusters into place, and then secure them with finish nails for added stability. Once the rail is constructed, it can be set into place and secured to the porch posts that were installed in Step 3.
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Step
12

Add Your Own Finishing Touches

The personal touches that can be added to a playhouse like this don't know any limit. Custom pieces, decorations, or themes can be added to accommodate the flavors and styles of any child. This is a great step to let the kids participate in, and they may get just as much value out of helping as they will out of playing in the completed project.
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http://www.ronhazelton.com/article/outdoors/other/UDIyNw/How_to_Build_a_Child_s_Playhouse_

Build a portable salad table

By

Sean Conway

Photography by

Webb Shappell

http://www.canadiangardening.com/how-to/projects/build-a-portable-salad-table/a/21980?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=cg_100412

Save space in the garden by building this portable salad garden

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Gardeners are always looking for new ways to fit more plants into their lives, and University of Maryland agricultural extension agent Jon Traunfeld is no exception. Not only does his portable salad table allow people to grow greens wherever they live, it is also easy to build and transport. That means it can be moved into a protected area when necessary to extend the growing season as long as possible. By growing cut-and-come-again crops of spinach, lettuce, and other leafy greens, and the occasional reseeding of this small table garden, you can make sure you and your loved ones get their daily greens for months on end. The tray can be set up on sawhorses, so that caring for and harvesting it can be done without constant bending—which is especially nice at the end of a long day of work in the perennial garden.

Jon has also built customized forms of this table for growing tomatoes and cucumbers in sizes that are suited to any space. This version is 58 inches long by 33 inches wide, with a 3½-inch depth perfectly suited to growing lettuce.

The table is a simple frame with a mesh base to hold soil but allow water to drain off, allowing lettuce to thrive in the conditions it loves. Because the crops harvested will be eaten, use untreated framing lumber.

Materials
2 untreated 2"x4"x10'
#2 galvanized Phillips screws, 3" long
3'x5' piece of aluminum window screening
3⁄8" staples
3'x5' piece of 1⁄2" mesh hardware cloth
Roofing nails
Sawhorses on which to set finished table
Tools
Miter saw
Hammer
Staple gun
Screwdriver
Drill
Tin snips

1.    Using a miter saw, cut two  2x4 to make the long sides of the tray. Cut four 30" 58" lengths out of one 10'  2x4 to serve as crosspieces. lengths from the other 10'

2.    Using 3" galvanized screws, attach the 58" long sides to the 30" crosspieces, predrilling holes to avoid splitting wood. The 2 interior crosspieces are attached 183⁄4" from each end of the long piece, to create 3 equal planting sections.

Save space in the garden by building this portable salad garden

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3.    Center window screening on outside bottom of frame. Stretch it tautly over frame (a second set of hands is helpful for this), fold excess screening evenly up sides of frame, and staple it to the frame bottom and sides using a staple gun.

4.    Center hardware cloth over the window screening, pull taut, and staple to bottom of frame. Use roofing nails and hammer to nail hardware cloth to bottom of frame for additional support. Use tin snips to cut out each corner of hardware cloth and fold over sides of frame. Secure to sides with staples and roofing nails. Set on sawhorses and prepare for planting.

Planting a salad table

Materials
Seeds of a variety of greens, including lettuce, spinach, mustard, cabbage, radishes, beet greens, mizuna, mâche, and cress
Organic time-release fertilizer or cottonseed meal
Potting mix

1.    Select a level location to set out salad table. Make sure there is easy access to water so plants can be irrigated regularly. Salad greens grow best in full sun in cooler weather. As weather becomes hot, move to a shadier spot, since too much sunlight will make greens bolt or go to seed.

2.    Fill frame with potting mix and create shallow furrows in each compartment about 4 to 5 inches apart. Sow seeds about 1 inch apart and water in well. If plants are too close together, any thinnings can be harvested young and used as baby greens. Most seeds will germinate in 2 to 3 days. Keep soil evenly moist.

3.    Harvest as needed. By cutting some greens with scissors, you should be able to get several harvests from one planting before needing to sow fresh seed.

Excerpted from Cultivating Life by Sean Conway (Artisan Books). Copyright 2009.

How to Design and Build a Toy Chest

Use a Plate Joiner to Assemble a Child's Toy Chest with Glue and Biscuits

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Build a child's toy chest and you'll have something that can be a keepsake as well as a functional piece of furniture. Using a plate joiner and a few simple pieces of hardware will give you a sturdy product that will stand up to whatever wear and tear that your kids will give it over the years.

http://www.ronhazelton.com/article/home/home_other/UDIzNg/How_to_Design_and_Build_a_Toy_Chest_

Step by Step Instructions with Video

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Step
1

emove the sharp edges and corners from the side pieces

It is important, with any piece of furniture that a child may be playing around, to remove any sharp edges or corners. Use a jig saw to cut rounded edges and then use sandpaper to soften the edge of the cut. Use your imagination when planning the design. There are a number of scallops or shapes that can be cut into these side pieces that will give the project your own unique flavor. To ensure that the designs match, clamp both side pieces together and cut them at the same time with the jigsaw.
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Step
2

A Plate Joiner is an ideal tool for assembling the toy chest

A plate joiner, also known as a biscuit joiner, is one tool that you can use to assemble furniture without using a lot of nails and screws. It will allow you to construct a durable, but attractive toy chest that will stand the test of time. If you don't own one, they can be rented at most tool rental centers or home improvement centers.
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Step
3

Transfer the marks for the biscuit cuts from one piece to another

It is very important that the slots you cut for the biscuits line up correctly. If not, then the pieces of your toy chest will not line up correctly when assembled. Mark the center of the slot that is already made with a pencil, and then align it with the piece to be cut next. Transfer the pencil mark onto the new piece and then ensure that the mark is at the center of the cut for the biscuit.
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Step
4

Glue each biscuit into place

A special tip can be added to your glue bottle to make it easier to apply the glue to the slots that receive the biscuits. Once they are in place, the pieces of the toy chest can be pressed together, and then clamped to allow the glue to dry completely. This should take 3 to 4 hours, or the project can be left overnight.
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Step
5

Install the lid

After the 4 sides and the bottom of the toy chest have been glued together and have dried thoroughly, the clamps can be removed and you are ready to install the top. Cleats must be screwed into each side of the chest to act as stops for the lid and to give it additional support. Once these are in place, the piano hinge (which is available at your local home improvement store) can be screwed into place.
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Step
6

Install a closer for safety

The toy chest is now strong, but the lid slams closed with a lot of force and could be dangerous for little fingers. This problem can be solved by installing one or two lid supports to act as closers. The supports are adjustable, so with a simple turn of a screw, you can adjust the amount of force necessary to close the lid of the chest.
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*********************

How to Build an Outdoor Kitchen

http://www.ronhazelton.com/article/outdoors/other/UDIzNA/How_to_Build_an_Outdoor_Kitchen_

Take Your Outdoor Living to the Limit with an Outdoor Kitchen Equipped with a Rinsing Sink, Refrigerator, and Gas Grill

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Build your outdoor cooking area with outdoor kitchen plans that include an attractive weather-proof cabinet to house a rinsing sink, a mini refrigerator, and a gas grill. This design makes outdoor living convenient and permanent. Put your cumbersome wheeled barbecue into a yard sale and let someone else drag it through the grass every time they want to cook/entertain.

Step by Step Instructions with Video

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Step
1

Choose an Outdoor Kitchen Site and Clear Away Obstacles

Save time and money by planning your project in a convenient site that already has a brick/concrete footing. Enable clear access to your outdoor kitchen, removing nearby shrubbery and obstacles such as the sprinkler manifold that we rerouted.
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Step
2

Build a Joist Assembly and Attach a Plywood Platform

Measure and cut pressure-treated lumber to construct a joist assembly. Nail it together as a single unit with a nail gun. Set the assembly in place, level it, and cover it with a plywood platform for the cabinet and appliances.
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Step
3

Raise the Grill to a Convenient Elevation in the Cabinet

Assemble four supports/frames with butted joints and a platform to lift the heavy grill above obstacles to the correct height for the cabinet. In this project, we trimmed and capped the sprinkler pipes and made sure the supports cleared them.
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Step
4

Measure for and Construct Exterior and Interior Wall Frames

Set the grill housing and supports in place temporarily and measure for exterior and interior wall frames. Cut two-by-fours to measure and assemble the frames. Drive nails through the bottom plate into the base platform to secure.
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Step
5

Attach Finish-grade Exterior Plywood Sheathing to the Wall Frames

Cut panels to dimension from finish-grade exterior plywood sheathing to cover the outside surface of the wall frames. Secure them with rust-proof nails and a nail gun.
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Step
6

Position Exterior Grade Plywood as Underlayment for the Tile Countertop

Position 3/4-inch exterior grade plywood as a substrate for the tile counter top. Secure it to the cabinet with screws. Trace the sink template onto the plywood and cut it out with a hole saw and jig saw.
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Step
7

Score Waterproof Cement Backer Board and Secure to Underlayment

Score along measurements marked on waterproof cement backer board. Break it along the score and cut the mesh reinforcement on both sides. Trace the sink opening and cut it out of the backer board. Screw each section to the underlayment.
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Step
8

Apply Nylon Reinforcing Tape and Thinset Mortar to Joints

Reinforce joints in the backer board with nylon mesh/tape and skim-coat the joints with thinset mortar. Spread mortar on the face of the board, using the notched end of a trowel to furrow the mortar. Position and space the tiles.
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Step
9

Force Grout into Tile Joints with a Float

Force grout into tile joints with a float and drag it diagonally across tiles to remove excess. Let the grout dry to a haze and clean off excess with a damp sponge. Clean the sponge and change the water frequently.
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Step
10

Apply Wood Trim to the Edges of the Tile Countertop

Apply wood trim to the vertical edges of the tile countertop once it is dry. Drop in and plumb the sink and install the necessary connections for the refrigerator and gas grill.
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How to Build a Patio from Concrete Pavers

Use Interlocking Concrete Patio Pavers to Turn a Plain Back Yard into a Charming Cottage Patio

http://www.ronhazelton.com/article/outdoors/patios/UDIzMw/How_to_Build_a_Patio_from_Concrete_Pavers_?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_content=ReadArticleLink&utm_campaign=patiopavers

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Build a patio designed with straight or irregular edges using interlocking concrete pavers without rectilinear shapes. The preformed pavers fit together in several different orientations and can transform bare dirt into an attractive and practical backyard patio with coordinated paver edging. Placed on a leveled sand foundation, the patio also requires pea gravel and landscape fabric to prevent weed growth.

Step by Step Instructions with Video

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Step
1

Purchase Materials in Sufficient Quantities for the Patio

Estimate the approximate size of the backyard patio and figure how many interlocking pavers, edging blocks, bags of sand, and bags of pea gravel are required. Purchasing a few extra pavers and blocks is always a good idea.
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Step
2

Stake out the Boundaries of the Backyard Patio

Determine the boundaries of the patio and drive stakes into the ground to mark the dimensions for the patio design. Work around permanent fixtures or obstacles such as pipes, steps, and trellis posts during the paver installation.
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Step
3

Wrap String around the Stakes to Outline the Patio Boundaries

Outline the perimeter of the patio by wrapping string around the stakes. Use strong string with some stretch and pull it taut to make straight lines for the paver design.
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Step
4

Excavate Three Inches Deep for the Patio Footing

Dig to a depth of three inches for the entire patio area within the strings. Use a flat-bladed shovel to make clean edges and a smooth bottom surface to the cavity to ensure a level paver installation.
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Step
5

Tamp the Soil and Slope It away from the House

Ensure the footing/cavity is uniformly three-inches deep and slopes away from the house foundation. When the bottom is uniform, tamp the soil to compact it to prevent subsequent settling beneath the concrete pavers.
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Step
6

Lay down One inch of Leveling Sand Using Screed Rails

Align two lengths of 3/4-inch PVC piping in the bottom of the footing and pour in sand. Drag a screed along the pipes/rails to level the sand. Remove the rails, backfill the trenches, and smooth with a trowel. Repeat.
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Step
7

Align the Paver's Outermost Points to Form a 90-Degree Angle

Lay the first pavers as directed with their outermost points creating a 90-degree angle. Getting the first pavers properly aligned is crucial to keeping the bond for the remaining pavers aligned on the longitudinal and horizontal axes of the patio.
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Step
8

Cut Pavers as Necessary for the Perimeter and Negotiating Obstacles

Trace pavers onto heavy paper as patterns. Transfer patterns to pavers and cut with a circular saw equipped with a diamond blade. Complete the patio to the marked edges and fill in around obstacles such as pipes and steps.
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Step
9

Level Pre-caste Stones to Border Straight Edges of the Patio

Dig a level footer/trench 1.5 inches deep along the straight edges of the backyard patio, add leveling sand, and set pre-caste matching edge stones in place as a border for the concrete pavers.
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Step
10

Lay down Landscape Fabric and Backfill with Pea Gravel

Backfill irregular sides of the concrete paver patio with landscape cloth and a generous layer of pea gravel. The cloth will prevent weeds from sprouting through the pea gravel and will allow moisture to drain through it into the soil.
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How to Build a Wood Arbor for Garden or Yard

View the Video.  Read the Article.

http://www.ronhazelton.com/article/outdoors/garden/UDIyMw/How_to_Build_a_Wood_Arbor_for_Garden_or_Yard__

How To Fix Furniture Without Breaking The Bank

http://szynakameble.com/how-to-fix-furniture-without-breaking-the-bank

Furniture is our most costly home decorating expense, but there are many ways to make your furniture the star of the show, without breaking your budget! Here are my top 5 furniture fixes on a dime!

*Paint. Ok, that’s an obvious one, but did you know you can paint anything these days? Yes, even that hideous laminate bookcase from 1974. All you need is a primer made specially for non porous surfaces. I recommend Kilz Original or BIN primer. A coat or two of good primer, and any surface can be ready for paint, from tile to plastic to fiberglass. Now paint with interior enamel, and you have an ugly duckling transformation in an afternoon!

*Slipcovers. Now making your own slipcovers is possible, there are several patterns available at your fabric store to help you in measuring and sewing them. However, it is no small task. Another option to fixing up worn upholstered furniture is using the art of disguise. Drape a pretty quilt over the back, or cover just the bottom cushions in envelope style covers, in a coordinating color or print. Add throw blankets draped casually over each end of the sofa or chair. Add comfy throw pillows along the length, and by the time you’re done, people will only notice the accessories, not the piece itself. Dining chairs with removable seats can be recovered with fabric and a staple gun, or a small cushion with a skirt can be made to hide the seat and legs. You can make simple slipcovers that look similar to a regular pillowcase to slip over the back of a dinged up ding chair as well.

*Add character. Sometimes our furniture is in good shape, but is simply a bit boring. Add some wood molding or appliqués you can pick up at the home improvement store. A simple line of crown molding along the top of your kitchen cabinets can take them from blah to custom. Change out the hardware…just pick up cheap wood knobs and paint them for a one of a kind look. You can also make your own drawer pulls out of just about anything…old silverware, twigs, even toy cars! Just use your handy drill and attach a screw. Paint the inside of bookshelves an accent color, or add a skirt to a leggy table.

*Add tile. You can sometimes get broken tiles for free from a flooring shop and you can break them further and attach them to a dresser or chest in a mosaic pattern. Add a little grout and you have a one of a kind piece, for next to nothing! You can also just add one tile on the diagonal to the front of each drawer or cabinet front. You can even drill through the tile with a ceramic bit and add the drawer pull right over.

*Finally, consider adding personality and family to your pieces. Cover your scratched coffee table with a sheet of beveled glass, and slip under all your family snapshots. Make photo copies and decoupage them onto your worn out work desktop with some white glue or decoupage medium. Frame your kids masterpieces and attach to your kitchen cabinet doors to add pizzazz.

Remember, it’s not about the size of your budget, it’s what you do with it! Furnishing your house doesn’t have to mean taking out a home loan…use your creativity for one of a kind décor your family will love!

By: Kristopher Mckee

How to Construct a Custom Workbench

   Learn how to build a custom workbench to accommodate a sliding compound miter saw.   A bench like this is practically essential when it comes to making the best use of a saw like this.   To make this version of a bench, we construct four custom sections, one with a lower surface to hold the saw.  The materials include two-by-fours, particle board and Masonite sheets -- the primary tool, of course, is the new saw.

http://www.ronhazelton.com/article/techniques/workshop/UDc1/How_to_Construct_a_Custom_Workbench_

View the Video.  Read the article.

How to Design and Build a Kitchen Island

   Increase your food prep and storage space by using modular kitchen cabinets and pre-made countertops to create a kitchen island.  The addition of a kitchen island or bar will allow you to increase your seating, workspace and storage; without enduring the headache and hassle that often comes with a full kitchen remodel.  The design options are almost limitless, and it's quickly done using pre-made modular cabinets.  This is a simple way to increase the value of the floor space that you already have.

http://www.ronhazelton.com/article/home/kitchens/UDIxNw/

View the Video.  Read the Article.

13 Flooring Ideas That Will Boost the Value of Your Home Spruce up underfoot with these wood, cork, carpet, or tile upgrades and repairs 8 steps to laying engineered wood floors in a day Add warmth beneath your feet with eco-friendly cork tiles Silence squeaky floors, even under wall-to-wall carpeting Remove tough carpet stains, including coffee and wine

            12 Ways to Spruce Up Driveways and Walkways
Learn all about materials, design, and installation so you can get your plans in motion when the weather warms up

Add Belgian block driveway edging to a ho-hum asphalt drive
15 surface options, including concrete, cobblestone, and more
Plan your garden path, from mulch trails to Quikrete slabs
Lay a handsome brick walkway in just one weekend

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If you have any questions or concerns about our online policy or its implementation, please contact us at the following address:
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Easy Fall Fix-Ups

The past few weekends have been filled mostly with Halloween preparations, and soon I'll need to start getting ready for Thanksgiving. This weekend might be the last one for a while when I have time to finish some preventative pre-winter tasks around the house and yard. If you haven't already, now is a great time to get your home ready for the colder temperatures to come. Here are a few things you can do to help get your home ready for fall and winter.

• 10 ways to get your home ready for fall
• 12 things to do in the garden right now
• How to clean a gutter
• Yard-work safety
• Have you started to winterize your home?
• Fall home fix-ups

*********************

How to Construct an Attached Pergola

Learn how to design and build a pergola that's attached to an exterior wall.  Perfect for patio shade.

Get all the instructions here: http://www.ronhazelton.com/article/outdoors/patios/UDgw/How_to_Construct_an_Attached_Pergola

Exterior Projects

http://home.ivillage.com/homeimprovement/0,,7nwsp0fm,00.html?nlcid=hh|05-26-2009|

When the weather starts warming up, a sudden desire to be outside starts creeping into our thoughts. While you are outside, do some improvement projects that will make a big difference in the curb appeal of your home.

1. Whether you design a small, quiet reflecting pool or an elaborate waterscape, a well-planned ornamental pond provides a soothing touch to your landscape. Preformed liners have revolutionized design and scaled down installation, so anyone can create their own personal oasis.

2. Adding or redesigning a plant bed can make a dramatic improvement on your landscape. It's a great weekend project that the whole family can participate in. The possible combinations of shapes and plant varieties are practically limitless.

3. A well-designed landscape will incorporate the following design elements: unity, balance, proportion, variety and diversity. A landscape is a work in progress, you will need to give it time to develop. Layout your landscape with our Landscape and Garden Planner.

4. Whether you've just built a new deck or you're working with an existing one, make your outdoor living space more beautiful and comfortable with a little thought--and a few finishing touches. Just like the inside of your home, furnish and accessorize your deck to really make it come to life. Then it will truly become an extension of your indoor living areas for you and your family and friends to enjoy.

5. Installing a drip irrigation system saves water--up to a 50% reduction--compared to traditional watering. Drip irrigation systems can be used for containers, raised beds, vegetable rows or balcony gardening.

6. If your deck looks a little dingy, cleaning it can help. But to really get your deck in shape, you also need to seal it. Constant exposure to UV rays and rain can cause neglected decks to fade, crack, split and warp. This is a multi-day project, because there is waiting time between the cleaning and the sealing.

7. There are several reasons for putting up a fence: privacy, containment or architectural and aesthetic enhancement of your yard, to name a few. No matter what your reason there's a fence system to suit your needs and your landscape.

8. Rot or decay of the woodwork on your home can result from the exposure of bare wood after paint chips and peels. Damaged woodwork detracts from your home's beauty. But, you can easily repair most blemishes with a little wood filler, some elbow grease and a dab or two of paint.

9. Patience and planning are the most important things when adding a brick patio to your landscape. And it is easier than you think, especially when laid on sand. You will need a helper to complete this project, but you can do it even if you have never laid brick before.

10. Building a deck may not be the easiest project, but the years of enjoyment a deck provides make the effort worthwhile. Most of the materials involved in this project are too awkward for one person to handle, so once construction begins you will need help.

 

These How-To's are provided as a service from Lowe's, the Original Home Improvement Warehouse of How-To information for the World Wide Web. The information in Lowe's "How-To" clinics is intended to simplify jobs around the house. Tools, products, materials, techniques, building codes and local regulations change; therefore, Lowe's assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any project. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply and is urged to consult with a licensed professional if in doubt about any procedures.

Skills that save MONEY

·                                 Master plastic pipe for plumbing projects

·                                 Install vinyl flooring the goof-proof way

·                                 Add electric outlets and switches safely

·                                 Replace a kitchen countertop yourself

·                                 More skill-building tips and projects

The Family Handyman
2915 Commers Drive
Suite 700
Eagan, MN 55121

Adirondack Loveseat Glider Rocker Plans

Filed In:

1.      Woodworking Plans

Download the Free Plans

Adirondack Loveseat Glider Rocker

(c)2009 Chris Baylor licensed to About.com, Inc.

Patio furniture can be expensive. Fortunately, you can put your woodworking skills to good use and build some great pieces of patio furniture for a lot less than it would cost to buy (and you'll have the benefit of knowing just how well you built it!)

In this set of free woodworking plans, learn how to build a Loveseat Glider Rocker based on a very comfortable Adirondack chair design. This glider rocker is very roomy and comfortable for two people, whether you choose to add cushions or sit on the wood directly. The rocking motion is smooth and the wide arm rests are a great place to set a cool drink while you're relaxing.

While this project isn't technically difficult to build, it is time-consuming. Plan on 30-40 hours before you get to the finishing stage, and probably at least 20-30 more for finishing, depending on whether you choose to stain or paint the project. You can build it out of any hardwood or pine. Redwood would be a terrific choice for staining, or poplar if you want to paint the project.

No matter how you choose to finish this glider rocker for two, you'll have a piece of patio furniture that your guests will truly admire!

Download the Free Woodworking Plans to build this loveseat glider rocker (PDF).

Or  http://woodworking.about.com/od/woodworkingplansdesigns/ss/LoveSeatGliderRocker.htm 

How To Repair Sagging Fence Gates: Hanging Fence Gates

This sagging fence gate can be repaired fairly easily.

Mia Amato

problem lies. Whether a fence gate is made of wood or metal, it usually has only three main elements: the posts on either side, which support it; the fence gate panel or a pair of panels, usually framed as an oblong or square; and sets of metal hinges. The hinges attach the fence gate panel to the post and allow it to swing freely open and closed. Most fence gates have one hinge at the bottom and another at the top. If a fence gate is sagging, the problem is usually the supporting posts, the hinge connection or both.

Difficulty: Average

Time Required: One to two hours

Here's How:

1.               Examine both gateposts. Check the gateposts to make sure they are level (perfectly horizontal) and plumb (perfectly straight vertically). One or both of your gateposts may not be exactly upright. You can eyeball this, or use a spirit level for greater accuracy.

2.               Examine the hinges on the fence gate. On fence gates, each hinge is typically attached with two sets of lag bolts. A lag bolt (sometimes called a lag screw) is a steel screw used for wood projects. It looks like a screw, but the top is flat, thick, and hexagonal. Note the size of the bolt — 1/4-inch, 1/2-inch and 3/8-inch are common lag bolt sizes — in case you have to replace one that is rusted or missing.

3.               Disconnect the bottom hinge first. Even if the hinge looks perfectly fine, go ahead and disconnect it by removing the lag bolts with a ratchet or open-ended box wrench.

4.               Now, tackle the top hinge. Partially disconnect the hinge by removing only the lower lag bolt.

5.               Lift and shore up the leaning post. Set stones, bricks or blocks around the post to prop it up to the desired upright position. A spirit level will give you an accurate reading. You may have to dig around the post to reset it or replace a wooden one that has warped or rotted.

6.               Reset the top hinge. Once the post is level, reattach the lower lag bolt on the top hinge. Tighten it securely with a ratchet or wrench. Use blocks or stones to prop the fence gate erect or have a helper hold the fence gate steady and straight.

7.               Next, reset the bottom hinge. Don’t be surprised if you have to reposition the holes in the post: The old holes no longer match up due to wear. Rather than lift the fence gate, your best option is to drill new holes so that the fence gate remains aligned. Moving the hinge just this small amount will correct the angle and prevent the fence gate from sagging. Use a drill to make new holes that are slightly smaller than the screw you’ll use to attach the hinge. For example, use a 3/16-inch drill bit for a 1/4-inch screw.

8.               Replace the lag bolts on the bottom hinge. Tighten all the bolts on the top and bottom hinges and either oil the hinges or spray them with WD-40 or a similar lubricant so the fence gate will swing freely without creaking. Repeat these steps on the other gatepost if necessary.

Tips:

1.               Heavy or long fence gates (such as a wooden driveway fence gates) may need additional support to keep them from sagging again. Installing guy wires — strong metal wiring that attaches fence gates to the tops of their posts — can help keep them level. You may want to check out fence gate wire kits for this purpose; these usually contain all the parts required in a single package.

What You Need:

·                  Spirit level

·                  Ratchet or open-ended box wrench that fits hexagonal (6-sided) bolts

·                  Drill

·                  Replacement hinge or replacement lag bolts if needed

·                  Oil or WD-40 for the hinge

More Landscaping How To's

Budget Decorators Easy Paint Guide

See More About:

• guide to painting your room
• decorating with paint

Your room can come to life with paint

Photo: S Nada

Paint is a budget decorator's best friend. Not only is it relatively inexpensive and available in a mind-numbing array of colors, but it is also very forgiving. If you make a mistake, it can be easily covered up. A weekend of work and the color will give your room a brand-new sense of style.

Choosing a paint color. Today, however, it's easier than ever to choose colors that will work before you try them. First, choose a color scheme based on the color wheel. This will enable you to understand how colors relate to each other. Once you have decided on a color scheme, choose the tones and shades within that scheme that will be most pleasing to you. You can either try large samples on your walls or try the color combination online with a color designer. But most monitors will not give a true representation of the exact color you want to try. But it will give an approximation of the look you are after.

·                  Understanding Color Schemes With The Color Wheel

·                  PQI Color Designer

·                  Using Paint in Problem Spaces

·                  Are You Painting Your Room White?

·                  Red in Large Spaces?

Choosing the right paint and tools. Now that you have chosen a color (you did, didn't you?), the next step is to choose the type of paint and tools to use. You have both traditional and earth-friendly products to choose from and the range of color is equally as good with both types. So if eco-friendly paints are important for your family's health, you can have the earth and the color too!

·                  Paint types Information from Glidden

·                  Use the Right Painting Supplies for the Best Results

·                  Low VOC Interior Paint and Other Healthy Alternative Paints

·                  How to Make A Simple Eco-Friendly Flour Paint

·                  The Right Paint for Summer Projects

How much paint do you need? You have your color and your ideal type of paint, but how much paint do you need for your project? There are several paint calculators online, but I like the one from My Perfect Color.

·                  My Perfect Color Paint Calculator

Adding texture. Now it's time to bring texture to your room. Texture adds interest without adding more furniture or accessories to crowd the room. There are dozens of ways to texturize paint. You can add texture to the paint or you can use paint techniques to bring texture to your wall. In addition, you can use a wash to color your wall with a more layered technique.

·                  Paint Color Washing Techniques

·                  Faux Paint Finishes

·                  Do It Yourself Wall Texture Advice

Preparing walls. Now comes the work! It's time to prepare your room by sanding, filling holes and cleaning.

·                  How to Prepare Your Room for Paint

·                  Preparing Walls and Furniture with Abrasives

Time to paint. Finally, it's time to paint! Just you and a dozen of your best friends - who became your best friends when you offered free pizza for paint.

·                  How to Paint a Room

And if you promise a dessert, maybe they will stay to help clean up.

·                  Cleaning Up After Painting a Room from Do It Yourself

build a pergola
Shade your patio with a classic pergola. Watch the step-by-step slideshow.

http://www.rd.com/advice-and-know-how/photo-slideshow-how-to-build-a-pergola/article107193.html?trkid=ERDA11911

PLUS: Paint faster, better, and less often

·                                 Stop peeling paint in problem areas

·                                 Prep a room for fast work and less mess

·                                 Brush a silky-smooth finish on trim

·                                 Make exterior paint last longer

·                                 More tips for a perfect paint job

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How to Design a Deck

Inside this document you will find information about:

• Deck Design Considerations
• Planning Your Deck

TOOL AND MATERIAL CHECKLIST

• 100' Measuring Tape
• Graph Paper
• 4' Wood Stakes
• Mason's String
• 25' Measuring Tape
• Ruler
• Hammer

How to Build a Deck

BACK TO HOW TO DESIGN A DECK

Once you have determined the basic design of your deck, the next step is to choose your materials. The most common choices are pressure-treated (P/T) lumber (usually Southern pine), redwood, or cedar. As a rule, pressure-treated lumber is the best choice for the substructure; the species you use for the visible parts of the deck will depend on your budget and the look you want.

The span tables in this document will help you determine how much material you need, based on the species you choose. Although there is no such thing as an "average" deck, these instructions assume that your deck is attached to the house, is no more than 6" off the ground, and that there are no special load requirements. All design recommendations below are suggestions only, for estimating purposes. Always check local building codes before determining the final design. All illustrations in this document have been taken, with permission, from the Sunset book, Decks, © Sunset Publishing Corporation.

Inside this document you will find information about:

• Choosing Materials
• Preparation and Layout
• Building the Substructure
• Decking and Railings

TOOL AND MATERIAL CHECKLIST

• Level and Line Level
• Mason's Line
• Ready-mixed Concrete, Gravel
• Shovel
• Structural Connectors
• Adjustable Wrench
• Chalk Line
• 8d and 16d Galvanized Common/Box Nails
• Lumber for Posts, Ledger, Beams and Joists
• Railing Material
• Stain
• 6 mil. Black Polyethylene
• Plumb Bob
• 2x2s and 1x4s for Batter Boards
• Wheelbarrow
• Concrete Piers
• Lag Screws, Hex Bolts w/ Nuts and Washers
• Hammer
• Measuring Tape
• Screws
• Deck Boards
• Framing Square
• Brushes and Thinner

Planning the Perfect Deck

A beautiful, versatile redwood deck can extend your lifestyle and add richness and pleasure to daily living. Equally as important, a deck is a long-term investment because it increases the resale value of your home. Here are some basic planning, design and building tips for the deck of your dreams.

Design

Libraries, book stories and home centers are good sources for deck ideas and plans. CRA also has information on decks and other back yard projects.

Site Planning

Survey the yard and decide which problems the deck should solve. Redwood decks can be built over steeply sloping ground, along a side yard or even in front of a house as an entry. Consider wind direction, the amount of sun or shade desired, the availability of water and electrical outlets and other fixed conditions. Generally, the southwest and southeast corners of a house offer the best combination of sun and shade.

Guidelines

Be sure to check the local building codes and regulations to determine what guidelines and restrictions you must follow. Consult a building professional if the area is to be extensive or the construction difficult. If you decide to do it yourself, you may want to divide a large deck project into small manageable projects, so your building experience, budget and outdoor living can grow each year with your deck.

Lumber

Be sure to choose quality materials. Redwood is a classic for decks because it is great looking, resists weathering and is easy to saw and use. The heartwood grades naturally resist insects and decay. Redwood has no chemical additives and resists warping and splitting better than other woods.

Grades

The rugged, knot-textured garden grades, which are more economical than architectural grades, are ideal for outdoor structures. Choose an all-heartwood grade such as Construction Heart or Deck Heart for applications on or near the ground. The sapwood-streaked grades, Construction Common and Deck Common, for example, are good choices for above-ground uses such as deck boards.

Hardware

A variety of joist hangers, patented connectors and deck fasteners are available to help the do-it-yourselfer. When working with redwood, always use top quality, hot dipped galvanized, stainless steel or aluminum hardware. To avoid splitting, pre-drill holes for nails or screws at the ends of the decking boards.

Finishes

Redwood takes and holds finishes better than most other woods. For long lasting good looks and performance, a quality water repellent finish containing a mildewcide and an ultraviolet inhibitor is recommended For best results, the finish should be applied directly to the lumber before construction covering all sides, edges and ends. A second application is recommended when the deck is completed.

Amenities

After the deck is finished, adding amenities completes the job of individualizing your project and making it a true outdoor living center. Popular add-ons in the '90's include relaxing spas, shade shelters, privacy screens, built-in benches and planters. If you like to entertain,, incorporate a grilling center and service counter. Plant enthusiasts often create a work center for potting activities and storing garden equipment and supplies.

  A redwood deck addition to a backyard corner incorporates a bubbling spa. The simple asymmetrical deck was stained a silvery gray to blend with the house siding. Brick paving and flagstone provide interesting contrasts to the redwood structure.

Many deck solutions in the '90's provide for shelter from the sun. This redwood deck addition includes soaring shade redwood trellises. Built-in benches and surrounding redwood fencing create an private backyard getaway.

  An sloping, unusable side yard area was transformed with a redwood deck addition.
A shady, existing tree was incorporated into the plan. Sparkling white railings contrast beautifully with the cinnamon color of the redwood decking and stairs.

An inviting, low-maintenance backyard landscaping solution is an above-ground pool surrounded by a redwood deck. A series of low steps form a graceful transition to a conversation area. Built-in planter/walls provide privacy and the pleasure of surrounding plants.

Courtesy of the California Redwood Association

IBS: New Building Materials

Wave Laptop Stand

http://www.instructables.com/id/Wave_Laptop_Stand_Making_3D_Shapes_in_Ilustrator/

How To Screen Porch

By Tim Carter
©1993-2009 Tim Carter

http://www.askthebuilder.com/How_To_Screen_Porch.shtml

Summary: A screen porch makes a great place to spend a quiet evening. But before starting your screened porch project, be sure your screen porch design complies with local zoning regulations. Once your plans have been approved, you can begin building a screen porch.

When you see me write how to screen porch, you may wonder if my building skills are as poor as my grammar! Rest assured that I know it should be how to screen a porch, but I’m just responding to the habits of all those who have become addicted to instant gratification on the Internet. People are in such a hurry they just don’t have time to type in an extra letter and a space. It’s crazy but true.

I’ve built my fair share of screened porches over the years. They are really fun projects because they go from start to finish so quickly. Once the rough frame is up and the roof is done, you can have a finished structure in just days. This assumes you had a local mill construct the screen panels for you in advance. Even if you decide to go to all the trouble to make the panels, the time frame is short.

If you are in a rush to get your screened porch built, you may have typed how to screened porch to discover this column. No worries as in just a few short minutes I’ll share some very important tips with you. What you really were searching for was how to screen in a porch. I understand, as I’ve worked for many an impatient homeowner.

There are any number of ways to build a screened-in porch. The classic look is to use wood for the structure and the screened panels. Many camp houses by lakes have these. You’ll see them all over New England at lake houses or camps. But go south and you’ll quickly discover screened porches made entirely from aluminum. Down South the heat, humidity and insects destroy wood like The Who shattered their guitars, amps and drums. Aluminum is simply the better material to use when your faced with wood rot.

As you start to plan your screened porch, the first thing you should to do is make a visit to the zoning and planning office in your town or city. There often are zoning regulations that control the size and how close these structures can be to your property lines. So as not to waste lots of money on plans, make sure you can build the porch onto your home with no or minimal hassle from your government officials.

You may have to get a variance in certain cases to construct the porch. A variance is permission to build when your porch plans don’t meet the letter of the law. Many zoning laws are written that in order to get a variance, you have to prove a hardship in being able to comply with the zoning laws. Simply demonstrate to the officials what your hardship is. You better have a good reason. I know as I used to sit on my village’s Planning and Zoning Board for eight years and attended many a zoning hearing.

To build a screened porch, you’ll have to have moderate carpentry skills and roofing talents. Depending on how many creature comforts you want, you may need electrical skills as you might want lights, a paddle fan and electrical outlets on the porch. Electrical wiring on a screened porch is problematic as you can’t hide the cables in wall studs like an ordinary wall. Seasoned electricians and carpenters know how to bury conduit behind trim lumber on wood screened porches. Aluminum porches can be extremely challenging when it comes to electrical outlets on each wall of the porch.

If you typed how to build screen porch, I knew you weren’t one of those old Hollywood actors playing the part of a native American. What you really wanted to know was how to build a screen porch. Understand that one of the first decisions you have to make is what will the floor of the porch be? Will you have a concrete slab, or will you build your screened porch on top of a wood deck? It can be done successfully on both surfaces.

Keep in mind that you’ll always have to deal with water. As much as you try to prevent it, driving rain will one day make its way into the porch. You need to plan for how this water will make its way naturally back outdoors, without you having to mop it up or use a wet-dry vacuum. Drainage slots need to be engineered into the bottoms of the screen panels, and the floor of the porch needs to always slope ever so slightly to the exterior walls. You surely don’t want water ponding on the floor of the porch.

Remember that a screened porch is not any different than a regular room addition. This means if you live in an area that experiences cold weather, there must be a proper foundation under each of the bearing posts of the porch, and these must be set below the frost level in your area.

Concrete piers used as frost footing must be wider at the bottom than at the top of the pier. Typically, the opposite happens as you dig. Post holes tend to be narrower at the bottom than the top looking like an ice-cream cone. This is a huge mistake because as the frost penetrates down into the soil, it actually pushes the cone-shaped concrete out of the ground. Always make the bottom of the pier hole larger than the top by at least 4 to 6 inches.

Be sure to use high-quality treated lumber as the framing for the porch at least up to the beams that support the roof. You don’t want the posts to ever rot causing the porch to tumble down.

How to Build a Wood Fence

Here are tips and suggestions on how to build wood fences. These tips can save you time, money and effort. Read all suggestions carefully b