Car Care

The site spits back your total miles, the average gas price between locations, and about how much you'll need to spend on gas for that trip. It also uses Google Maps to give you directions, if you need those. http://www.drivepricing.com/

Exotic Car Quiz Exotic cars inspire a legion of car enthusiasts to empty their wallets for a taste of life in the fast lane. Will you be at the front of the pack after racing through the exotic car quiz?

How to wash your car like a pro
It's an old gearhead adage that a clean car runs better -- and you want to impress your family with your nice clean car, right? I visited Mothers, the car-cleaning experts, to learn to wash a car the way the pros do it. Learn how in this step-by-step guide.
- About.com Cars Guide Aaron Gold

How to clean, detail and wax your car
I always recommend putting a coat of wax on your car before winter starts. If you've got a half-day of downtime during your vacation, you can clean, detail and wax your car, restoring its finish and making it look like new. I'll show you how to do it in my step-by-step guide.
- About.com Cars Guide Aaron Gold

Someone did an awesome job putting this together and with sound to boot. At the very end of the video you'll hear the song ' Thunder Road ' sung by the star of the movie for which it was the theme! Not uncommon except this is the one and only song ever recorded, for publication, sung by Robert Mitchum!
http://thefiftiesandsixties.com:80/CarsWeDrove.htm

This 8-part email course reveals 8 car-buying scams and schemes auto dealers don't want you to know about -- and shows you how you can save a lot of money on the car you want.

- When you should absolutely never buy a car (and most people buy at exactly the wrong time)

- Why it's so important not to let the salesperson gain control of the sales process -- and how to easily keep control

- Exactly what you need to know about financing -- especially if you have less than perfect credit... and much, much more!

Internet Movie Cars Database ". . .where you can learn everything you want to about the cars that are in the movies that you love." http://www.imcdb.org/

Most Memorable Cars of the Past Decade

As 2009 comes to a close, so does the decade. From the Hummer H2 to the Toyota Prius, it's been a wild 10 years. We take a moment to reflect on 15 of the most significant consumer cars of the 2000s. Love 'em or hate 'em, these are vehicles you will probably remember for decades to come.

http://www.myride.com/content/shared/articles/templates/index.cfm/article_id_int/6636/id/31599

Replace a Flat Tire in 5 Simple Steps

Driving is usually a pleasurable experience. Cruising through the streets or perhaps the countryside in the comfort lap of your own vehicle can be spiritually rewarding. I know of some people who treat driving as a stress buster. But bad roads and bottleneck traffic-jams can spoil this experience and the stress buster can be major cause for stress if you get a flat tire amidst all of this.

Although it can be sad and disheartening to see a flat tire, there is no need to worry. You can replace a flat tire in 5 simple steps and that too in just 15 minutes.

If your car tire goes flat even in the midst of traffic, here is what you need to do:

Don't panic. You don't have to stop your vehicle immediately. You can pull over to the side of the road away from any traffic and park your vehicle on a leveled surface. Switch on the parking lights / hazard lights in your vehicle and get the spare tire, Car Jack and the Lug Wrench out (usually kept in the boot).

Don't forget to turn off the ignition and keep a gear engaged along with the handbrake.

With the Lug Wrench, start loosening the Lug Nuts on the wheel but don't loosen them completely. Next, fix the Car Jack securely in the groove underneath your vehicle (usually to be fixed in the axle groove or suspension bar) and jack your car up so that the wheel is free and almost 2 inches above the ground.

If you don't know where to fix the Car Jack, refer to the Owner's Manual of your vehicle.

Remove the Lug Nuts and then remove the flat tire. Place the removed tire in the boot of your car. Now fix the spare tire and tighten the Lug Nuts by hand. Remember to tighten opposite Lugs simultaneously. Once the tire is secured, use the Lug Wrench to tighten the Lug Nuts further.

Lower the Jack to lower the vehicle and once the tire is back on the ground, the jack will be released from its groove easily. Use the Lug Wrench to secure the Lugs further.

Now that the spare tire has been fixed, don't forget to keep the Lug Wrench and the Car Jack back in their place and close the boot of your car.

Now you can go back on the road feeling confident that you replaced a flat tire all by yourself. But don't forget to have the flat tire repaired by the mechanic before you breathe easy.

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Quality Auto Parts James Rodham is the Information Architect at http://www.qualityautoparts.com

Reviewing the 2010 Toyota Prius

Toyota's Prius hybrid is, in its own way, the Cadillac Escalade of hybrids. It's an incredibly trendy (although among an entirely different crowd) "segment buster" with the most Green Bling you can find that everyone else is trying to copy. Dealers are having no trouble at all selling every Prius they get at full MSRP sticker price - the current recall debacle notwithstanding.

And of course, that's the big downside: Being green will cost you green - possibly enough to seriously dent the economic returns you might expect to reap by driving this car - though maybe feeling (and looking) green is more important then actually saving green. Let's look at it.

WHAT IT IS

The Prius is the Duke of New York (and "A Number One") of hybrid passenger cars. It was the first mass-production hybrid car, it has been in production longer than any other hybrid (ten years now) and it has sold - by far - in greater numbers than any other hybrid.

Prices begin at $22,000 for the base "II" trim level and run up to $27,270 for the top-of-the-line "V" trimmed version. Its primary competition is the look-alike (or look similar, anyhow) Honda Insight and (to a lesser extent - because they cost much more and don't get nearly as much gas mileage ) the hybrid versions of Nissan's Altima and the Ford Fusion - as well as high-mileage diesel-powered cars such as the VW Jetta TDI.

WHAT'S NEW

Almost everything. The gas-electric drivetrain has been heavily updated to be even more efficient (as well as more powerful), the interior's completely redone and the exterior has been reshaped - though it's still familiar-looking.

WHAT'S GOOD

It's no longer slower than an old lady in an '86 Buick. It can get 50-plus miles per gallon. Improved interior layout. No longer un-fun to drive. You can carry two eight-foot 4x4 posts home from Lowes in one (I did it).

WHAT'S NOT SO GOOD

The Prius is getting pricey - $22k to start, which is two grand more than the similar Honda Insight. Plus, dealers are gouging people because the Prius is so popular. A well- equipped Prius can easily cost close to $30k and that is a lot of money for an "economy" car. A diesel Jetta costs less and gets comparable mileage - and no worries down the road about replacing expensive batteries.

The Prius also has a super annoying buzzer that goes off - and stays on - every time you put the thing in reverse. (More on this below.)

ENGINES & PERFORMANCE

The Prius is a hybrid so it has two sources of motive power - a 1.8 liter gas engine and a pair of electric motors/battery pack. Total output is 134 hp - sufficient to get the fairly heavy (3,042 lbs.) Prius to 60 mph in just over 10 seconds.

Gas mileage is now rated by the EPA at 51 city and 48 highway. Note that these numbers are the reverse of the usual, in the sense that city mileage is higher than highway mileage. This is because unlike regular cars, which are most efficient at steady-state cruise on the highway, a hybrid gets its best mileage in stop-and-go city traffic - chiefly because when it's stopped, the gas engine automatically shuts off, burning no gas whatsoever.

DRIVING IMPRESSIONS

The first thing you notice about the new Prius - if you've had an opportunity to drive the previous Prius - is that the 2010 model is much peppier. The gas part of its hybrid drivetrain now consists of a larger 1.8 liter four-cylinder engine vs. the previous 1.5 liter engine. Total (combined) power output of the gas engine and the hybrid electric motors/battery pack is now 134 hp vs. 110 previously. The power boost gives the new Prius much better driveability outside of the low-speed (45 mph and under) "city" conditions for which it was originally optimized.

The fact is most people have to drive on the highways at least some of the time - and on secondary roads where the flow of traffic is faster than 45 mph. The old Prius may have returned excellent fuel economy, but it struggled to keep up with 70 mph highway traffic and didn't have sufficient power to pull confidently into traffic or pass other cars. The 2010 version has no such difficulties and is noticeably better at speeds higher than 60 mph. I found I had no trouble maintaining 70 mph without the engine screaming for mercy and making me feel like it might spit its pistons through the oil pan at any moment.

Surprisingly, the newfound muscles don't come with a fuel economy penalty. In fact, the 2010 Prius does better at the pump than the previous version: 51 city and 48 highway vs. 48 city and 45 highway for the 2009. (The 2010 Prius' mileage also beats the 2010 Insight's 40 city/43 highway by a very solid margin.)

Part of the reason for this is the counterintuitive (at first, until you think about it some) fact that a larger/more powerful engine can get better economy than a smaller one - if it doesn't have to work as hard. In the old Prius, you often had to keep the gas pedal mashed to the floor just to keep the thing moving. In the 2010 version, you have to floor it all the way much less often - and that means the engine works less hard. Which means it burns less fuel.

The efficiency of the Regenerative Braking system (which uses the vehicle's momentum to recharge the batteries) has also been improved and once you get used to moving the little toggle shifter on the console to "B" when going downhill, you'll enjoy saving your brake pads as you improve your gas mileage.

There's also an "EV" (electric vehicle) button you can depress to operate the car entirely on electricity at speeds up to about 30 mph. This, too, is fun to play with - but not when other cars are around. You have to be very gentle with the accelerator pedal or the gas engine will automatically restart. Still, in stop-and-go driving, you can run the Prius for extended periods without burning any gas at all.

In addition to the EV mode, you can also select "Eco" mode for maximum economy (with the gas engine) at a cost of some performance - or choose "Power" to get maximum scoot.

Another big improvement you'll discover if you drive the 2010 Prius is that it rides like a luxury car. Excellent seats help a lot, but the car itself feels very planted and sure-footed and quiet, too - with impressive high-speed manners. The latter is a quality no hybrid I have tested up to now displayed. You can run 75, 80, 90 mph and it doesn't feel iffy in any way. So now you're at just as much risk of getting nailed for "speeding" as the rest of us!

STYLING & UTILITY

The 2010's exterior (and interior) have both been restyled but the interior re-do is the most noticeable change. It looks higher-rent, for openers, with nicer materials (including a leather-like material for the dash that is not unlike what you'd find in a current Lexus) and a more functional layout for the controls. The toggle-style shifter is still there, but it's now mounted on the upper portion of the center console (more like a regular car) than jutting out of the dash by the steering column, as before. The center console itself is much more attractive - as well as functional. It flows gracefully from the dash, with the central LCD display flush mounted instead of projecting out like an electronic breadbox. The main gauge pod is higher up in the driver's line-of-sight and the cluster itself is larger and more readable. In sum, you feel much less like you're driving a high-tech econo-box.

The tall "box" shape of the Prius and hatchback layout give this car more versatility than you might expect. I was able to carry home a couple of eight-foot 4x4s for a project without difficulty (other than the aggravating buzzer that won't shut up; more on this in a moment).

The Prius also has more roomy/comfortable back seats than its main rival, the new Honda Insight. Total cargo capacity with the back seats down is 40 cubic feet vs. 32 cubic feet in the Insight.

QUALITY & SAFETY

As mentioned earlier, the 2010 Prius comes off more like an entry-luxury car than a car intended to be economical first and foremost. In addition to the upgraded materials and just nicer-looking interior layout, the car comes standard with most power options (including AC and cruise control) as well as keyless ignition and a perfectly decent stereo CD player with MP3 hook-up. You can option out a Prius with all kinds of high-end stuff, including full leather interior, high-end stereo with Bluetooth wireless, auto-leveling headlights, seat heaters, solar roof panels, self-parking system, touch screen navigation system; even 17-inch alloy rims and fog lights - though this will push the sticker price to (or over $30,000) and that level you have to ask yourself whether you're buying this car more to wear green on your sleeve than keep green in your wallet.

The Prius is designed to appeal to people who want the latest in safety gear as well as gas-saving gear - so in addition to standard stuff such as full-row curtain and side-impact air bags, traction and stability control, etc. the 2010 Prius can also be ordered with Adaptive Cruise Control, a Lane Departure Warning System and a Pre-Collision Alert System.

I have no issue with any of the above but I really hated the over-the-top (and impossible to shut off) buzzers that come on when you put the car in Reverse (as if it were a ten-ton garbage truck) or don't close the rear lift gate completely (as when I was hauling home those 4x4s). There should be an "off" button for both. The seatbelt buzzer - which gets more belligerent if you don't immediately "buckle up" for safety - can also make you want to break out a ball peen hammer and start smashing things.

THE BOTTOM LINE

The Prius is an impressive - indeed, downright amazing - feat of engineering. It performs seamlessly and makes you feel as though you are driving into the future. It's an open question, though, whether it makes sense in purely economic terms.

Yes, the Prius saves gas - but does it save you money? What if you bought a Honda Insight instead - and put the $2,000 or so you'd save up front toward the cost of fuel down the road? Or bought a diesel car like the VW Jetta TDI - which gets 40-something miles per gallon (less than the Prius) but is cheaper to buy (like the Insight) and also (being a diesel) should be able to run for 300,000 miles or more (which no hybrid can be expected to do)?

Or how about just buying a three or four year-old 35 mpg-capable economy car for $7,000 or so? The $15,000 price difference "up front" will keep you in "free gas" for the next 10-12 years before you'd even reach the break even point relative to the cost of a new Prius.

So, the Prius is as much about image as it is about economy. In the end, what matters most to you will determine whether it makes sense to buy one.

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www.ericpetersautos.com or EPeters952@aol.com for comments.

Garage Security Tips

As the economy worsens, crime is unfortunately going up. That means your tools, classic vehicles and everything else in your garage are choice targets for thieves. What can you do to avoid being ripped off?

* First and probably most important, be sure you are fully insured - Find out whether your homeowner's policy covers such things as your tools and equipment. A standard homeowner's policy on, say, a $250,000 home may not cover your $20,000 worth of tools. So, re-read your policy - and confirm the details with your agent. It's also a very smart idea to do a full inventory of everything you have - with pictures or video for back-up in the event you do get robbed and need to verify the extent of your loss.

Similarly, be absolutely sure your vehicles - especially antique/collectible vehicles - are fully insured for their specific value (what's known in the business as an "agreed value" policy). That means, simply, if your vehicle is stolen and not recovered, you will receive the previously agreed-upon value listed in your coverage. No haggling after the fact over what it was worth.

Related point: Many of us neglect to update our policies as we update our cars - or as the retail market value of the car changes. If you recently had your car professionally re-painted, for instance, you should make sure your policy/coverage reflects that. Make sure the "agreed value" is up to date - and not based on what the car was worth five years ago, when you first took out the policy.

These precautions will minimize your losses if you do get robbed. But what about avoiding a robbery in the first place?

* Don't flash what you have - Try to avoid leaving your garage door open so that everyone who drives or walks by has a full view of your treasures. Ditto parking your high-dollar antique vehicle outside, where everyone can see it. Try to keep what you have under wraps - and keep a low profile.

* Keep the door locked - This is elementary - yet it's a fact that many thieves never have to break into anything. They just walk right on in - and walk away (or drive away) with your stuff. Use a high quality door lock, plus a deadbolt.

* If your garage has doors with windows, consider replacing them with solid doors - As nice as it is to have a door with an upper glass section to let the sun shine in, glass allows a would-be thief to see inside your place - and getting in is as simple as smashing out the window.

* Install a bright light near your garage - Ideally, one with a motion sensor. The light should be of the floodlight type - and either far enough up or otherwise out of reach that it would take at least a little bit of effort to defeat it by smashing the bulb or some such.

* Consider an alarm system - You might even get a rate reduction on your homeowner's (as well as your classic car) insurance. Or get a fake alarm - dummy closed-circuit cameras or blinking red LED lights near doors and windows can accomplish the same thing (but forget about the insurance discount).* *

* Make your stuff harder to steal - Tools should be secured in heavy, hard to remove/move (and locked) pro tool cases, ideally, cases permanently fixed to hard points such as the floor or workbenches. Locked cabinets bolted to the wall studs work well. Garage doors should have heavy metal lock bars and other such devices to make them extremely difficult to open for an unauthorized user.

Also: There are several ways to discreetly rig a classic car or motorcycle so that it won't start or is difficult (if not impossible) to move. A kill switch wired into the ignition switch and located in a not visible area under the dash. Or just disconnect the ignition coil (or battery).

An eye bolt drilled into a concrete floor provides a secure anchor point for a chain to keep your bicycle (or motorcycle) where it belongs.

And you should always mark your vehicles (as well as expensive tools) with a Dremel tool or some such in a not-visible/hard to access place with some identifying marks - so that if the* vehicle (or equipment) is stolen and found later on, you can prove it is yours.

These are the "majors" - you can probably think of several others, too. The most important thing of all, though, is to be thinking about protecting what's yours. We live in ugly times - and it's best to be thinking a step ahead of those who might try to take advantage of you.

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www.ericpetersautos.com or EPeters952@aol.com

Choosing the Right Tow Bar

What is the one accessory you can add to your vehicle to instantly make it more useful, versatile, and practical? For very little investment, the addition of a tow bar will allow your car or van to pull anything from trailers to caravans and other vehicles. They are usually made of anodized steel and fit unobtrusively under the bumper of your vehicle, increasing not only its practicality, but also its resale value.

Camping, moving, and buying new furniture all become easier when your car or van has one attached. When you can easily attach a trailer behind you, there is no need to worry if everything will fit in the car as you set out on your holiday, or to squeeze your boxes and packages in between the kids in the back seat. Bicycles, recreational vehicles, or any large purchase can be safely and easily towed home when your car or truck has a tow bar.

One of the most popular reasons for adding one to a car is so that it can tow a caravan. This has become popular in recent years due to the low costs involved in holidaying with your own accommodation.

When purchasing a tow bar, look for one that comes with a guarantee, and be sure that it is a good fit for your particular vehicle. Some are rated as being heavier duty than others, so check to make sure you are getting what you need. Additionally, if you are going to be towing heavy items, such as other vehicles, or if you intend to be towing often, you should check your vehicle specifications to ensure that it was design with a towing option in mind. That way, you won't have to worry about your car while you're on the road.

Consider using a mobile tow bar fitting service when adding a tow bar to your car as this will not only be more convenient but will also help reduce the cost due to the lower overheads of the mobile fitter compared to that of a garage or fitting centre.

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J.W Towbars are specialist mobile tow bar fitters covering an area within the Midlands. Free no obligation quotations and advice is available on their website http://www.jwtowbars.co.uk.

The best in proper car maintenance

Car-proud individuals leave no stone unturned so that their cars are always turned out in their Sunday finery. Thus they have trendy stick-ons, upholstery matching the dashboard and carpets where the feet sink. But car maintenance is much more than having a gleaming facade. Car maintenance should be an all-encompassing routine covering both the exteriors and the interiors.

Car maintenance and repair should feature in the daily itinerary of every car owner. Tend to your car daily so that in the long run, you do not have to face major hold-ups or breakdowns. Car maintenance need not be drudgery or an expensive proposition, for there are numerous DIY car maintenance tips that can be practiced with ease and without having to tow your vehicle to the garage.

The one car maintenance tip that you should swear by is the regular checking of the tires. You should replace them immediately if you find any sort of cuts and protruding on them. Unevenly spaced out wears and tears suggest disproportionate tire balance. Rotate the tires every 7,500 miles and pump up the tires only up to the prescribed level.

One car maintenance tip to abide at all times is to lookout for seepages from any part and clogged pipes and mufflers. Always use the recommended varieties of oils and fluids for car maintenance is not a stopgap solution.

As you go about your DIY car maintenance regime, make sure that the antifreeze level always sticks to the norm and that you use only a 50:50 mixture of antifreeze and water.

Jammed brakes are the nuisances of every driver. Ensure that you are not running short on brake fluid but stop short of overfilling.

Transmission fluid, power steering fluid and motor oil checks should be an integral part of every car maintenance and repair regimen. Put the transmission fluid through the rigors of a reality check by rapidly changing gears so that any possible chinks in the armor are exposed. Change the motor oil every 3 months or 3,000 miles.

A highly recommended car maintenance tip is to periodically check the shock absorber by actually putting the car through bumps and grinds. Shock absorbers should always be replaced in pairs.

The windshield washer fluid reservoir should always be full. One oft overlooked car maintenance and repair job is to regularly clean the wiper blades and replace them yearly, if not broken or chipped by then, so that when the skies open up, you are not stuck with rusty blades.

Finally, do not wait for the car to send warning signals. Any car maintenance and repair job might be too late then. Instead, periodically check the belts and hoses, exhaust clamps and supports and replace them whenever deemed necessary.

These car maintenance tips and tricks are not meant to be broken like the New Year resolutions. Go about your car maintenance job diligently. Each car maintenance tip, practiced rigorously will ensure your car looking radiant, running like well-oiled machinery and the engines purring happily.

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David Maillie is a chemist with over 12 years experience in biochemical research and clynical analysis. He is an alumni of Cornell University and specializes in biochemical synthesis for public, private, and governmental interests. He holds numerous patents including his recently awarded patent for headlight repair, cleaner, and restorer. He can be reached at M.D. Wholesale: http://www.mdwholesale.com

Sticking Gas Pedals Aren't Unique to Toyota

Sticking gas pedals are not unique to Toyota vehicles. The main problem Toyota owners are dealing with - loose or out of adjustment floor mats that jam the gas pedal down - can happen with other vehicles, too. If the little tabs that secure the mat in place aren't fitted correctly, the floor mat may slide forward and bunch up near the car's brake and gas pedals, and could lead to "unintended acceleration."

In addition, the cable that connects the gas pedal to the engine can bind and stick, too - especially in older cars. What to do?

* Before you drive off, check to be sure that your floor mats are properly positioned. If the mat is held in place by tabs, be sure they are all lined up and secured correctly. If the mat is not secured in place by some sort of tab or retainer, be sure it at least has a "no slip" underside (for example, rubber pegs to prevent it from sliding around). If not, it's a good idea to replace them with mats that do have this feature (check with your local auto parts store or see online sources such as www.weathertech.com.

* If you are driving along and find the accelerator is sticking, immediately put the gearshift lever into neutral (on manual cars, you can depress the clutch), then use the brakes to slow the car. Pull over and stop as soon as possible. Do not turn off the engine! If you do, the power steering (and brakes) will go away and the car will be much harder to control and stop. And don't worry about harming the engine by placing the transmission in neutral. All modern cars have devices called rev limiters that prevent the engine RPMs from going into the red zone and causing damage.

Once stopped, you can physically check the floor mat to see whether it was bunched up against the gas pedal, causing the problem. Never try to adjust the floor mat while the vehicle is moving.

For Toyota owners: The automaker has set up a special web site - www.toyota.com/recall - and phone number (1-800-331-4331) to assist consumers. If you own a 2009-2010 RAV4, 2009-2010 Corolla, 2009-2010 Matrix, 2005-2010 Aavalon, 2007-2010 Camry, or 2010 Highlander, Tundra or Sequoia, you are affected by the recall. The latest news is that certain Prius and Lexus hybrids are affected by the recall as well.

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www.ericpetersautos.com or EPeters952@aol.com for comments.

Must-See Cars at the 2010 Chicago Auto Show

The largest auto show in all of North America is held in the Windy City, so it's no wonder there's such a variety of new vehicles being shown there. From an all-electric work van and a 20,000-lb.-towing beast to the latest in high-performance muscle and luxury cars, Chicago does not disappoint.

http://www.myride.com/content/shared/articles/templates/index.cfm/article_id_int/8250/id/31722

Jumpstarting Your Vehicle - You Really Should Know How

Jump starting your car: those words strike terror into the hearts of many motorists who have visions of electrocution or getting sprayed with acid from exploding batteries.

But, you don't have to be expert to perform this procedure. You just need to be prepared. Learn the steps and practice--before you find yourself in an emergency situation.

Although you don't have to be an expert auto technician to jumpstart you car, you do need to use some common sense. And there are some risks involved if you don't know what you're doing.

First of all, you need a set of (surprise!) jumper cables. Second, you need an additional vehicle. It's preferable if there's a second person to go along with that vehicle, but it's not absolutely necessary. OK: before you begin, turn off anything that draws power from your car: cd player, lights, heater, etc. Unless you have really long booster cables, the two cars should be facing each other, close enough for the cables to reach from battery to battery. If this isn't possible (say you're stuck facing the wall in a parking garage), pull the second car alongside the dead one, leaving room to maneuver. Pop the hoods of both cars.

The car battery is located in one of the corners: it's pretty easy to spot. You'll notice that the battery has two posts: a (usually) red one that has a positive (+) symbol beside it and a black one with a negative (-) symbol. They should be free of dirt, corrosion and grease.

Now the scariness begins: attaching the cables. There is a specific order in which to perform this delicate operation. It's also very important, once you have your cables in hand, to never let the clamps touch each other. If they do, you could get a nasty shock.

You start the procedure with the dead car. First, hook up the positive cable (it's the one that's not black--most are red or orange) to the positive post of the dead battery (which may also be red). Then attach the black negative cable to the dead battery's negative post.

Next, attach the other end of the positive cable to the positive post of the boosting battery. Attach the black negative cable to the negative post of the boosting battery or to the edge of the engine compartment.

Once the cables are securely in place, start the boosting car's engine. Then, start the car with the dead battery. This is where a second person comes in handy: to rev up the boosting engine if some extra juice is needed. If, at first, the dead car doesn't start, don't despair. Turn the other car's engine off and double check that the clamps are securely attached to the battery posts on both vehicles. If you didn't clean the posts prior to the attempted jump, now's the time to do it. A wire brush, if you have one, is the best tool for removing corrosion (that white powdery substance) and rust from the posts. If you don't have one, use whatever you have handy (screwdriver, rag, hairbrush...).

Try starting the cars again, beginning--as before--with the "live" car. Assuming the "dead" car turns over, remove the jumper cables in reverse order. Note: you need to keep the formerly dead car running for about 15 minutes to make sure it's fully charged. You don't have to sit there for all that time. Allow a few minutes to make sure all is OK, then you can head out. Driving the car will accomplish the same thing, which is charging the batter.

Of course, if your car still refuses to start, then be prepared to sit and wait for help. You do have Triple A, right? And if you don't own a pair of jumper cables (and have them in your car), shame on you!

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For more information on jumper cables, battery boosters and chargers, go to http://www.batterybooster.org/. Don't be caught with a dead battery!

The Backseat Driver's Companion

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People who like to drive rarely enjoy being driven - and are often tempted to second-guess the driving of others when not behind the wheel themselves. Usually, it's not a good idea. Here's a Backseat Driver's Companion - a short list of Do's and Don'ts to follow when someone else is behind the wheel:

* Hold your tongue - You may not like the way someone else drives; maybe they don't notice the light's turned green as fast you might; maybe they're more hesitant than you might be pulling into traffic or merging. Maybe they don't drive as fast as you would like.

But unless there's an immediate danger you're pretty sure the driver hasn't noticed (a kid on a bike about to run across the road, for instance) proper etiquette is to remain silent, even if you're stewing inside. When you're back in your own car again, you can drive how you like. Hectoring those who don't drive as you might isn't going to change their ways; it's just going to create stress - and may even make them drive unsafely.

* Don't second-guess - Maybe you do "know a better way" to get across town - or "just know" the car will fit in that parking spot up ahead that looks pretty tight. Ultimately, however, it's not your call.

It's fine to give advice - if it's asked for. Just don't hector and nag imperiously. You may in fact be a much better driver, know the quickest way to get across town - and could easily parallel park the car in that tight space up ahead. But since you're not behind the wheel, it really doesn't matter, does it? So, grin and bear it. Everyone will be the happier for it.

* Abide by "House Rules" - That means (within reason) doing what the driver asks. It's his car, he gets to lay down the law. If the driver asks you to wear your seatbelt, for example, it's right and proper to do so without complaining - even if you prefer not to wear a seatbelt in your own vehicle. Same goes for smoking, eating and drinking. If it's not your car and you're not driving, deference is the order of the day.

* Don't create distractions - It's unsafe to yak on a cell phone while driving because your attention's not fully focused on the task of driving the car. For the same reason, passengers who distract the driver can be just as dangerous - even more so, since the driver has little or no control over how passengers behave. You can turn off a cell phone; it's virtually impossible to "turn off" a passenger creating a distraction in the back seat. This is a problem for teenagers and young drivers especially. Put a bunch of kids in the backseat - and a kid up front in the driver's seat - and the odds of a distraction-induced accident go up several notches.

Also, if animals are on board, keep them under control. A dog running amok inside a car is another great way to set up a tragic accident-via-distraction.

* Offer to share the driving - On longer trips, it's courteous to make it known you're willing to help with the driving - if the driver wants a break. This should be done in a non-confrontation way. Don't say, "I'll take over now." Say something along the lines of, "Whenever you feel like taking a break, let me know. I'd be happy to drive some of the way."

So long as you're not offering a critique of the other person's driving - and implying you could do a better job - the offer will usually be taken in the right spirit. And there won't be a potentially dangerous test of wills: You waiting for the driver to get tired and slip up (so you can point out the slip-up); the driver adamantly refusing to admit he's getting tired and letting you spell him - just to prove he's a better driver than you think he is.

Top 10 New Car Deals for February 2010

Six more weeks of winter, predicts Punxsatawney Phil. What does this mean to you? Probably absolutely nothing. But besides traditional groundhog-based weather predictions, this February also brings in a good haul of incentives on family sedans and crossovers, a few luxurious rides and a practical compact truck.

http://www.myride.com/content/shared/articles/templates/index.cfm/article_id_int/8241/id/31714

We aren't living in the cushiest of financial times, and most people have locked down their bank accounts. But what if you still need a new car? With the tough economy in mind we've gathered together the ten most affordable new vehicles, all with starting prices at or below a thrifty $13,550.

Tires are designed and built with great care to provide thousands of miles of excellent service. But for maximum benefit, they must be maintained properly.

With the right amount of air pressure, your tires wear longer, save fuel and help prevent accidents. The "right amount" of air is the pressure specified by the vehicle manufacturer for the front and rear tires on your particular model car or light truck. The correct air pressure is shown on the tire placard (or sticker) attached to the vehicle door edge, door post, glove box door or fuel door. If your vehicle doesn't have a placard, check the owner's manual or consult with the vehicle manufacturer, tire manufacturer or your local tire dealer for the proper inflation.

The tire placard tells you the maximum vehicle load, the cold tire pressures and the tire size recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.

If you don't take proper care of your tires, the results can be serious. Most tire companies are either supplying a handbook or are molding a safety warning right onto the tire sidewall. A typical warning is shown.

WARNING
Serious injury may result from tire failure due to underinflation / overloading. Follow owner's manual or tire placard in vehicle. Explosion of tire/rim assembly. Only specially trained persons should mount tires.

As you see, it points out that serious injury may result from tire failure due to underinflation or overloading. Motorists are strongly advised to follow the vehicle owner's manual or the tire placard in the vehicle for proper inflation and loading.

Never try to mount your own tires. Only specially trained persons should mount or demount tires. An explosion of a tire and wheel assembly can result from improper or careless mounting procedures.

If you do mount your own tires, make sure you have the right equipment, the right training and the right information before proceeding. Always use a restraining device when mounting a tire on a rim, and be sure to stay back from the tire when inflating it. Make sure to follow the inflation instructions.

Always replace a tire with another tire of exactly the same bead diameter designation and suffix letters. For example: A 16" tire goes on a 16" rim. Never mount a 16" tire on a 16.5" rim. A 16.5" tire goes on a 16.5" rim. Never mount a 16.5" tire on a 16" rim.

While it is possible to pass a 16" diameter tire over the lip or flanges of a 16.5" size diameter rim, it cannot be inflated enough to position itself against the rim flange. If an attempt is made to seat the tire bead by inflating, the tire bead will break with explosive force and could cause serious injury or death.

Remember, mounting and demounting tires and wheels should be left to skilled professionals who are aware of the safety hazards involved and who have the proper tools and equipment to do the job safely.

Tires must be properly inflated. Use an accurate tire pressure gauge to determine your tire pressure. You can't tell when tires are "low," or underinflated, just by looking. Air meters at service stations may be inaccurate due to exposure or abuse. You should have your own personal tire gauge to be sure. Purchase an accurate tire gauge from your tire dealer, auto supply store or other retailer.

Check tire inflation pressure (including the spare) at least once a month and before every long trip. Tires must be checked when they are cold; that is, before they have been run a mile. If you must drive over one mile for air, before you leave home, measure the cold inflation pressure of each tire and record the actual underinflation amount for each tire.

Upon arriving at the service station, measure each tire's inflation again and then inflate the warm tire to a level that is equal to this warm pressure, plus the cold underinflation amount.

Tires lose air normally through the process of permeation. Changes in outdoor temperature can affect the rate at which your tire loses air. This change is more pronounced in hot weather. Generally speaking, a tire will lose one or two pounds of air per month in cool weather, and even more in warmer weather. Underinflation is the leading cause of tire failure, so check inflation pressure regularly.

Never "bleed" or reduce air pressure when tires are hot. It is normal for pressures to build up as a result of driving.

Make sure all tire valves and extensions are equipped with valve caps with rubber gaskets to keep out dirt and moisture. Have a new valve stem assembly installed whenever a tire is replaced. Underinflation or overloading creates excessive heat, and can lead to tire failure, which could result in vehicle damage and/or serious injury or death. Proper inflation extends tire life and saves fuel. Maintain the inflation pressure listed in the vehicle owner's manual or on the tire placard.

In addition to showing the vehicle manufacturer's recommended cold inflation pressure, the tire placard also shows the maximum load of the vehicle. Do not overload your vehicle. Remember, baggage carried on top of any vehicle counts as additional load.

If you are towing a trailer, remember that some of the weight of the loaded trailer transfers to the towing vehicle. That reduces the load which can safely be placed in the towing vehicle. The only sure way to prevent overload is to weigh, axle by axle, the fully loaded vehicle on reliable platform scales.

Uneven wear patterns may be caused by improper inflation pressures, misalignment, improper balance or suspension neglect. If not corrected, further tire damage will occur.

Most likely, the cause can be corrected at your tire dealer or other service facility. If you find a problem and correct it in time, your tires may be able to continue in service.

Certain uneven wear patterns may indicate that the tire has suffered internal structural damage and requires the immediate attention of your tire dealer.

When the tread is worn down to one-sixteenth of an inch, tires must be replaced. Built-in treadwear indicators, or "wear bars", which look like narrow strips of smooth rubber across the tread, will appear on the tire when that point of wear is reached. When you see these wear bars, the tire is worn out and it's time to replace it.

Inspect your tires frequently. Look for any stones, bits of glass, metal or other foreign objects wedged in the tread. These may work deeper into the tire and cause air loss.

If any tire continually needs more air, have it taken off the vehicle and checked to find out why it is leaking. Damage to the tire, wheel or valve may be the problem.

The way you drive has a great deal to do with your tire mileage and safety. So cultivate good driving habits for your own benefit.

The forces created by a rapidly spinning tire can cause an explosion by literally tearing the tire apart. These forces impact the whole tire structure and can rupture the entire casing. Some vehicles are capable of bringing a tire to this failing point in 3 to 5 seconds.

When stuck on ice, snow, mud or wet grass, the vehicle should be rocked gently back and forth by repeatedly shifting the gear lever from drive to reverse on automatic transmissions, or reverse to second on manual transmissions. This should be done with the least amount of wheel spinning. If that doesn't free the vehicle, get a tow.

No matter how carefully you drive, there is always a possibility that you may eventually have a puncture and wind up with a flat on the highway. Drive slowly to the closest safe area out of traffic. This may further damage the flat tire, but your safety is more important.

Follow the vehicle manufacturer's instructions for jacking up the vehicle, taking off the wheel and putting on the spare. Then drive to a place where the flat tire can be inspected for possible repair or replacement.

After a tire has received a severe impact, such as hitting a curb or pothole, you must have it removed from the wheel and inspected both inside and out for impact damage.

An impact-damaged tire may appear serviceable on the outside, but can fail later after the road hazard injury.

Many late-model vehicles are equipped with temporary spare tires and wheels which are different from your regular tires and wheels. Some may require higher inflation pressure, or the use of special canisters to inflate the tire.

You may operate a vehicle with such a tire within the limits indicated on the tire's sidewall, until it is convenient to repair the disabled tire or replace it with one of the same size designation and construction as the other tires on the vehicle.

Always check the inflation in your spare tire every time you check all the others. A spare tire with no air in it is no help to you in an emergency. If you have an inflatable spare, be sure to check the aerosol air inflation pressure canister to be sure it has not been damaged. If so, have it checked by an expert.

Remember, improper mounting and overinflation may damage the tire or wheel and can result in an explosion that could cause serious injury and death.

Do not depend on tire aerosol sealants and inflators to fix a damaged tire permanently. These products are designed to provide only a temporary, emergency repair to help get you off the road and to the nearest tire repair facility.

Some aerosol products of this type use flammable gases, such as butane, propane or isobutane, as propellants. Follow all directions and precautions printed on the canister when using these products. Be sure to inform tire service personnel that you have used a flammable aerosol to inflate your tire.

There is a close working relationship between your tires and several mechanical systems in your vehicle. Tires, wheels, brakes, shock absorbers, drive train, steering and suspension systems must all function together to give you a comfortable ride and good tire mileage.

An unbalanced wheel and tire assembly may create an annoying vibration when you drive on a smooth road and may result in irregular treadwear.

Misalignment of wheels in the front or rear, improperly operating brakes or shock absorbers, bent wheels, worn bushings and other mechanical problems cause uneven and rapid treadwear and should be corrected by a qualified mechanic. Front-wheel-drive vehicles, and those with independent rear suspension, require special attention with alignment of all four wheels.

These systems should be checked periodically as specified by the vehicle owner's manual or whenever you have an indication of trouble.

A bad jolt, such as hitting a pothole, can throw your front end out of alignment even if you had it checked an hour earlier. Such an impact can also bend the rim, causing a loss of air pressure, and damage your tires with little or no visible external indication.

Sometimes irregular tire wear can be corrected by rotating your tires. Consult your car owner's manual, the tire manufacturer or your tire dealer for the appropriate pattern for your vehicle.

If your tires show uneven wear, ask your tire dealer to check for and correct any misalignment, imbalance or other mechanical problem involved before rotation.

Sometimes front and rear tires on a vehicle use different pressures. After rotation, adjust individual tire air pressure to the figures recommended by the vehicle manufacturer for the new locations -- front or rear -- as shown on the tire placard in the vehicle.

The purpose of regularly rotating tires is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on a vehicle. Before rotating your tires, always refer to your individual owner's manual for rotation recommendations. If no rotation period is specified, tires should be rotated approximately every 6,000 miles.

However, rotate your tires earlier if signs of irregular or uneven tire wear arise, and have the vehicle checked by a qualified technician to determine the cause of the wear problem. The first rotation is most important.

Your tire contains very useful information molded into the sidewall. It shows the name of the tire, its size, whether it is tubeless or tube type, the maximum load and maximum inflation, the important safety warning and much other information.

Here is information about the sidewall of a popular "P-metric," speed-rated auto tire. "P" stands for passenger, "215" represents the width of the tire in millimeters; "65" is the ratio of height to width; "H" is the speed rating; "R" means radial; and "15" is the diameter of the wheel in inches. Some speed-rated tires carry a Service Description, instead of showing the speed symbol in the size designation. The Service Description, 89H in this example, consists of the load index (89) and speed symbol (H).

The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test track.

A tire graded 200 would wear twice as long on the government test course under specified test conditions as one graded 100.

It is wrong to link treadwear grades with your projected tire mileage. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use and may vary due to driving habits, service practices, differences in road characteristics and climate.

Traction grades, from highest to lowest, are A, B and C. They represent the tire's ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete.

The temperature grades, from highest to lowest, are A, B and C. These represent the tire's resistance to the generation of heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel.

IMPORTANT: Always check the vehicle manufacturer's recommendation before replacing a tire with a different size and/or construction.

When buying new tires, be sure your name, address and tire identification number are recorded and returned to the tire manufacturer or its record-keeping designee. Tire registration will ensure that you will be notified promptly in the event the tire manufacturer needs to contact you.

When tires need to be replaced, don't guess what tire is right for your vehicle.

For the answer, first look at the tire placard. As you will see, that placard tells you the size of the tires which were on the vehicle as original equipment.

Tires should always be replaced with the same size designation, or approved options, as recommended by the automobile or tire manufacturer. Never choose a smaller size, with less load-carrying capacity than the size on the tire placard. Always have tires mounted with the same size and construction designations on the same axle. It is recommended that all four tires be of the same size, speed rating and construction (radial or non-radial). However, in some cases, the vehicle manufacturer may require different-sized tires for the front and rear axles. When two radial tires are used with two non-radials, put the radials on the rear axle.

Some tires are now marked with letters to indicate their speed rating, based on laboratory tests which relate to performance on the road. Tires may be marked with one of eight speed symbols, M, S, T, U, H, V, Z or W, to identify the particular tire's speed rating.

When replacement of tires is required, consult the vehicle manual for proper size and speed rating (if required).

If the vehicle manual specifies speed-rated tires, the replacement tires must have the same or higher speed rating to maintain vehicle speed capability.

If tires with different speed ratings are mounted on the same vehicle, the tire or tires with the lowest rating will limit the tire-related vehicle speed.

Tire speed ratings do not imply that vehicles can be safely driven at the maximum speed for which the tire is rated, particularly under adverse road and weather conditions, or if the vehicle has unusual characteristics. Never operate a vehicle in an unsafe or unlawful manner.

Tires should be of the same size, construction (radial, non- radial) and speed rating, unless specified otherwise by the vehicle manufacturer. Tires influence vehicle handling and stability.

Match tire size designations in pairs on an axle (or four tires in dual application), except for use of a temporary spare tire.

If radial and non-radial tires are used on a vehicle, put radials on the rear. If radial and non-radial tires are used on a vehicle equipped with dual rear tires, the radials may be used on either axle. Never mix radial and non-radial on the same axle except for use of a temporary spare tire.

Snow tires should be applied in pairs (or as duals) to the drive axle (whether front or rear) or to all positions. Never put non-radial snow tires on the rear if radials are on the front, except when the vehicle has duals on the rear. If studded tires are used on the front axle, they must also be used on the rear axle.

Every time the outside temperature drops 10 degrees Fahrenheit, the air pressure inside your tires goes down about one or two pounds per square inch.

You should check your tire pressures frequently during cold weather and add the necessary air to keep them at recommended levels of inflation at all times.

Never reduce tire pressures in an attempt to increase traction on snow or ice. It does not work and your tires will be so seriously underinflated that driving will damage them.

If one of the drive wheels becomes stuck, the centrifugal forces created by a rapidly spinning tire can cause an explosion by literally tearing the tire apart. Never exceed the 35 mph indicated speedometer speed or stand near the spinning tire.

If your vehicle is stuck and a tow truck is not readily available, gently rock your vehicle back and forth, repeatedly shifting the gear lever from drive to reverse on automatic transmissions, or reverse to second on manual transmissions, while applying gentle pressure to the accelerator. Caution: If you have an anti-lock braking system (ABS) in your car, follow the operational instructions in your owner's manual.

In snowy areas, many cities and counties have "snow emergency" regulations which are invoked during heavy snowfalls. Check with authorities for the rules in your area. Under some rules, motorists are subject to fines if they block traffic and do not have snow tires on their vehicles.

You can avoid this by equipping your vehicle with snow tires marked with "MS," "M&S," and "M+S" on the sidewall. The letters "M" and "S" stand for mud and snow.

If you change to snow tires, be sure they are the same size construction type as the other tires on the vehicle.

Snow tires should be used in pairs (or as duals) on the rear axle or on all four wheel positions. If purchasing 2 new tires it is recommended that you install them on the back of the car. If you install a high traction tire on the front drive axle, you are leaving the lighter end of the vehicle (the rear) with no traction improvement. Most tire manufacturers recommend that front wheel drive vehicles have all four tires of equal traction. In all cases, install new tires on the rear axle. If your front tires lose grip first, your vehicle will tend to lose control by going straight, even in a turn. This is understeer, which can be controlled by slowing down and steering in the direction of the turn...this will allow your car to come back into line. But if the rear tires lose grip first, your vehicle, could spin, which is oversteer and more difficult to control, this requires you to make quick, precise steering corrections in the opposite direction of the turn, not a natural reaction. It is easier to control understeer than oversteer.

In areas where heavy snowfalls are frequent, many drivers carry chains for use in emergencies, or have their tire dealer apply studded snow tires. When studded snow tires are mounted on the front axle, studded tires also must be placed on the rear axle. Most states have time limits on the use of studs or ban them altogether. Before installing studded tires, check the regulations in your area. If you use chains, make sure they are the proper size and type for your tires, otherwise they may damage the tire sidewall and cause tire failure.

When you have a question about tires, or a problem, consult your tire dealer. The dealer is the best source of general information and professional service on tires.

Your dealer has service manuals, wall charts and other industry publications on tire load and inflation, tire repair and tire replacement. Your dealer can provide you with the replacement tires your vehicle needs, balance your tires and repair damaged tires which are repairable. Let the dealer inspect your tires periodically and diagnose any problem you may have.

When you discover a tire losing air, it must be removed from the wheel by an expert for complete internal inspection to be sure it is not damaged. Tires run even short distances while severely underinflated may be damaged beyond repair.

Punctures up to 1/4 inch, when confined to the tread, may be repaired by trained personnel. These tires must be removed from the wheel, inspected and repaired, using industry-approved methods which call for an inside repair unit and a plug.

A PLUG BY ITSELF IS AN UNACCEPTABLE REPAIR. The repair material used - for example, a "combination patch and plug" repair - must seal the inner liner and fill the injury to be considered a permanent repair. Never use a tube in a tubeless tire as a substitute for a proper repair.

Individual tire manufacturers may differ on whether the speed category applies to speed-rated tires that have been repaired. Consult the tire manufacturer for recommendations.

Injuries larger than 1/4 inch must be referred to a full service repair facility. No repairs to the sidewall of a tire should be made without consulting the tire manufacturer. After a tire has been repaired, check for leaks or other damage not detected at the time of repair. Improper repairs can cause sudden tire failure.

Air loss due to punctures can ruin tires that might have been saved had they been removed in time for proper repair. Gradual air loss raises a tire's operating temperature. This can cause some of the components to separate, or damage the tire body in ways that create rapid or sudden air loss.

Such internal damage may not always be readily apparent, and rapid loss of air may still occur despite later installation of a proper repair.

Tires should be stored upright and in a dry, cool place, away from sunlight and sources of ozone, such as electric motors.

However, if you must store tires flat (one on top of the other), make sure you don't stack too many on top of each other. Too much weight can damage the bottom tire.

Also be sure to allow air to circulate around all sides of the tires, including underneath, to prevent moisture damage.

If storing tires outdoors, protect them with an opaque waterproof covering and elevate them from the ground. Do not store tires on black asphalt, other heat absorbent surfaces, snow covered ground or sand.

Must-See Cars at the 2010 Detroit Auto Show

The 2010 auto show season promises to start with a bang at the North American International Auto Show in Detroit. The Big 3 have pulled out the big guns, with stunning displays and a whole slew of important new cars and concepts. We bring you the best of what the automakers are showing in Detroit.

http://www.myride.com/content/shared/articles/templates/index.cfm/article_id_int/6641/id/31632

Tips and Advice on Car Buying

http://productivegeek.com/forums/topic/tips-and-advice-on-car-buying

1. Can you afford it? Review your finances and find out what you can afford. Know your budget. Not the fun stuff, but this can make you or break you.
2. Know your credit score!!! This will determine what kind of kick ass or crappy financing you’ll get and this too can make you or break you.
3. Time of year. Yes, it’s true; you will get better deals at the end of the month and end of the year. The sales biz is all about meeting quotas and the pressure comes a-knockin’ at month end and year end and you can benefit from this.
4. No emotional attachment. Don’t get excited. Don’t goo goo gaa gaa over the car… it will end up costing you.
5. Sex matters. If you are a female, take your husband, brother, father, guy friend with you. Unfortunately, if you are a female, then you may end up paying more.
6. Go in there loaded and walk out (not drive out).
a. Comparison shop. Go in there loaded with information about the car and make it known that you have checked out other dealers.
b. Straight Shooter. Related to the above, go in there, be upfront and let them know you are ready to buy and that you have shopped around (be specific about which dealers). Be generally specific about the car that you want and put it on them to give you the best price. While you want to be clear about the car that you want, you don’t want to corner yourself in so make it clear that you are open to multiple options.
c. Walk out. Give them your contact information and walk. Yes, leave. Let them work you back in the dealership with a great deal and not just a mediocre deal.
7. Try not to commit to the deal before negotiating. How does this happen, you ask? The sales person will ask you question after question and it’ll go something like this:
Sales person: Sir, you said wanted a white SUV, fully loaded?
You: Yes
Sales person: So you like the tan leather interior, right?
You: Yes
Sales person: Can we deliver today?
You: Yes
Sales person: So the most important thing to you is the monthly payments?
You: Yes
Don’t do this. You are trapping yourself and committing yourself to the deal without even knowing it.
8. Don’t be lame and nitpick over small details. There is nothing worse than haggling over $50 bucks. Don’t do that. Negotiate smart.

At the end of the day, the concept of a “good deal” is unique to each person and dependent on each person’s expectations and situation. So, go in there loaded with information about the vehicle that you want and do your research by comparison shopping. Your expectations may change and you will benefit as you load up on information. Otherwise, you may walk away paying $100 less than the sticker price on that Benz and think that you got a great deal ;-)

Winter Car Tips and Tricks for Easier Winter Driving

Winter is a tough time of year where vehicles are concerned. Iced windshields, frozen locks, and getting stuck in mud and snow are all too common winter automotive realities. Follow these simple tips and tricks to make winter driving life a little easier.

(This is a guest article by Paige Green*)

Whether it’s your first car or you’re tenth, we are all prone to some rather basic mistakes when it comes to making the decision to buy. After all, a car is emotive and appeals to some basic primal need we seem to have for things that are shiny and go very fast. (Historically, our great great grandparents were probably suckers for a speedy horse with a well groomed coat). Unfortunately for our ancestors, they probably didn’t have the same access to information that we currently do, so there was nothing they could do if their prize pony turned out to be a training nightmare. Learn how you can avoid the pitfalls of car financing and purchase by arming yourself with information.

Seven Ways NOT to buy a Car

Falling in Love and getting blindsided

Your perfect vehicle, it looks great, drives like dream and you’ll be the envy of all your peers – if you have your heart set on the car of your dreams – STOP! This is one of the most obvious traps of car buying, especially if you’ve spotted the love of your life in a dealership parking lot. Becoming blindsided and committed to a particular vehicle without first determining the implications of the purchase can mean you’ll be drowning in heavy debt or be bound to particularly unfavourable terms.

Not doing your Research

The decision to buy a car is not a light one and before you step into a dealership or start considering internet auctions, you need to do your research and find out what sort of vehicle will suit your needs. Consider your lifestyle requirements as well as your budget and financing options. Don’t forget to account for the future, if you’re not sure what your situation will be like in five years, you might not want to commit to a vehicle that’ll lock you into a particular style of living for the long term.

Buying and Borrowing out of your Budget

If you’re looking at financing options, it’s tempting to borrow up and “get something you really want”. Remember that defaulting on your monthly payments will seriously affect your credit standing and will have a substantial impact on any future financing. Remember to also consider depreciation costs and other factors that will affect the final value of your vehicle and your assets.

Not looking into finance

When you walk into the lot, the dealer usually offers you instant dealer finance to help you with your purchase which always seems tempting since there’s no lengthy and nervous waiting time that comes with bank loans or the unsettling and embarrassing possibility of rejection. The problem is that without doing your research and considering all of your car financing options, you can end up paying exorbitant fees and higher rates in the long run.

Not test driving

As internet auctions become more prominent, it’s sometimes too easy to just purchase a vehicle based on the owner’s description and not actually doing an in person inspection, especially if the seller is out of state etc. It’s hard to get the information you really need to ensure that a car’s performance measures up to the promised description.

Not Doing a Thorough Inspection

Do your own check for oil (you want to make sure it’s clear and not dirty) and look for any signs of water damage as this could lead to expensive problems in the future even if the vehicle is running great now. When buying a used car, it’s best to consider getting the vehicle inspected by a professional mechanic. For a few extra bucks, it’s worth it to hire a mobile inspector to visit the site and do a quick on the spot check to make sure the car is in good working order. Alternatively, bring along a friend who knows about vehicles.

Not Getting a History Check

By running the Vehicle Identification Number (located on the driver’s side dash or in the door jamb) through vehicle check, you can obtain the full history of your car and find out if it’s been in any accidents or has any outstanding debt attached to it. Don’t take a seller on his or her word, but arm yourself with the necessary information to be a wary buyer.

*About the author: Paige Green hails from the Land Down Under and is an expert at driving on the left side of the road. She waits eagerly for Lemon Laws to be introduced there and also writes for Australia’s leading experts in car finance.

(This is a guest article by Karen Schweitzer*)

Car dealers are working very hard to make sure that auto sales rebound over the winter season. And while it may seem like the ideal time to buy a new car, there are a few things you should know before you get an auto loan:

*About the author: This is a guest post from education writer Karen Schweitzer. Karen is the About.com Guide to Business School. She also writes about online degree programs for OnlineDegreePrograms.org

Just as it's necessary for us to put on a coat and gloves in cold weather, our cars need a similar kind of attention to function at their highest potential. Check out the best ways to winterize your car.

This is a list of things which everyone can do while driving to have a dramatic impact on traffic. Mostly they’re the same things people are taught in driver’s ed class. They can have a very real and demonstrable impact on traffic conditions, particularly on the massive expressways, parkways, and turnpikes of large cities.

You know you’re the best driver on the road; just like me and everyone else. In a way driving defensively means you assume everyone else is a little slower to react, a little more distracted (like the young lady above), perhaps even a little stupider. Since you can’t control how smart or quick someone else is, all you can do is be as responsible as you can for your own piece of road. It’s more of a philosophy than a single skill. The goal is to keep the flow of traffic smooth by not giving the other drivers anything to react to, and giving yourself ample time to react to anything else.

Cruise control is one of those things that works best when everyone uses it. If the person in front of you is having a hard time maintaining a steady speed then it’s going to be impossible for you to keep a reasonable distance and a constant speed if you can’t go around him. Same for the guy behind you and the guy behind him.
Because you’re not having to use your foot to maintain speed you’re better prepared to react by braking should the need arise. Just don’t let not having to work as hard cause your mind to wander.

So you’re going down the highway and there’s construction ahead—two lanes go down to one. Two things cause the congestion at the merge; drivers in the through lane fighting to not let anyone in, and driver in the blocked lane trying to race to the front of the line. It’s a vicious cycle; drivers cheat often times because they can’t find a gap in the through lane cars. Drivers in the through lane often close the gap to keep cheaters from getting in.

There’s no way to really prevent some measure of congestion when the same number of cars try to fit onto less road, but drivers can minimize congestion by moving over into the through lane early then leaving enough space ahead of them for other drivers to merge as well.
This is one instance where the way you’re driving can have an effect on traffic far ahead of you.

A reasonable distance between you and car ahead depends a lot on how fast you’re going. Some drivers are taught to keep a car length for every 10 miles per hour. More common these days is the ‘two second rule’ which states you should keep two seconds between you and the car in front of you. Pick a spot on the road, a signpost or other marker. Two seconds should elapse between the time the leading car passes the mark and the time you do. As your speed increases so does the distance which can be covered in two seconds. At 60 MPH (96.5 KPH) this is 176 feet (53.6 m).

Reaction time isn’t worth a damn if you aren’t capable of reacting. Aside from intoxication or distraction, a major driving impairment is fatigue or boredom. Even if you aren’t sleepy or tired your mind can still drift away from the act of driving. Try not to look at any one thing for more than two seconds. Alternate between focusing on the road ahead and other things important to driving such as the speedometer, the gauges or the rear view mirrors. When you look away from the road don’t look at anything for any longer than it takes to actually get the information before looking back up the road… two seconds at the most.

If all you focus on is the car in front of you then you will only have however long it takes to drive the distance between you if something happens. By paying attention to what’s going on as far down the road as you can see you give yourself a better chance of seeing and reacting to whatever the car in front of you will be having to react to. Try to predict what the cars in front you will have to do… will the guy in the tricked out Nissan slow down or will he pass the old lady in LTD on the shoulder? Plan ahead what you would do if something goes wrong based on what you see down the road.

Remember we’re trying to keep the flow moving slowly. If you do have to change lanes you want to do it without causing other drivers to have to react quickly to your lane change. If you’ve ever wondered what those mirrors on the sides of your car are for, they’re for looking to see if there’s anything in the way. Mirrors are great, but I’ve never seen a car that didn’t have massive blind spots on both sides behind the driver that the mirror can’t see. Giving a quick glance over the shoulder will let you know if you can change lanes without running someone else off the road.

If you’re the type of driver that does the posted speed limit, no matter what the ‘real’ speed limit is then the thing you can do stay in the right lane. And by ‘right’ lane I mean correct. In America it’s to the right, and this time by ‘right’ I mean ‘not the left’. By doing this you minimize the disruption to the flow caused by faster cars having to merge into other lanes to go around you. This helps keep the over-all flow of traffic smooth.

If some asshat comes up behind you flashing his lights and following so close that you can see the clenched white knuckles on the steering wheel just merge to the right if you can and let him go. He’s a disruption to the flow of traffic as well as a jerk. He likely will leave waves of congestion in his wake, but the further he is from you, the less dramatic his effect will be.

To paraphrase the late great George Carlin, “ever notice how everyone driving faster than you is a maniac and everyone driving slower is an idiot?” The real speed limit is defined by the car in front of you. The best way to keep traffic flowing is to flow with it. If everyone on the road is doing a nice smooth 70 mph the one guy doing 55 is going to disrupt that flow in at least two lanes; the lane he’s in and the lane(s) the drivers behind him have to merge into to go around him.

By the same token the Cannonball Run wannabe doing 20 mph faster than everyone else will have to weave in and out of traffic to maintain that speed. Not only is he not likely to make up much time but he’s going to cause drivers all around him to react as he changes lanes. I realize that I am endorsing going faster than the posted speed limit just because everyone else is driving that fast, but it really can contribute to safety.

It’s been proven that tailgating is the main cause of the ‘phantom’ traffic jam. You know the kind where all five lanes of road choke to a crawl for miles, and then about the time you expect to be passing a bloody 18 car pile-up all the cars ahead of you just evaporate without cause. Chances are really good it was caused by tailgating ahead of you. The concept is so simple it can be demonstrated with as few as three cars, all following close to each other. If the car in front taps on its brakes just for an instant, the second car has to brake harder to avoid a collision. The third car has to over-brake even more, practically coming to a stop. A few seconds later the tailing cars return to their previous speed like nothing happened. Now imagine that same scene multiplied 10,000 times.

Phantom traffic jams travel against the flow of traffic in massive waves which can be observed from the air, or if the road conditions are right they can be seen moving toward you. Distance equals reaction time. If everyone kept enough distance to give them enough reaction time the cars in the back wouldn’t have to jam the brake pedal to the floor. Space between the cars breaks up the wave, essentially robbing it of its energy.

Keeping some distance also gives you a better view of what’s going on ahead of the car in front of you. You have a better chance of seeing what it is the car in front of you will have to react to if your windshield isn’t filled by the tail end of the car ahead.

They may look similar from the outside, but there are many significant under-the-hood differences between an electric-powered car and a car that makes use of an internal combustion engine. How much do you know about electric cars?

21 Must-See Debuts at the 2009 Frankfurt Auto Show
Do you want to see jaw-dropping exotics, mind-bending concepts, and a handful of everyday, not-so-remarkable cars you can possibly afford too? Well it doesn't take a trip to Frankfurt to see the best cars on display there this week as part of the 2009 Frankfurt Auto Show. No, we've gathered 21 must-see debuts in one gallery to save you the Lufthansa airfare, which you can use towards a downpayment on an Aston Martin Rapide (see above).

http://www.myride.com/content/shared/articles/templates/index.cfm/article_page_order_int/1/article_id_int/6582/id/30631

Custom cars made for TV were unique creations. Cars such as the Batmobile were usually built from pre-existing concept vehicles like the Lincoln Futura. Learn more about the Batmobile the Green Hornet's Black Beauty and the Monkeemobile.

Ah yes, Detroit muscle. American automobile ingenuity at its finest. I’m talking 1960s era Chevys, Fords, and Mopars, and I’m talking ones that go fast. Ok, I expect the typical Listverse flak about this list being “too American”, but cry me a river. If someone wants to do a European Sports Car list, more power to ya, but these machines are my idea of heaven on four wheels.

This is of course not a definitive list but before you comment, please note: you’ll find no pony-cars here, my friends. Maybe I’ll do a follow-up list of Camaros, Mustangs, etc. if this one is well received, but for this one I wanted to profile the more humble looking street machines. And sorry, I love ‘em, but in my world ‘vettes are “sports cars”, not muscle cars, so that marque is likewise omitted. And so without further ado, here are ten of my favorite muscle machines, right down to specific model-years that are of special appeal to collectors and enthusiasts. And yes, they are in no particular order (well maybe slight consideration) so don’t obsess about the ranking.

Chevrolet’s famed 409 engine was immortalized in the 1962 Beach Boys song of the same name, and was the desire of many muscle car enthusiasts in the early 60’s. In ‘62 the hot set-up was to order the 409 in the lightweight “bubble-top” Bel Air 2-door hardtop. Well, kicking it up a notch in 1963, Chevrolet introduced the Z11 option package for its Impala line. The package included a modified 409 increased to 427 cid by way of a stroked crank, and had special heads, valves and a two-piece aluminum intake manifold sporting dual quads. Output was rated at 430 hp. The additional Z11 features were not limited to the engine compartment however, as the hood, fenders bumpers and other items were made of aluminum to lighten its overall curb weight. This was a RPO (regular production option) package supposedly available to the general public, but appears to have only been selectively sold to racers with the intent of furthering Chevrolet’s cause at the drag strip. No matter, the ‘63 Impala SS with a standard 425 hp 409 was plenty fast for the average joe, regularly turning sub-15’s in the quarter mile. Only 50 or so (qtys vary by source) Impala Z11s were sold in 1963, and there are 7 known to be still in existence today.

Fomoco’s answer to keep pace with the lighter and faster Chevys and Mopars of the day was to cram its biggest motor, the big-block 427, into one of its smallest models, the mid-sized Fairlane 2-door coupe. Major front-end frame modifications were needed to accomplish this, as well as a large hood bulge necessary to accommodate the hi-rise manifold and twin fours, with air induction routed through dummy headlight openings in the grill. But nonetheless it was a factory-produced car available to anyone from their local dealership, listing at $3,750. Even so, it was purely designed for racing, with plexiglass windows, fiberglass body panels, and a spartan interior that lacked armrests, sun-visors, mirrors, sound-dampening insulation, and was radio- and heater-delete. Imagine those kinds of shortcuts in comfort and especially safety features being allowed in this day and age. Truth be told, the Thunderbolt was not really suitable for everyday use. Perhaps that’s why only 100 T-bolts were sold in 1964. But beware; these cars could pull down mid 11s in the quarter mile!

It is easy to forget that muscle cars (and cars in general) in the U.S. weren’t limited to the “Big Three” automakers. In 1969 American Motors Corp. joined forces the well known parts company Hurst Performance and surprised everyone with the SC/Rambler (aka “Scrambler”). The SC stood for “stock-car”, but this was a race-ready production vehicle. Maintaining the typical small-car-big-engine strategy, AMC stuffed their 390 cid 315 hp V8 power-plant into its light-weight Rambler Rogue hardtop coupe. This car could hold court with many of the more popular machines of the day, as stock vehicles regularly turned low 14s at the strip. No options were available (except an AM radio), which kept the price below $3,000. All cars had plain grey vinyl interior with bench seats and red white and blue headrests, carpeting, and a Borg-Warner 4-speed with a Hurst shifter. But perhaps the car’s most striking feature was its bold paint scheme and a large, functional “Ram Air” induction hood scoop. The first 500 units all were a base white with a wide red side panel running the length of the car, and had a blue stripe running front to back across the top of the car. An arrow graphic pointed towards the scoop and lettering noted the engine size. Additionally striking were the blue two-toned mag wheels. When these cars quickly sold out, AMC released a second batch of 500, this time with “B” trim, which was mostly white with narrow red and blue side stripes. A third batch of 512 units was later released which are thought to have gone back to the “A” trim, though this is a source of controversy among enthusiasts, as vehicle VIN codes do not differentiate between the two paint schemes. What is known is that of the total 1,512 SC/Ramblers built, the majority of surviving examples today have the “A” trim. The SC/Rambler is perhaps one of the least remembered muscle cars from the era.

Sleek “coke-bottle” body styling and a mean-looking black-out front grill with hidden headlights sets the Dodge Charger apart from the competition. The R/T (road/track) designation is what Dodge used to denote a car equally suited for street performance or drag racing. Heavy duty suspension provided superior handling (compared to the typical muscle car), and with a powerful 375 hp 440 Magnum V-8, this car ran the quarter-mile in just under 15 seconds, and listed for about $3,500. Not good enough? R/T Chargers with a Hemi under the hood (only 475 produced) would cost you an extra $600, but dropped that quarter time down to the mid 13s. A total of 96,100 Chargers were built in 1968, with 17,000 of them having the R/T designation. Fans of the 1968 movie Bullit might recall that Steve McQueen’s nemisis drove an awesome black 440 Magnum R/T Charger in perhaps one of the best chase scenes ever put on film. You can watch it here.

Officially, these are known simply as Cobras, according to period Ford advertising and sales brochures, and more importantly, the dealer winder-sticker. Really though, these are Fairlanes, as the Torino designation was an option package for the Fairlane body-code and was not yet a separate model line in 1969. Sometimes also referred to as the Torino GT or Fairlane Cobra, this naming convention generates some debate in collector circles. This line featured two body styles: the hardtop (aka “formal roof”) and the much more common “sports roof” fastback. The Cobra performance package included as standard the 335 hp 428 Cobra Jet V-8 with a Holly 4bbl. Optional Ram Air didn’t increase horsepower, but it boosted the performance peak to 5,600 rpm. Also included was a locking rear differential, which was exclusive to Ford. Quarter mile times were typically in the 14.5 second range. Exact production figures are difficult to come by, but it is estimated that about 14,000 Cobras were sold in 1969, with the vast majority of them being the fastback version. Naturally, I prefer the rare hardtop (pictured here), which number about 3,000.

Mopar struck paydirt when it came up with the idea of capitalizing on the muscle car wave of popularity by offering the low-priced Roadrunner to the masses in 1968, with 1969 being a particularly stellar sales year. They were definitely marketing the younger audience with better affordbility, as well as licencing the Warner Brothers cartoon character as its namesake and mascot, including the well-known “beep-beep” sound for its horn. To keep the price down, Roadrunners were minimally appointed, but these cars weren’t toys, as performance and suspension features were not compromised. Base stickered at under $3,000, the price quickly went up when you started beefing it up with power options. Who wants the standard 383 cid mill when you could get a 390 hp 440 with a three-two “Six-pack”? Well forget even that; what you really wanted under the hood was the 426 Street Hemi. Featuring hi-po goodies such as Hemi heads, 10.25:1 compression and two fours, its rated output boosted to 425 hp at 5,000 rpm. It could run the quarter in 13.5 seconds and had a top speed of 140+ mph! Over 80,000 units of the various configurations were sold in 1969, with the “no-post” hardtops being the most desirable among collectors. But the real find today is the rag-top, of which only about 2,200 were produced.

Technically, pre-1968 Olds 442s weren’t an actual model, but rather “442″ was an option package available for the Oldsmobile Cutlass. The standard L78 400 cid engine incorporated a single 4bbl carburetor and was rated at 350 hp. The favored set-up for muscle car buyers was the upgraded L69, which was a one-year-only configuration that featured a hotter cam and a triple 2bbl carb “tri-power” arrangement, which helped increase the power rating by another 10 horses. Quarter-mile runs were as quick as 14.8 seconds. Rarest of the rare was the W-30 version of the tri-power motor, which also incorporated an air induction system via tubing from the front bumper. There were only 54 factory-released copies of the W-30, although another 97 were dealer-modified installations. Finding a W-30 442 today is next to impossible (at this writing, one is available on eBay for $70k!), but lacking that, the “regular” tri-power L69’s are most desired by collectors.

I’m listing both versions of the ‘69 Coronet muscle car here, because they are both very similar (and very cool), but each one has its own unique advantages. The R/T option designation was available on several Dodge models starting back in 1967, and signified “road/track” performance. In 1969, many Mopar fans opted for the slightly less expensive Coronet Super Bee (boasting its unique logo in the rear-end bumble-bee striping). This was Dodge’s equivalent to the Plymouth Roadrunner, and as such, was equally minus many luxury features, making it lighter in weight as compared to the R/T. Super Bees are also much more common, especially those equipped with the base 383 cid (over 24,000 units sold), which was not even available in the R/T. A few Super Bees came with either the bigger 440 six-pack or the 426 twin-four Hemi. The R/T was only offered with the 440 Magnum or the Hemi. These burners routinely ran the quarter-mile in the mid-13s. As for the R/T being the rarer of the two models, about 6,800 R/Ts were produced in 1969, 400 of which were the R/T convertible (all Super Bees were hardtops). Ten of those rag-top R/Ts had the Hemi, and only four of those left the factory with the four-speed tranny.

Chevrolet’s “Super Sport” option package was first introduced for the 1961 Impala and soon spread to its other model offerings including the Chevelle, which began life in 1964. The 1966 model year saw the Chevelle take on what I consider to be its best looking body style, with its most-recognizable feature, the classic forward-thrusting front fenders. The Super Sport version also included special wheel covers, red-line tires, and a black-out grill which showed off the SS badging to further compliment its bold appearance. Enginewise, the 396 was basically a de-stroked big-block 409, and was available in several configurations starting with the base-rated 325 hp version. The top option was the RPO L78 which was a mid-year release. Thanks to its 11.0:1 compression ratio, a hot cam, and other tweaks, this baby generated 375 hp at 5600 rpm, could go 0-60 in about 6.5 seconds and ran 14.5 second quarters. In 1966, Chevelle SS 396s with the L78 engine option numbered only about 100 units, and accordingly are highly prized today.

Many enthusiasts consider the “Goat” to be the first muscle car, and its classic split grill front-end design is among the most recognizable features of all muscle cars. Starting life as an option package for the 1963 Pontiac LeMans, the GTO became its own model series in 1966. Model year 1967 was the last year of this first-generation look with the stacked headlight design, and is showcased here. Standard equipment included bucket seats, a walnut-grained dash panel, duel exhaust, and a beefy suspension. A look under the hood found a bigger 400 cid motor than the prior year’s 389. Pontiac also went from a tri-power (three 2bbls) carb setup to a single 4bbl for the 1967 edition. The top performance option in 1967 was the 400 HO, rated at 360 hp at 5,100 rpm. Adding the Ram Air induction option slightly increased peak rpm. These GTOs typycally ran the quarter-mile in the low 14s. Almost 82,000 GTOs were sold in 1967, 13,872 of which had the 400 HO, with Ram Air installed in only 751 of these units.

This entry is more about an engine, rather than a specific vehicle model line, hence the entry as a bonus item (plus, I couldn’t think of any other way to squeeze it onto the list!). The 426 RB Wedge (aka Max Wedge) was introduced by Mopar in 1963 as a factory produced “racing only” engine, and was sold through 1964, until it was replaced by the more famous 426 Hemi. According to sales brochures, cars ordered with the Wedge were “not a street machine” but were “designed to be run in supervised, sanctioned drag-strip competition”. The usual combo was to order it in Plymouth’s lightest weight model, the Savoy (pictured here), but it could also be found in the more luxerious Belvedere and Sport Fury models. The Dodge equivilent was typically found in the Polara, but in both marques, it could be ordered in any model offered (including wagons and convertables). 2,130 Mopar vehicles with this motor installation were produced in 1963. Boasting dual quads and 13.5:1 compression, this power-plant produced 425 hp at 5,600 rpm. Lightweight stockers with this motor flew down the strip in a blinding 12 seconds.

One of the interesting features of our Prius is that it keeps a running tab on your current gas mileage. You can see both the mileage at any given moment or the average over your trip. Having such easy access to this information while you’re driving subtly teaches you how to drive more efficiently. Here are a few things we’ve learned.

Coasting makes a huge difference on your gas mileage. One thing this data has taught me is the huge value of coasting, particularly through a series of stoplights. Stopping and starting eats a lot of gas - our gas mileage during acceleration goes down to as low as 10 miles per gallon. Coasting, on the other hand, uses virtually no gas at all.

Before adjusting my driving, I had a strong tendency to leave a stoplight, accelerate to the speed limit in town, then often find myself hitting the brake and stopping again as I approached the next stoplight. That meant I was doing a ton of acceleration, then losing most of that speed by braking again just a block later.

Instead of doing that, I’ve found it’s just as quick (and way more energy efficient) to coast as much as possible through long strings of stoplights. I accelerate up to roughly the speed limit, then I coast for a while, particularly if the light ahead of me is red. Almost without fail, I catch up to the car ahead of me just as they’re accelerating away from the stop - and I already have some momentum going forward, which means I don’t have to accelerate nearly as hard to get back up to the speed limit. It doesn’t take any longer and it saves money.

I tested this out driving through the town where I live and the difference was tremendous - doing this added about 25 miles per gallon to my mileage through town.

Driving 75 on the interstate is substantially less fuel efficient than driving 55 on a two-lane highway. One regular trip for us is driving south to the West Des Moines area, about a 35 mile trip or so. We have two routes to get there that are roughly equal in length, but the interstate is a bit faster. On the interstate, of course, we drive around 75 miles per hour to keep up with the traffic. On the other hand, we can take the highway and go around 55 miles per hour. The highway usually takes us about six minutes longer to get to our destination, so before getting our Prius, we’d simply always use the highway.

But here’s the kicker. If we take the interstate, we would get around 38 miles per gallon. If we take the highway, we get about 52 miles per gallon. So, if we take the interstate, we use 0.92 gallons, but on the highway, we use 0.67 gallons. That’s a savings of about $0.48 on the trip, even in our relatively fuel efficient car.

This changes the equation just a little bit. The two lane highway is far more scenic than the interstate as well - there are many more interesting things to see and talk about along the highway route (meaning it’s easier to engage the kids). When you also toss in the fact that it’s cheaper - and it would be a much bigger difference in a less fuel-efficient car or if the price of a gallon of gas were higher than $1.94 - the balance starts to shift towards the slower route. Does the balance actually shift? Not entirely - for us, it still depends on a number of factors (the time of day, the presence of kids, and so on) - but the balance of values has changed.

Wind resistance makes a tremendous difference in your drive. Simply put, driving on a windy day (unless the wind is consistent and at your back) is incredibly inefficient.

On a recent windy day, my family and I embarked on a lengthy road trip where the wind was mostly in our face. This forced us to accelerate quite a bit more to maintain speed - and it pushed the gas mileage down about 35% (29 versus 44). As a test, I drove with the wind on another windy day and found that it improved our mileage by only about 10% (48.5 versus 44).

Thus, unless the wind is very, very consistent and at your back, a windy day will hurt your gas mileage. If you have an optional trip to make and there’s a heavy wind outside, you’re better off delaying the trip. That’s what I’ve already done twice since seeing the impact that a heavy wind can have on gas mileage.

Turn off your cruise control in hilly areas. In virtually every car I’ve used, cruise control has been a great tool on flat roads. It helps me control my slight lead-foot tendencies and seems to do a good job with gas mileage. The data from our Prius backs this up - on flat roads, that is.

If you enter a hilly area, though, cruise control is very inefficient. Instead of maximizing your speed going down hills and using that momentum, cruise control instead tries to keep the car within a few miles per hour of your set speed.

Since it can’t read the road ahead, it doesn’t know what’s coming up. You do. Take advantage of that and turn off the cruise control in hilly areas. I turn it off any time I go downhill or uphill, since it seems to be more efficient to build up speed going down the hill (getting well above your cruise speed) then coasting at the bottom until you get back to your cruise speed, and doing the opposite on hills (allowing yourself to get well below your cruise speed instead of accelerating into a hill).

In the end, our best value from the Prius might be the ability to actually see how our little driving choices affect our gas mileage - and how we can make better choices to vastly improve that mileage. As time goes on, these better choices become ingrained in our driving habits, making the more efficient choices our natural choices - ones that we’ll carry on to other cars. Fuel efficient driving doesn’t cost you time - it just saves you money.

Personally, I’d like to see all cars have a fuel mileage indicator. It’s been an invaluable tool for directly teaching someone how to drive more efficiently - and it’s easy to see the benefit when you go to the gas pump.

Knock 15% Off the Price of Your Next Used Truck or SUV

Save Money By Dealing with Smart Dealers

a moment to read this article and you should knock 15% off the cost of your next used truck or SUV.

· You’re Going To Save Money at Smart Dealers: Industry expert Dale Pollak writes in his book, “Velocity-From the Front Line to the Bottom Line” that used vehicles are assets that depreciate every day. Smart dealers know they make more money from quantity. They want to turn their inventory. Selling 1500 vehicles at a $400 profit is always going to be better than selling 400 vehicles at a $1500 markup because most dealers don’t have a handle on what it costs them to stock their inventory and carry it for 30 days or more.

· Find a Smart Dealer: Check the dealer’s website for the vehicle you want. If the price changes daily (or more often), you’ve found a dealer who has smart business practices. Websites with prices that don’t change for a week or more point to dealers who are living in the Stone Age.

· Independent Dealers Need Your Money More: Their sales are lagging behind franchised dealers who are better able to advertise their wares both new and used. An independent dealer faces greater pressure to deal.

· Private Sellers Are Your Best Bet: Facing the lion's share of used-vehicle declines were private-party sellers, which were down 13 percent. CNW Research of Bradenton, Ore., attributes a large part of private-party sales drop-off to an inability to find financing.

· Cash Is King: If you got it, flaunt it. Be up front that you’re paying cash and you’re willing to walk out the door. It’s just like real estate. The seller wants to know they’re dealing with a buyer who can actually pay.

· Most value-setting websites are at least a week behind: Websites open to consumers just don’t update that quickly. The introduction of a $2000 rebate on a new truck can have an instant impact on the price of used vehicles. Track manufacturers’ websites for special offers. By the way, smart dealers have tools at their disposal that are going to give daily updates on used car values.

· Be Patient: Find a truck or SUV you like. Note the price and wait a week. If the truck’s still on the lot, the dealer might start thinking it’s a dog that won’t hunt. If you’re really patient, wait two weeks. The dealer’s going to be ready to deal and grateful you’re taking the car off his or her hands. For example, according to an article in AutoRemarketing.com, a 2005 Cadillac Escalade ESV in mid-July 2008 had a wholesale price of $17,500, which was down $6,000 from a few weeks prior. In less than a month, the vehicle’s value dropped 25%.

· Do Your Homework on the Options: Some are overpriced because they were expensive when new. A three-year old DVD system, for example, could add $492 to the price of an F-150. Tell the dealer it’s a deal breaker. Old electronics aren’t worth squat. They depreciate much more rapidly than automobiles.

· Be Willing to Settle: Don’t lose a truck or SUV you really want over a couple hundred bucks. You offer a dealer $17,000 for a $20,000 truck. The dealer counter-offers $17,500. Take it. You’re still coming out ahead of the game – and the suckers out there still paying full price.

· Avoid Certified Pre-Owned: If the vehicle can pass a thorough inspection, now might be the time to avoid certified pre-owned. These vehicles cost more and are subject to higher markup. This step depends on your comfort level.

This truly is a buyer’s market. You are in control. Don’t pay full price for a used truck or SUV.

This 8-part email course reveals 8 car-buying scams and schemes auto dealers don't want you to know about -- and shows you how you can save a lot of money on the car you want.

- When you should absolutely never buy a car (and most people buy at exactly the wrong time)

- Why it's so important not to let the salesperson gain control of the sales process -- and how to easily keep control

- Exactly what you need to know about financing -- especially if you have less than perfect credit... and much, much more!

I hope you're ready to find your inner mechanic, because today’s Web site is all about vehicle repairs. More specifically, here at Vehicle Fixer, you can watch videos that will help you repair your vehicle!

How does it work, you ask? Well, you can start by typing the type of vehicle you own or the type of repair you want done in the search engine. Then hit the Enter key. It will then display the video results where the example videos were previously. If there aren’t any to be found, it will display blank videos with the text "0 Videos Found."

If you scroll down past the explanation of the site, you can click on links to videos they have highlighted as examples of their service, as well as, a link to their blog, news and interviews.

I think this site is providing an excellent service to people who would like to do at home repairs on their vehicle, but need to see certain steps visually. Check it out today!

Rat rodders build cars meant to be mean, fast and even a little scary. If you think they're just rusty, old junk -- maybe you should take a closer look.

Wouldn't it be something if you never had to change your engine oil again? Let's take a closer look into oil and why developing lifetime liquid gold may be nothing more than a pipe dream.

A car's transmission enables the engine to provide a wide range of output speeds. Without it, you'd be limited to just one gear. Test your knowledge of both automatic and manual transmissions in this quiz.

10 Ways Car Dealers Make Money Off You

At some point in our lives, we all have to buy a car. Whether it be brand new or second hand, we usually end up going through a dealer. This list is designed to help you save money by not being ripped off by the little tricks that dealers use to maximize their profit and your loss. Be sure to give other tips for saving on a new car in the comments.

This is the most obvious of ways a car dealer makes a profit. The difference between the dealer cost (invoice) and MSRP is typically 5-10%. This may not sound like a ton of mark-up, but when you consider that you’re dealing with thousands of dollars then the profit margin could be quite significant. For example, a car that a dealer pays $30,000 could generate a profit of around three-thousand dollars. And then multiple that times a few hundred cars a month, and a car dealer could make almost a million dollars a month on mark-up alone.

When a dealer sells a new car (not a pre-owned), the sale is RDR’d to the manufacturer (basically informing the manufacturer that one of their units has been sold). Once this sale has been verified, the manufacturer pays the dealer a set amount of money for “hold-back” and advertising. This amount is listed on the invoice in a less-than-obvious location and is often abbreviated/written in a way that a customer will be unable to figure out the information in the event he sees the actual invoice. For example: if an educated customer will only pay a certain percentage over invoice, then that percentage is calculated by the “invoice” price before any “hold-back” or advertising is deducted. Once the deal is funded and the contract is RDR’d, the manufacturer will send the dealer a pretty substantial amount of money (I’ve seen some “hold-back” and advertising fees as much as $1500).

When a person trades in a car, the dealer will surely attempt to undervalue the trade to make an immediate profit, and then a profit later when the trade is sold. The immediate profit comes from what is called the ACV (actual cash value). If a trade is really worth $11,500 (ACV) and the dealer only shows the customer $10, 500, then there is an immediate thousand dollar profit from the start. The trick is to know where a dealer gets his appraisal information (the most common are Black Book and Manheim Auction Reports. Dealers will RARELY match Kelly Blue Book and NADA) and work off that number to get a fair value for your trade. The other means the dealer will make a profit is when he sells your trade in. There are many financial and credit factors that can generate a profit from your trade. Simple example: your trade is bought from the dealer for $10,000. The dealer will then send your car through service and detail and make sure it is prepped for retail and safe to drive (he’ll also insure the car in most instances). Your old car will now be put up for sale for $13,999. Now, here’s where many factors come is based on the potential buyers situation. The lenders will “book out” a car based on a standard process (typically, a program called Dealer-Track will provide access to NADA for the banks and the dealerships to see how much a car can be sold for). Banks will loan a certain percentage of the cars loan value based on the customer’s credit worthiness. Let’s say the car “books out” for $13,125 (this is 100%), and the potential buyer has great credit. The lender will loan up to 135% of the cars value for that customer. Which means the dealer can sell the car to that well-qualified customer for over $17,000 and make a nice profit ($7,000). On the other hand, if a person has poor credit, then the banks will loan less than 100% and the dealer will have to take the deal at a lesser profit, or the customer will have to put some cash down to generate a profit the dealer will agree to.

New and Used cars are “packed.” This is a number that is immediately added to the car (in addition to the already existing mark-up). This is typically money that goes to pay the owner. The amount of pack varies between dealerships, new, used, etc, but I have never seen a “pack” less than $500. I’ve even seen some cars “packed” $1500. Let’s say a dealership sell 250 cars in one month, and the average “pack” is $1000: the owner makes a nice quarter million dollars a month on “pack” alone (3 million a year- not a bad salary).

This is the biggest farce of them all. This is a dollar amount the dealer says goes to pay for the process of handling your paperwork, tag work, title work, tax work, loaner car, etc. The doc fees will fluctuate from dealer to dealer (I’ve seen $299 to $699). This is a legitimate process that does require paying a handful of people for their work, but- in no way does it cost anywhere close to the amount they’re charging. Most of the paperwork can be done is a few minutes and over the phone, internet, fax, etc. The overage naturally goes into management’s pockets.

Bad bad business practice right here. A “bump sticker” is legitimate-looking sticker that the dealer places next to the manufacturer’s window sticker with a higher priced MSRP than the actual MSRP. The dealer will try and justify this added cost by suggesting the car had some special product applied to the paint or the fabric, or some window etching was done, or they’ll try and itemize all the work that needed to be done to get the car prepped for retail (insurance, gas, detail, service, PDI- [post delivery inspection], etc), or they might try and tell you that this car had additional mark up because it’s a “hot item” and people are paying over retail for that car. It’s all a joke and educationally insulting. The theory is once the “bump sticker” is negotiated away, then the customer will feel that he got a pretty substantial discount, when- in fact- he’s simply paid full MSRP for the car: not a very good deal.

When a customer agrees to numbers, they will have to go the F and I office (Finance and Insurance) to finalize the car deal. This is where all the legal forms are signed, etc. However, this is also where a lot of money is made for the dealership. One of the big money makers in the car business comes from the sale of Extended Service Contracts (extended warranty). I would say nine out of ten extended warranties will cover things that are never likely to break. Additionally, you’ll need to pay a deductible (on top of the $1400 dollars you just paid for the warranty) each time you try and use the warranty. The mark up for this product is typically mandated by the state you live in, but you can expect to pay twice its original value. One good thing about an extended service agreement is that most of them are refundable (prorated based on what you haven’t used). Additionally, a certified pre-owned model is typically a better bet than an extended service agreement (because it’s backed by the manufacturer’s name. Extended warranties are typically backed by the private dealer with a lot less public reputation at stake).

Now this is a product that I strongly recommend you buy: it could turn out to worth its weight in gold. However, you don’t have to pay $599 for it at the dealership when you can get it at your local credit union for $150. Basically, GAP insurance satisfies the car loan in the event of theft or total loss. Your insurance company will only pay ACV for your loss, but GAP insurance picks up the “negative equity” you have remaining on your loan. For example: My car is worth $11,000, but I owe $16,000. In the event of a total loss of my car, the insurance company will only pay my lender $11,000 towards the loan leaving me having to come out of my pocket $5000 to satisfy the loan. However, GAP insurance pays the difference and I’m off Scott free to go buy a new car free and clear of any additional payment on the lost car.

A person with good credit should never have to put a down payment towards the purchase of a new car. However, there are some instances where it may be a necessary (too much negative equity in trade, personal need to lower monthly note, etc). But typically, if a customer is satisfied with their payment, and they don’t have a significant amount of negative equity, then the bank should have no problem lending money to a well qualified buyer. Sometimes a salesman or sales manager will say ‘The lender is requiring 20% down,” or they might say “You’re going to have to pay your taxes in cash. The bank will finance the car, but they will not finance any taxes or fees.” This is a lie. If you can secure your own financing (personal bank, credit union, etc) before you buy, then that would be in your best interest and eliminate a lot of the shenanigans that can happen at the dealership. Additionally, when the sales managers offer is itemized with a down payment and payment listed, the payment- more times than not- can be retained without the requested money down. Down payments usually result in sheer profit for the dealership.

This little gem is another reason car dealers get a bad rap. When a sales manager submits your application to lenders for approval, the lenders will reply with what’s called a “call back.” The “call back” details the requirements for the loan. Example: let’s say the sales manager submits the numbers to a prime lender- we’ll use BB & T- for approval. BB & T will reply with terms (24/36/48/60/72 months), maximum amount financed, stip’s (proof of income, proof or residency, references, etc), and what’s called a “buy rate.” The “buy rate” is the interest rate the lender has approved for the loan- let’s use 7.9%. Well, here’s where the finance manager can steal from you. Typically, the lender will allow the dealership to make 2 points of rate if you’re still ok with the payment. That means the rate you’ve earned is 7.9%, but the dealer can contract you at 9.9% and the bank will pay the dealer the overage from the rate. This puts LOTS of cash in their pockets. Next time you buy a car and finance with one of the dealerships banks ask the finance manager to see the call back from the bank and compare that rate with the interest rate he’s trying to sign you up for. If he refuses, then he’s holding points of rate and he doesn’t want you to see that he’s trying to get you to pay a higher rate.

Too many distractions can put your family in danger. Here's how to make car travel safer when your kids are in tow.

Think about reckless driving and what image pops into your head? An 18-year-old kid barreling around in a Hummer? Britney driving with her baby on her lap? Obvious targets, yes. But take a minute. Can you honestly say that you -- a parent of young children -- are above reproach? "Most parents would stand in front of a bus if it meant protecting their child from harm. They'll childproof their home. They'll spend money on the safest family car they can find. And yet they'll get behind the wheel of a 2-ton vehicle and put those they love at unimaginable risk," says Paul Burris, president and founder of the Partners for Highway Safety (trafficsafety.net), in Tallahassee, Florida.

According to a 2004 survey funded by Volvo Cars of North America, more than half of parents admit to talking on the cell phone while driving with their children. Nearly 70 percent have never had a trained professional check their child safety seat. And a 2002 National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) study reports that more than 6 in 10 of us say we take attention off the road in order to contend with children in the backseat.

Why do we take chances? "Crashes aren't an everyday occurrence, and the longer you go without one, the more you believe such a terrible thing can't really happen to you," says John Ulczycki, director of transportation safety for the National Safety Council. Also dulling our sense of risk is the very comfort and safety of the cars we're driving. "You have these nice soft seats, the ride is smooth and quiet, you have your CD or DVD player. It feels like you're traveling around in a living room, when in fact you're hurtling down the highway at 60 miles per hour," Ulczycki says.

How to Avoid Crashes

In an ideal world, everyone would be able to take a safe-driving class like the one offered at the Bondurant School of High Performance Driving, outside Phoenix. Even if you can't make it to Arizona, heeding these simple crash-avoidance strategies may save your life:

Raise your gaze while driving. "Chances are, if the car in front of you hits the brakes, it's because something is happening in front of him. By keeping your eyes on the car about five vehicles ahead of you, you are buying reaction time and can start slowing down even before the car in front of you does," says Bondurant spokeswoman Alice Collins.

Don't slam on the brakes. Suddenly braking may throw the car into a spin. Instead, lift your foot off the gas, steer out of harm's way, then gently put your foot back on the gas.

Avoid target fixation. "People tend to stare at the very thing they don't want to drive into. And it's instinctive that your hands will steer you in the direction you are looking," says Collins. Instead, find a safe opening for your car -- the shoulder of the road, a different lane -- and look at that. Your hands will steer you to safety.

"Parents minimize the dangers of multitasking because they say they do it all the time. What they don't understand is that driving isn't like any other time," says Ulczycki. It only takes a second or two to lose control or for traffic to change, and in those few seconds with your attention off the road, you could get into a crash. Some tips for staying focused:

Make snacks easy to handle, hard to spill. Driving expert Kristin Varela, founder of Mother Proof LLC, recommends keeping bite-size, nonmessy snacks like Goldfish and Cheerios in preportioned individual containers. A good choice: Snack Traps, which are hard to spill and easy for kids to handle. Keep these and spillproof drink cups next to you or in a backseat travel organizer that little ones can access on their own. (Go to motherproof.com for product info and stores.) The same rule about keeping things close at hand applies to grown-ups: If you must have that cup of java while driving, make sure it's in a spillproof cup that fits in your cup holder. Sipping sodas through a straw will also help you focus on the road. And rethink the old fast-food drive-through: Instead of handing out french fries on the highway, take a few minutes and eat while parked. It's the same in-car convenience without the on-road chaos.

Put the phone away. Talking on the phone while driving is not safe, even if you have a hands-free setup with a headset or a device you can talk right into like a speakerphone. "Driving and using the cell phone takes your mind off the road, and that increases your risk of a crash," says Ulczycki. Not that you shouldn't have a cell phone in your car -- just don't use it while driving. If you must be accessible to others, keep the phone on but put it away in your purse so you're not tempted to use it. "If the phone rings, and it could be urgent, you can pull over and return the call," Ulczycki says.

Orchestrate entertainment ahead of time. Load the CD or DVD player before you hit the road, even if you don't plan on playing anything immediately. iPod plug-ins, which come in many new cars or can be bought with adapters from catalogs, are a fantastic option because there's no need to fiddle with disks and they can be uploaded with books from the computer, which are great for long rides, Varela says. Keep car-friendly fun -- stuffed animals and other soft items that aren't choking hazards -- at arm's reach in the backseat console or in a pouch that hangs from the back of the front seat. Avoid balls in the car because they're hard to hold on to and can easily disturb the driver. Also keep all heavy toys -- as well as any other hard objects -- properly secured, ideally in the back with a cargo cover or cargo net. Pets, a major source of distraction on the road, should be restrained in the back or in a carrier.

Lay down the ground rules. Right from the start, children need to learn what behaviors are not appropriate for the car. "Tell them that there is no screaming because that makes it dangerous for Mommy to drive," Varela says. And when that fever-pitched crying strikes, breathe deeply, turn up the radio, and wait for a red light to pick lovey up off the floor or to make sure there's nothing truly terrible going on. Lastly, don't be afraid of bribery. If a promised game of Candy Land or the chance to choose what's for lunch encourages a preschooler to stay in line or even entertain the baby, go for it.

Heed Driveway Dangers

It's called "bye-bye" syndrome: Mommy or Daddy walks out of the house and climbs into the car, assuming their toddler is safe inside. Except this time, their little one figures out how to open that front door and runs out to catch Mommy or Daddy, who is unknowingly pulling out of the driveway. Each year at least 100 young children die under the wheels of a car in just this way, according to Janette Fennell, founder and president of Kids and Cars, which tracks nontraffic auto-related deaths and injuries.

Know where your kids are. Make children move away from your vehicle to a place where they are in full view before moving the car, and know that another adult is properly supervising them. If you are the only adult, and you must move your car from the driveway to the street, buckle the kids into their car seats and move the car with them inside.

Treat driveways like highways. Ideally, make the driveway off-limits as a play area. If that's not possible, place a cone or "children at play" banner at the front of the driveway while it's in use to warn drivers who may try to pull in. When play is over, remove all toys from the driveway so children aren't tempted to run out and get them. Keep unoccupied cars locked at all times, with the emergency brake on. Each year, children playing in and around cars die when they become trapped in the trunk, are asphyxiated by automatic windows, or get caught under the wheels of a vehicle that's been accidentally knocked into gear. "Parents might think it's cute when kids pretend to drive in a parked car, but it sends the wrong message. Teach children early on that cars are not for playing, whether Mommy is there or not," says Fennell.

Beware of your blind zone. "The longer and higher your vehicle is, the more difficult it is to see a child or anything else that's on the ground behind -- or even in front -- of you," says Fennell. Before you go anywhere, walk around your car once to make sure the path is clear. Also consider installing some kind of safety device that can help eliminate blind zones: The most effective options are rear-mounted video cameras that show the driver what is directly behind the car. Less pricey, though not as effective, are backup sensors, which beep when you come close to an obstacle behind the car. Least costly and quite effective, according to Consumer Reports, are special rearview safety lenses -- but they're only effective if the rear glass is completely vertical, as it is on several minivans and SUVs. Visit rearlens.com for more info.

Your Car Care Checklist

___ Check tire pressure every other month: Blowouts on the road can be terrifying and even deadly. Pick up a tire gauge at a hardware store, and ask a service station attendant to show you how to use it. Your vehicle manual will tell you where on your car you'll find the recommended psi for your tires. Many newer cars come with optional tire pressure monitors right on the dash.

___ Keep a first-aid kit on board: Check it once every few months to make sure medications aren't expired and that it's fully stocked. For a list of first-aid kit musts or even preassembled kits, log on to the Red Cross at redcross.org/services/hss.

___ Stock the car: Make sure you have a flashlight on board. "If you crash at night and your lights don't work, or even if you have car trouble, it's crucial," says John A. Brennan, MD, senior vice president of emergency and clinical services at St. Barnabas Health Care System, in West Orange, New Jersey. Keep a supply of dry snacks and bottled water on hand. During cold weather, put a couple of blankets, some mittens, and hats in the car.

Proper Car Seat Installation

Get your car seat professionally installed. Log on to the NHTSA site (nhtsa.gov) to find a certified passenger-safety technician near you. She'll help identify the best seat for your needs and for your car, she'll help you install it, and she'll show you how to use it. All, in most cases, free of charge.

Precautions for Changes in Routine

Every year between 30 and 40 young children die after being left in a hot car. In the vast majority of cases, these children aren't abandoned by irresponsible parents who go off to shop or gamble all day, says Janette Fennell, founder and president of Kids and Cars. It seems hard to believe that a parent could strap a child into his car seat and then forget he's there, but it can happen to an exhausted, overwhelmed new parent -- particularly if that child is facing the rear and thus out of immediate sight. Often the tragedy is due to a change in routine: For example a parent who is not typically responsible for daycare drop-off takes charge that day. Instead of doing the drop-off, the parent drives to work, and returns to the car at the end of the day to find the baby still in the backseat, dead from hyperthermia.

To prevent such a terrible occurrence, take every precaution you can: Fennell suggests always putting your purse on the floor in front of the backseat so you'll be forced to look there before leaving. You might also place a stuffed animal in the car seat when it's empty, and move the toy up front as a visual reminder when the baby is in the car. Lastly, "parents with children in daycare should tell the caregiver to always call them if the child has not arrived by a certain time," Fennell says.

Peg Rosen, who writes frequently about car safety, is a certified child passenger safety technician.

The Consumer Reports annual auto issue was parked in my mailbox on Monday. As in past years (2007, 2008), I spent the afternoon leafing through it. This year, I think I managed to avoid the new-car itch. I’m not fond of my 2000 Ford Focus, but I’ve resigned myself to the fact that I’m going to drive it until it dies.

Here are the Consumer Reports top-rated vehicles in ten categories (with previous years’ top cars in parentheses):

This year, Consumer Reports chose a “best overall vehicle”, which was the Lexus LS 460. The LS scored 99 out of a possible 100 points in the magazine’s road test. (By comparison, my beloved Mini Cooper scored 81.)

Note: Some of the material from the Consumer Reports 2009 Auto Issue is freely available on their website. Other information, however, is locked behind a paywall. And don’t forget that you can always find great info on the Consumer Reports car blog.

Also this year, CR shared its list of “most overlooked cars”. These five vehicles are safe and performed well in their testing, but don’t sell well:

Another new feature in this year’s issue was a measurement of which car provided the most bang for the buck. CR divided each vehicle’s 5-year cost of ownership by its road score to come up with a somewhat arbitrary measure of cost versus quality. They then rated vehicles within their categories. So, for example, the Hyundai Santa Fe was the midsized SUV with the most bang for the buck at $500 “per bang”. The Toyota Prius touring edition was best overall at $325. (The Mini Cooper was in second at $330!)

Readers of this site would probably get the most value from the eight dense pages of used-car articles. My 2000 Ford Focus? It’s still on the list of “used cars to avoid”. No kidding. Tell me about it. There’s also a long feature article answering the question, “Who makes the best cars?” (In general, Chryslers are crap, but Hondas are heroes. Of particular note: Ford quality has been improving in recent years.)

Don’t forget that Get Rich Slowly features car-buying tips from time-to-time. Notable articles include:

The Consumer Reports car issue is an excellent resource. If you think you might purchase a vehicle soon, I recommend it. But I think it’s a little dangerous to pick up just for the sake of browsing. If you’re like me, you can find yourself moved from merely curious to “itching to buy”…

In this age of information and technology, everything around us is smarter. New digital and electronic components make our lives easier and safer at home, in the office and on the road.

There are some gadgets and gizmos that we can easily do without, like nose hair trimmers. However, there are also many intelligent tools that consistently bring convenience and safety to our daily tasks.

In the vast world of “smart” technology, the automotive electronics market is king. Indispensable features such as anti-lock braking systems and electronic stability control are perfect examples of smart and safe automotive electronics.

Recent developments within the automotive industry have brought about a huge increase in the number of electronic devices installed at assembly plants. To give you an idea of how quickly cars have evolved electronically, the Apollo 11 space craft traveled to the moon and back using a mere 150 kilobytes of onboard memory. It’s remarkable to consider that the typical CD player uses a whopping 500 kilobytes, simply to keep our favorite songs from skipping. Enjoying uninterrupted music is a small fraction of how electronics have impacted a car’s performance in order to benefit drivers.

The term used to describe the technology involved in automobile communication systems is “Telematics”, and it was first used to describe the blending of telecommunications and “informatics”, or information technology. The telematics industry recently commanded an increased amount of attention from car manufacturers. Industry insiders predicted that telematics would become “the” go-to technology as early as the mid-1990s. Telematics was expected to increase overall sales and transform the automotive industry into a major player in mobile technology.

These promising forecasts panned out to be a little less than initially predicted. As more conservative measures were considered, the initial industry projection of over $40 billion dollars has been whittled to about half.

By no means do these numbers indicate an abandonment of the development of telematics technology. Automobile manufacturers have, in fact, invested an average of $2000 on electronic systems for every vehicle coming off the line. That’s a huge increase over the $110-per-car budget set in the early 1970s. The spending increase is reflected in everything from better engine performance and improved entertainment systems, to security features and safety devices. All of the electronic components work together to provide drivers with more comfortable, better performing and safer automobiles.

More than one computer runs your car. There is actually a network of computers called the Controller Area Network (CAN). Like a LAN (Local Area Network) that’s commonly used in home and business computers, the CAN links computers together. In your vehicle, the CAN basically links the many separate computer systems together and allows them communicate with each other. These interconnected systems involve everything from critical systems like engine management, cruise control and anti-lock brakes and cruise control, to less-demanding applications like automatic window and seat controls.

Fuel prices have skyrocketed and forced automotive manufacturers to appreciate the need for fuel-efficient vehicles and meet the growing demand. Wise manufacturers use automotive electronics to create more efficient burning of fuel. This is evident in common electronic fuel injection systems (EFIs). In hybrid vehicles, the technology goes one step further. Electronic devices allow the driver to automatically switch between gas and electric engines.

Active and passive safety devices make up the two categories of devices designed to protect the safety of the driver and passengers.

* Active safety devices: These are systems that constantly work to ensure the safety of drivers and passengers. Examples of active safety devices are dynamic steering response (DSR), traction control (TCS), and acceleration slip regulation (ASR). While the average driver may not notice these systems at work, they are constantly sensing road and driving conditions and adjusting the car’s performance accordingly to create a safer ride. Electronic Stability Control has been shown by researchers to have a large safety benefit in reducing single vehicle skids.

* Passive devices: These features may be more visible and seem simpler, but they are also controlled by smart and safe automotive electronics. Through developments in electronics and technology, the deployment of airbags has been improved tremendously over the years. Early-model airbags deployed too early or too late, providing little or no benefit to the driver and passengers. Today’s cars feature more advanced systems that are actually programmed to sense the conditions that can lead to a high collision impact. Airbag and seating adjustment systems can be deployed to minimize the impact and decrease the degree of injury to the people inside the vehicle.

Think of the advancements over just a decade, and you’ll agree that the car of today certainly is a far cry from its predecessors. Modern automobiles offer more than simply a means of getting from point A to point B. Smart and safe automotive electronics make “getting there” as comfortable and as secure as possible.

Exotic cars inspire a legion of car enthusiasts to empty their wallets for a taste of life in the fast lane. Will you be at the front of the pack after racing through the exotic car quiz?

Buying a Used Car in 2009

Conditions Right for Buying a Used Car in 2009

There has been a lot written on this site about what you need to do to buy a used car. This piece, though, will tell you the top 5 tips for buying a used car in 2009 regardless of your credit situation. Plus, I’m going to tell you a class of used car to avoid. These are difficult economic times so it makes sense to have updated info – and not advice published in 2005 when the living was easier.

Know that you have the money to spend before you attempt to buy a used car. Go to your bank or credit union and take out a loan, or at least get pre-approved. Two important pieces of information are going to be handed to you: how much you can afford and what your interest rate is going to be.

Interest rates for 36-month used car loans are ranging from anywhere from 5.64% to 12.59% in Greater Hartford, CT (where I happen to live). You can find sample used car loan rates at BankRate.com that are fairly up-to-date. If you qualify for a 5.64% rate, depending on how much you can afford, you can buy a used car anywhere you want. If your loan is approaching 12%, I’m going to send you to a dealer, but get there fast because prices are starting to inch up.

Prices for used cars being sold by private sellers have dropped 10% in the last year. Why? Supposedly, nobody has the credit to buy used cars unless there is dealership financing available.

The savings can be significant. Take a 2006 Ford Five Hundred for example. According to Edmunds.com http://www.edmunds.com a middle-of-the-road model is going to cost $11,137 at a dealer, but only $10,109 at a private seller. You’re going to save at least 10% in most cases and you’re going to be able to strong arm a private seller, most of whom are selling out of necessity and want to get the car out of the driveway.

Dealers have a lot of access to credit from different sources. A good finance manager is going to be able to find you money because they are not going to turn you away if there is any way the deal can be made.

Plus, the used car market is starting to rebound. As banks and other financial institutions realize this, they are going to recognize there is money to be made in the marketplace. Be on the cusp as the money starts to open up.

It is possible to save some money with bad credit, but you have to take a bit of a gamble by heading to an independent dealer. By the way, look for one with a parts and service department. They’re a little more financially stable.

Independent dealers are not rebounding as quickly as franchised dealers. They’re going to be willing to deal for a little while longer.

I’m usually a big fan of certified pre-owned used cars but you’re going to save money by not buying a certified pre-owned used car this time around. Dealers are just dying for areas when they can exploit market conditions and charge higher prices.

For example, on the above mentioned Ford Five Hundred, the certified pre-owned price is $13,700, or $2600 more. It gets even more expensive when you finance. Assuming no money down, on a 9% 48-month loan, you’ll pay $3120 more or about 23% higher.

The secret is you need to make sure you get a quality inspection of the used car. It’s $150-$200 well spent when you consider that you could save $3120.

Drive Down Your Car Insurance

I certainly don’t intend to turn this into a “how to save money on transportation” blog, but there’s a lot of interest and information out there right now due to increased gasoline costs. Suze Orman has a list of ten ways to drive down your car costs. These are all methods of reducing your auto insurance costs, and they include:

You just bought a car. You did your homework. You did your shopping. And you negotiated a great deal. Well, before you start popping champagne corks and patting yourself on the back, be advised that you're not out of the woods yet. For now is the time you have to tip-toe through that minefield known as dealership fees. These are incidental charges that pad your deal in favor of the owner. They are the inevitable cost of doing business, or so you'll be told. And you have to pay them. Or do you? Well, it just so happens that this is the car business where everything is open to discussion.

Every dealer has this one. Some call it the Processing Fee. Others call it Dealer Documentation or Doc Fee for short. Regardless of what it's called, your dealer assesses this charge to your deal to cover the cost of processing the paperwork. Cost could range from $100 to $400. Your dealer will tell you that this fee is non-negotiable. Whether it is or not could actually depend upon your deal. If the dealer is making a real score, then he might waive the fee so you don't think he's the cutthroat capitalist he actually is. If his profit is negligible, then don't expect any favors. However, getting this fee waived is no different than any other aspect of your deal. If you don't ask, you don't get.

This fee is charged to your deal to cover the cost of preparing the car for you to pick up. Is it kosher? No.

At all well-run dealerships, the service manager assigns one of his mechanics to prep every new car that comes off a truck. Except for setting a few fuses, verifying the fluids and checking the tires, all new cars are literally ready to drive when they leave the factory. So don't think the car you bought was prepped especially for you. It wasn't. And as far as paying the wash kid, most dealer principals consider this employee a cut above an indentured servant. So the cost of readying your car is negligible

At the last dealership I worked at, the conveyance fee was $229, and that included prepping the car. So if your dealer tries to pick your pocket twice, tell him you'll pay one fee not two.

Many customers confuse this with Destination. A delivery charge is a sleight-of-hand designed to prey upon your wallet, as opposed to the vehicle's destination charge that is built into the price and can be found on the window sticker. For instance, a 2008 Acura TL has a destination charge of $760. A 2008 Ford Taurus X costs $750 to ship. So if your dealer tries to hit you with a delivery charge on top of destination, tell him to pay it.

A dealership advertising fee is as bogus as one of the dealer's unwritten promises. Advertising appears on the invoice of the car you're purchasing. Like destination, it is built into the price. It is the charge by the manufacturer to the dealer for advertising the car on TV, radio, Internet and so forth. So refuse to be double-dipped.

Etching is an anti-theft countermeasure. It is security that is relatively inexpensive and well worth the cost. The process entails having the vehicle identification number or some other series of numbers etched into the glass. This is accomplished with a stencil and paste. Once the numbers have been branded into the glass, they cannot be removed.

Many police departments and insurance companies advocate window etching. If all the windows are etched and the car is stolen, the thief must replace all the glass before selling your car. This obviously impacts his profit and therefore makes your car less attractive to steal. In fact, you might find that your insurance company offers policy discounts for window etching.

Many dealers offer VIN etching as a convenience. Be advised that this could be an expensive convenience. It could cost some $200 to $300. I know of a customer who paid $999 for etching at a dealership in New York City. This guy could have bought a do-it-yourself kit and saved a whopping $960!

Negotiating a good price gives you a good deal, but falling prey to fees puts some of your savings back into the dealer's pocket. When treading the minefield of dealership fees, stay focused and alert and you can turn a good deal into a great deal.

- Don't fall prey to fees that line the dealer's pocket. Go armed with knowledge of the above fees that pad the deal in favor of the dealer.

Would be drivers in the United States must go through some kind of driving instruction and pass a written exam and a road test before being given a license to drive.

But, sometimes it is hard to believe that any level of competency is required to be given a license. Take a ride for just three or four hours and you’ll count dozens of bad drivers, some extremely dangerous. Here is how to be sure you are not among them.

1. Never drive after consuming more than one alcoholic beverage. The alcohol in two cocktails will, at the very least, slow your reflexes.

2. Be sure to follow at least 2 seconds behind the car in front of you. Three to four seconds is even better,

3. If a car is following you at a dangerous distance, pull over. It may be the smartest thing you do all day.

4. Be certain that your mirrors are properly adjusted at all times, and be aware of where the blind spots are.

5. Always look left and right before proceeding through intersections. Do not assume that other drivers will stop at stop signs or traffic lights.

6. Note the bad drivers and take special precautions when you are in close proximity to them.

7. Anticipate at all times. Know what you will do if another driver makes a mistake.

8. Adjust your driving in inclement weather, when roads are wet or icy, when lighting is poor, or when roads are rough or under construction.

9. Replace worn tires, brakes, windshield wipers, etc. immediately when required.

10. You should never make a driving move that requires another driver to slow down or change direction. If you do, you are part of the problem.

Driving is not a forgiving activity. Any mistake can lead to serious injury, or worse. So, do everything you can to make it more pleasant and safer for everyone on the roadways.

Larry Libassi is a teacher and counselor who drives more than 40,000 miles a year. When he is not behind the wheel of a car, he teachers and helps adults identify online college programs and online degree options which will help them achieve their individual educational and career goals.

It’s that dreaded time of year. For those of us in the northern part of the country, the snow is falling, cars are stalling, and I start grumbling a bit more than usual. Each trip to town requires a 10-minute pre-start on my car, and the hated task of scraping my windshield. There are several options to help you with this chore, with some being more practical than others. See what has worked for others, and how you can take control of a frozen windshield and limited visibility for just a few pennies.

Cover it. This no-brainer works the best. By keeping your windshield protected from the elements, you can effectively prevent ice build-up, frost, or snow from ever touching the glass. The easiest approach is to store your vehicle in a mild garage or storage area, but this isn’t an option for everyone.

Another method is to place a lightweight tarp or double-folded old sheet directly over your windshield, and hold it down in place with bungee straps or weights of some sort. The next time you go out to your car, you can remove the cover, and any accumulated light frost should melt shortly via the defrost function of your car. (This won’t work well in areas with heavy snowfall, however, as the weight of the snow could make removing the cover a herculean task.)

Prevent it. I prefer not having to mess with tarps and straps, so I’m especially tempted by the commercial ice-prevention formulas offered on the market. They seem so easy to use: just spray before you go to bed each night, and wake up to a frost-free windshield. Some obvious disadvantages to this method include the cost to purchase the products (which may cost up to $13 per bottle) and the questionable contents of some brands.

The readers of the Dollar Stretcher have their own recipe for a safe, non-toxic version of a ice retarding solution: Simply mix 3 parts vinegar and 1 part water in a spray bottle. Apply to all the car windows (including side and rear) before going to bed at night. (Our own Paul Michael also mentions vinegar in this 254 Uses and Counting piece.)

Remove it. If you find yourself in the impossible situation of having to scrape very thick ice or snow from you windshield, don’t fret! The right scraper can do wonders, but a nice homemade de-icing solution can help, too. The Stretcher has two more recipes for you, in the event you can’t get that nasty ice to budge:

Mix one part water to two parts rubbing alcohol. Apply to the window and watch it peel right off!

Use a bottle of 70% isopropyl alcohol (50% works, too, but not as well) with a few drops of dish soap. Apply liberally to the glass with a spray bottle. (Readers also recommend adding alcohol to the washer fluid container, with a 50/50 mix, to keep wiper lines from freezing up in the winter.)

Winter won’t last forever, but it can feel like an eternity. Stop the scraping madness with a little planning and some homemade solutions designed to save time and money. (And let us know how they work for you!)

Ever wonder what happens to junked cars? Car crushers flatten them into tiny cubes or slabs after the vehicle has been stripped of its recyclable parts. How do car crushers work? And is this a lucrative business?

Prepare Your Car For Winter Driving - Introduction

Intro - Electrical - Ignition - Emission & Fuel - Cooling & Under - Lube, Visibility & Paint - Emergency Kit - Tips

Why Cars Won't Start

Despite dramatic improvements in engines and fuels, "no starts" continue to be the most common reason for emergency road service. A vehicle in good mechanical condition, however, should start under virtually any conditions. For an engine to start it needs:

If all of the above are in order, if the internal parts of the engine are in good condition and the engine oil is clean and of the right grade for cold weather operation, the engine should start.

Many of the above factors are interdependent, however. Even a brand new battery, for example, cannot start a car that needs a tune-up.

Newer cars often require diagnosis and tune-up to catch those hidden "glitches" that can let you down when you least expect it.

Throughout the summer, your car may have performed at its best, no bitter cold to contend with and driving was easy. Now comes the first cold snap and/or the big blizzard. Cars and owners are put to the test.

This website offers suggestions on making winter driving a safer, more enjoyable experience. It all begins with preventive maintenance of the vehicle.

Snow Tire Q&A

Five questions (and answers) about winter tires

Snow tires have tread specially designed to dig down and grip snow and ice. Tread shown here is from a Bridgestone Blizzak LM25 snow tire

A: Snow tires (also known as winter tires) have tread patterns specifically designed to dig down and bite into snow and ice, plus they are made from softer rubber compounds that retain their flexibility in cold weather, allowing the tire to better conform to the surface of the road. (Regular tires tend to get hard and brittle in cold temperatures.) As a result, winter tires keep a better grip on snowy and icy surfaces than regular all-season or summer tires. Grip is critical -- not just to avoid getting stuck, but to ensure that the car can stop and steer. Life-saving safety technologies such as antilock brakes, electronic stability control and all-wheel-drive cannot do their jobs if the tires can't maintain their grip on the road surface.

The Benefits of Proper Inflation

Your Own Tire Pressure Gauge

Inflation Tips

Underinflation

Proper Vehicle Loading

Inspect Your Tires Regularly

Good Driving Habits

When You're Stuck

Highway Hazards

Spare Care

Aerosol Inflators

Vehicle Conditions Affecting Tires

Balance

Alignment

Tire Rotation

The Sidewall Story

Passenger Tires

Treadwear

Traction

Temperature

Replacement Tire Selection

Speed Ratings

Types of Tire Construction

COLD-WEATHER DRIVING

How Cold Temperature Affects Tires

Snow Tires

SERVICE ASSISTANCE

Loss of Tire Pressure

Plugs vs. Patches

Serviceable Tire Injuries

STORAGE TIPS