Updated: August 25 /2010
http://www.wikihow.com/Category:Car-Maintenance-and-Repair
Amazing Cop Cars: http://www.shangralafamilyfun.com/copcars.html
Take a walk down memory lane with these cars. The younger generation probably has never seen some of these The music is fantastic!!!!!!!! http://www.greatdanepro.com/Classic%20Cars/classic%20cars.htm
Amazing Air Cars http://www.shangralafamilyfun.com/aircars.html
World's Fastest Cars http://www.shangralafamilyfun.com/fastcars.html
Chevrolet Pictures and Information including the 57 Chevy! http://www.hubcapcafe.com/ocs/chevrolet.htm
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/ten-green-driving-tips.htm
The site spits back your total miles, the average gas price between locations, and about how much you'll need to spend on gas for that trip. It also uses Google Maps to give you directions, if you need those. http://www.drivepricing.com/
Do you know which type of car gets the best gas mileage? There are plenty of ways to "drive greener" -- saving money, gas and the Earth. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/green-driving-quiz1.htm
Smart Car of America http://www.smartcarofamerica.com/
Exotic Car Quiz Exotic cars inspire a legion of car enthusiasts to empty their wallets for a taste of life in the fast lane. Will you be at the front of the pack after racing through the exotic car quiz?
Why did cars become the dominant form of transportation in the United States?
Understanding: Cars In The 1920s
The electric motor in a hybrid car can also act as what?
How to wash your car like a pro
It's an old gearhead adage that a clean car runs better -- and you want to
impress your family with your nice clean car, right? I visited
Mothers, the car-cleaning experts, to learn to wash a car the way the pros
do it. Learn how in
this step-by-step guide.
- About.com Cars Guide
Aaron Gold
How to clean, detail and wax your car
I always recommend putting a coat of wax on your car before winter starts. If
you've got a half-day of downtime during your vacation, you can clean, detail
and wax your car, restoring its finish and making it look like new. I'll show
you how to do it in my
step-by-step guide.
- About.com Cars Guide
Aaron Gold
Stainless Steel Car http://www.alleghenyludlum.com/pages/companyinfo/stainlesscars.asp
GMAC National Driver's Test http://www.gmacinsurance.com/SafeDriving/2008/
Driver Training: Ways to Control Hydroplaning
http://abcnews.go.com/Video/playerIndex?id=4826897-video on tires
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2009 Detroit Auto Show photo gallery
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Visitor's Guide to the Detroit Auto Show
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Automotive Troubleshooting Secrets (ATS) is the
brainchild of master mechanic Richard Trent.
http://www.automotivetroubleshootingsecrets.com/?hop=page1
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Visitor's guide to the New York Auto Show
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Photo gallery: 2009 New York Auto Show
http://cars.about.com/od/autoshows/ig/2009-New-York-Auto-Show-pics/?nl=1
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The cars We drove
Someone
did an awesome job putting this together and with sound to boot. At the very end
of the video you'll hear the song ' Thunder Road ' sung by the star of the
movie for which it was the theme! Not uncommon except this is the one and only
song ever recorded, for publication, sung by Robert Mitchum!
http://thefiftiesandsixties.com:80/CarsWeDrove.htm
"Car Buying Secrets for Getting the Best Deal"
Buying a New or Used Car?
This 8-part email course reveals 8 car-buying scams and schemes auto dealers don't want you to know about -- and shows you how you can save a lot of money on the car you want.
Here is a sample of what you'll discover:
- When you should absolutely never buy a car (and most people buy at exactly the wrong time)
- Why it's so important not to let the salesperson gain control of the sales process -- and how to easily keep control
- Exactly what you need to know about financing -- especially if you have less than perfect credit... and much, much more!
Sign up for your FREE subscription to the "Car Buying
Secrets for Getting the Best Deal" Mini-Course. Visit:
http://clicks.aweber.com/y/ct/?l=6uCYt&m=1gos5xl4swKWfo&b=e4T584c3.YjpEFecUwcUEQ
Internet Movie Cars Database ". . .where you can learn everything you want to about the cars that are in the movies that you love." http://www.imcdb.org/
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http://www.myride.com/content/shared/articles/templates/index.cfm/article_id_int/6636/id/31599
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ADULT content, view yourself 1st , kids? you decide, As a retired cop I feel it is good viewing for anyone with a license to drive
Ross http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=Z2mf8DtWWd8
Index
Airbag safety April 22/10
Alpha Cars for 2008 Jan 7/08
Are grease cars legal March 18/09
Are your new tires really six year old ticking time bombs August 1/08
Art of the Car Deal Jan 16/08
Auto Body Side Molding Fix Sept 22/07
AUTO FAST FIXES Sept 28/07
auto maintenance myths July 12/07
Automobiles Can Drive You Broke Nov 12/08
Automotive electronics for safe driving Feb 20/09
Automotive Terms Feb 28/08
Avoid Getting Pulled Over for Speeding
Backseat driver s companion Feb 18/10
Beat the Heat Car Care July 2/07
Becoming a NASCAR Driver Jan 16/08
best and worst 2009 Cars March 6/09
Best Cars for 2008 Feb 19/08
Best Family Cars 2008 March 25/08
Best in proper car maintenance March 1/10
best way to maximize fuel economy for a car Aug 9/10
Better driver training April 27/10
Biggest Mistakes When Buying a Car Dec 12/07
Brake Fluids July 30/07
Buying a Used Car July 14/07
Buying a Used Car in 2009 Feb 6/09
Buying a second hand car and walking away happy August 1/08
Buying that New Car Oct 11/07
Can any car be converted into a grease car March 18/09
Car Battery Care Sept 28/07
Car-Buyers Minefield: Dealership Fees Jan 20/09
Car Buying Secrets for Getting the Best Deal April 8/09
Car Buying: 16 Tips to the Best Deal
Car Detailing: Should You Pay Professionals Oct 22/07
Car Oil Change Guide Sept 22/07
Car Safety and Performance July 14/07
Car Safety: Protecting Precious Lives Oct 22/07
Car safety quiz Dec 18/08
car seat safety tips Nov 6/08
Car Security Oct 22/07
Car Shopping Tips for New and Expecting Parents Oct 15/08
Car suspension quiz Oct 15/08
Car Travel and Children July 5/07
Car Winterizing tips Oct 15/08
Cars named after animals Jan 1/09
Cars To Drive Before You Die Dec 10/07
Cheap and easy formulas for homemade windshield de-icer Jan 14/09
Chevy Muscle Cars Nov 15/07
Choosing the right tow bar March 3/10
Classic American Muscle Cars August 16/09
Clean Battery Posts = Reliable Starting Oct 5/07
Clean Your Cars Interior October 1/07
Cleaning Tires for Appearance and Protection
Consumer guide automotive March 6/09
Consumer Guides Real World Fuel-Economy_
Create Your Own Roadside Emergency Kit
Cutting edge car questions of 2008 Jan 15/09
dealing with a car dealer July 14/07
Deals on Wheels April 10/08
Decision Making Tools For Your Car
Do Hybrids Cost More to Maintain May 3/08
Do the Math! Here's how to calculate the cost of your trips May 13/08
Drive down your car insurance Jan 23/09
Drivers Quiz Oct 8/07
Easy Steps to Buying a Hybrid Sept 9/08
Easy Ways To Save Money On Gas March 14/08
Electric car quiz Oct 8/09
Everything You Always Wanted to Know About Cars July 11/07 Tons of articles!
Exotic car quiz Feb 12/09
Favorite tricks of the car-dealer trade July 14/07
15 Minute Auto Deal March 12/08
Finding a New Car Aug 13/08
Finding an auto mechanic that you trust Sept 11/08
Fix Bad Wiring In Utility And Boat Trailers Sept 26/07
FUEL ECONOMY TIPS FROM YOUNG DRIVERS OF CANADA
Future Cars July 5/07
Garage security tips March 3/10
Gas Mileage June 2/08
Gas Mileage and Your Driving Habits May 16/08
Gas Saving Tips Oct 19/07
Headlight Maintenance - Essential For Safer Driving June 2/08
Heater Hose Repair October 1/07
High cost of new car smell April 20/10
History of hot rods and customs Sept 24/09
How does a hybrid car work Aug 28/08
How four wheel drive works Oct 15/08
How many plies do most car tires have Jan 1/09
How Radar Detectors Work August 15/07
How rat rods work March 13/09
How the Smart Car Works July 5/07
How to Become a Safer Driver March 6/09
How to buy a car-Quiz Sept 26/08
How to change a flat tire Nov 10/08
How To Change Your Air Filter August 15/07
How to Drive Economically June 28/07 A Must Read!!
How engines work Feb 6/09
How to extend the life of your car March 26/08
How to Get Better Fuel Economy Jan 9/08
How to handle a car wreck Aug 25/10
How to jump start a car -with pictures Sept 15/08
How to jumpstart your car—and do it safely July 27/07
How to live past 150,000 (miles, that is) Oct 15/08
How to Obtain a Good Auto Insurance Policy Nov 8/07
How to Perform a Radiator Flush August 15/07
How to prepare your car for a road trip Nov 21/08
How to Save on Car Costs Nov 12/08
How to set a new car budget Oct 15/08
How to Shop for a Battery July 30/07
How To Test Drive a Used Car May 7/08
How to tie down your load April 14/10
How the Venutri Fetish works March 18/09
Hypermiling (Saving Lots of Fuel) in a Hybrid Jan 23/08
Inner workings of a car dealership and how to use them to your advantage Aug 28/08
Is anyone developing lifetime engine oil March 13/09
Is Big Brother your backseat spy April 29/10
Is it smarter to buy or lease a car Jan 1/09
Jamming the traffic August 9/07
Jump Start Your Car Safely Sept 24/07
Jumpstarting your vehicle-you really should know how Feb 20/10
Keeping Your Car In Shape June 2/08
Leasing Buying New or Buying used Aug 15/08
Least Expensive Cars of 2009 Dec 13/08
Least expensive vehicles Feb 8/10
Lesson in fuel efficient driving April 24/09
Links about cars March 19/08
Little things you can do to save gas Aug 9/10
Lubricate Hinges, Latches and Locks On Your Car Sept 19/07
Maintaining Present Vehicle May Make Financial Sense July 30/07
Make your car a better investment June 19/08
Measure your car s tire tread depth using a gauge Aug 9/10
Must see cars at the 21010 Chicago auto show Feb 20/10
Must see cars at the 2010 Detroit auto show Jan 18/10
Must see Debuts at the 2009 Frankfurt auto show Sept 28/09
Myths on Leasing a Car Jan 25/08
New car deals for 2010 Feb 12/2010
(The) new consumer guide automotive March 13/09
NY Auto Show 2008 April 10/08
optional equipment lists July 12/07
Penny Wise - Pound Foolish Auto Glass Decisions July30/07
photo History of Formula 1 Cars Jan 11/08
Prep, Market and Do The Right Things To Sell Your Used Car Dec 11/08
Prep your car for winter driving Dec 10/07
Prepare Your Car For Winter Driving - Introduction Jan 5/09
Prevent Auto Accident Injury Oct 11/07
Pulled over Skip the line; cops have heard it all Oct 26/07
Quick Fixes for Small Automotive Problems June 2/08
Repacking Trailer Wheel Bearings September 26/07
Replace a flat tire in 5 simple steps March 12/10
Replace Your Brake Pads August 15/07
Reviewing and topping up the oil in your auto March 29/10
Reviewing the 2010 Toyota Pirus March 12/10
Riding shotgun Nov 6/08
Rust: A Nasty Four Letter-Word July 27/07
Save dollars and the planet by rethinking what you drive and how July 30/07
Save Money By Dealing with Smart Dealers April 10/09
Save Money on Gasoline for your Automobile
Saving Money on Gas through Fuel
Selling Used Cars Overseas Not as Difficult as You Might Think Sept 5/08
Service Beacon- a website Sept 11/08
Seven biggest used car buying pitfalls Dec 11/09
Shopping for Parts Feb 28/08
Should You Buy an Auto Service Contract Sept 20/08
Should You Fix It Yourself May 3/08
Signs of Impending Car Trouble July 14/07
Snow Tire Q&A Jan 1/09
(The) Speed Trap Exchange -a website Sept 9/08
Stay On Top of Maintenance With a Regular Maintenance Schedule June 4/08
Staying Rust Fre-Protecting your second most expensive investment Oct 14/08
Steering Clear of Injuries from Skid Steer Loaders Aug 25/10
Sticking gas pedals-not only on Toyotas Feb 20/10
Stress free driving Oct 10/08
Strong Ways To Declutter Your Car March 14/08
Summer Auto Maintenance Checklist May 3/08
Summer prep steps April 14/10
Taking Out Little Dents August 4/07
10_day_survival_pack_for_your_vehicule
Things You Need to Know About Automobile Tire Care and Safety Aug 11/08
Things we probably dont need March 29/10
things your should always have in your car
Things you need to know about auto tire care and safety Jan 18/10
Things you should do immediately to save money when you buy a car Oct 31/08
Things you should know before getting a car loan Nov 25/09
Three D of motor vehicle safety Aug 25/10
Tips and Advice on Car Buying Jan 14/10
Tips For Driving on Unfamiliar Roads March 24/10
Tips For Loading Cargo In A Pickup Truck Sept 19/07
Tips on Trading in Your Car Sept 26/08
TIPS ON PUMPING GAS Aug 18/08
Tips to maximize your car buying deal
Tools for Do-It-Yourselfers July 27/07
Top 10 tips for not screwing up on the road Oct 21/09
Top 10 winterizing tips Oct 21/09
Traffic Myths Aug 28/08
Traffic Stop Do s and Don ts Aug 9/10
TV custom cars Sept 24/09
2008 Detroit Auto Show Jan 23/08
Upside of the Toyota recall debacle March 24/10
Vehicle Myths July 27/07
Ways Car Dealers Make Money Off You March 13/09
Ways to be a better driver Jan 20/09
Ways to De-Stress Your Drive Nov 8/07
Ways to Save on Auto Insurance Nov 26/08
Web site all about vehicle repairs March 13/09
What connects the gears to the drive shaft quiz March 13/09
What if my brakes stopped working June 11/08
What to expect after an auto accident July 14/07
wheel alignment can increase the longevity
When To Have Your Brakes Serviced - Introduction June 4/08
When your brakes are “talking” be sure to pay attention July 27/07
Which Car is Best for You Jan 9/08
Why Wont My Car Start Jan 11/08
Why You Should Change Your Wipers Today Oct 5/07
Winter Auto Maintenance Checklist Oct 5/07
Winter Auto Maintenance Checklist Nov 10/08
WINTER CAR TIPS AND TRICKS FRO EASIER WINTER DRIVING Jan 9/10
Winterize Your Pickup Truck Nov 8/07
James Witherspoon
Car accidents are the leading cause of
death for persons between the ages of 1 and 30 years old. Unfortunately, car
wrecks occur at an alarming frequency. Each day approximately 115 people are
killed in car wrecks-that is one person every 13 minutes. The financial cost of
car accidents total around 230 billion dollars per year.
If you drive or ride in vehicles regularly, you will likely be involved in at
least one car accident. Knowing how to react after a car accident can be
critical in ensuring the safety of all parties involved, as well as securing the
financial compensation you deserve.
Post-Wreck Protocol
Many people do not know how to handle a car accident when it occurs. Frequently
drivers enter post-traumatic shock, resulting in confusion. After a collision
occurs, try to remain level-headed and follow these steps:
1. Quickly assess the severity of the collision by checking to see if anyone was
injured. If anyone is bleeding, unconscious, or requests emergency medical care,
dial
9-1-1 immediately and request an ambulance.
2. Call the police and inform them of the accident.
3. If possible, move vehicles out of the way of traffic. If not possible, turn
on hazards and stand in a safe spot until the police arrive.
4. Exchange information with all other involved parties. You should write down
their full name, license plate number, insurance provider and policy number. It
is likely that they will request the same information from you.
5. If there are any eye witnesses around, request their name and phone number as
well, as this may be helpful in confirming the details of the wreck later.
6. Tell the police officer your version of the accident and request a copy of
his accident report.
7. If your car is still drivable, you may leave the scene when the officer
consents; however, if your vehicle is no longer working, call a tow truck to
come and tow your vehicle to a destination of your choosing.
8. Call you insurance provider and explain the accident to them. Make sure to
give them the information from the other driver and file a claim.
If you are unable to secure compensation with the help of your insurance
provider, you may need the assistance of an experienced car wreck attorney.
========
For more information about how to pursue compensation for your wreck,
contact
the New York City car accident lawyers of Parker Waichman Alonso, LLP today.
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The Three D's and Motor Vehicle Safety
James Witherspoon
Each year in the
United States, the lives of many people are disrupted by the unforeseen
occurrence of a motor vehicle accident. Several million traffic collisions occur
and the unfortunate truth is that a large portion of these potentially
life-altering events could be prevented through the exercise of even the most
modest discretion by motorists who instead choose to operate a vehicle while
their capacities are impaired in one or more ways. This negligent behavior
subjects others on the roadway to a needless risk of serious injury or death,
and the victims of these accidents may be able to file a civil lawsuit seeking
financial compensation for medical bills, vehicle repairs, and other damages as
appropriate.
Despite the effectiveness of the advanced safety technologies that are available
in modern passenger cars and trucks, when traveling at highway speeds it is
still entirely possible for a vehicle's occupants to sustain severe physical
injuries. The cost of even basic medical care is beyond the reach of many
people, so the prospect of having to find a way to come up with the funds
necessary to pay for a bill that could easily be for tens or hundreds of
thousands of dollars adds a genuine insult to the injuries that have already
been suffered. Without the resources gained from a successful lawsuit, it may be
impossible to pay for this care and an accident victim may be driven into
bankruptcy. Moreover, this only represents a portion of the financial concerns
that an individual will have to face after an accident.
The Three D's of Driving Danger - There are many factors that can cause a motor
vehicle accident, but the most objectionable are those which can be easily
prevented. During recent decades, the following problems have become
increasingly prevalent and constitute a clear and present danger to the safety
of any persons on or near the roadway, and they may be easily remembered as the
"three D's of driving danger:
Drowsy driving - the fast-pace and all hours lifestyle of our present day
society often leads to motorists operating vehicles when they are too fatigued
to properly manage the task of driving; the National Highway Transportation
Safety Administration has reported that there are roughly 100,000 crashes each
year attributable to drowsy driving
Distracted driving - though it has received much attention with the rise of text
messaging as a prominent form of interpersonal communication, distracted driving
has long been an issue; speaking on cellular phones, text messaging, operating
GPS
devices, eating, drinking, adjusting radio or climate control settings, and
other frequent behaviors distract a motorist from properly observing the roadway
Drunk driving - by far the most vilified of the three D's, drunk driving is
hazardous because an intoxicated motorist lacks many of the most basic
compensatory functions that are needed to respond to changing traffic conditions
========
If you have been hurt in a motor vehicle accident and believe that one or
more of the above may have been a factor, we might be able to help. Contact the
Sheboygan
car
accident lawyers of Habush
Habush & Rottier, S.C.
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Steering Clear of Injuries from Skid Steer Loaders
In August 2006 a machine operator was killed when the skid steer loader he was driving tipped into a manure pit, capsizing and submerging him. He had been pushing manure with the skid steer loader from the barn into a manure pit. The steel pipe barricade usually in place to prevent the skid steer from tipping into the pit had been damaged earlier and removed for repair.
The position of the machine arms suggested the operator was unable to exit the cab at the front, and that he may not have been aware the emergency exit was through the back window of the machine. Nova Scotia Labour and Workforce Development issued an alert to raise awareness of the safety issues involving working with and around skid steer loaders.
A skid loader or skid steer loader is a compact, engine-powered machine with lift arms to which a variety of labour-saving tools can be attached. Although they are sometimes equipped with tracks, skid steer loaders are typically four-wheel drive vehicles with the left-side drive wheels independent of the right-side drive wheels, making them extremely maneuverable.
The features that make these machines so effective and agile also put workers at risk of rollover and run over incidents, and expose them to other risks of injury. For example, the operator's seat and controls are located between the lift arms and in front of the lift arm pivot points, placing the operator close to the lift arms' zone of movement. Because skid steer loader operators must enter and exit through the front of the loader and over the bucket, there is always the risk that if they don't exit or enter properly, a foot or hand control may be activated and may cause movement of the lift arms, bucket, or other attachment.
Here are some tips to help you work safely with or around skid steer loaders:
Before you start
· Ensure that you are trained in all aspects of the equipment - operating procedures and safety features.
· Be familiar with and follow the manufacturer's instructions.
· Regularly inspect and maintain the skid steer loader.
· Clear the area of bystanders before you start work.
· Ensure rollover protective structures and safety screens are in place at all times.
Tips for safe operating
· Enter and exit the loader safely - only when the bucket is flat on the ground, or when the lift arm supports are in place.
· Before leaving the operator's seat,
o lower the bucket to the ground,
o set the parking brake, and
o turn off the engine.
· Operate the loader from inside the operator's cab; never from the outside.
· Work with the seat belt fastened and the restraint bar in place.
· Never permit passengers on skid steer loaders.
· Never use a skid steer as a work platform.
· Don't exceed a loader's rated operating capacity. Overloading can make a skid steer unstable.
· Always make sure that attachment locking devices are in place to prevent an attachment from breaking free and causing harm to the operator or a bystander.
· Never place any part of the body or limb under raised loader arms. If you must carry out repairs with the loader arms raised, be sure to lock the arms in place.
Tips for safe travelling
· When travelling or turning, keep the arms lowered and the bucket as low as possible to keep the loader stable.
· Keep the attachment level while raising the loader arms.
· Travel straight up or down slopes, with the heavy end of the machine pointed uphill. Never travel across a slope.
· Operate on stable surfaces only to prevent ground or earthen walls from collapsing, causing the loader to tip, and/or bury the operator.
· Road travel with a skid steer loader is not recommended.
More Information
Read the full alert from Nova Scotia Labour and Workforce Development, Occupational Health and Safety
Skid Steer Safety Fact Sheet, Farm Safety Association Inc.
Preventing Injuries and Deaths from Skid Steer Loaders, NIOSH
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Wayne Parker
The basis tire depth gauge
is among the most vital apparatus in the Tire upkeep kit is for the reason that
it has a straight outcome on how much footing you have the benefit of on the
path. If your wheels are powerless to keep their seize on the pavement, you'll
lose command of your van. When the highways are dry, it is not as much of an
matter; after all, it's much easier for the rubber to retain contact when
wetness isn't there.
In dried out surroundings, the air compresses and passes through the thin treads
smoothly. By contrast, water cannot be condensed or passed as easily. This is
why tire producers make groove designs. The arrangement of the groove is devised
to allow water, ice, and sludge to go by via them. But, if the depth of those
grooves is extremely shallow, those elements stay between the rubber plus the
road. That affects your car to hydroplane.
The deepness of tread on each of your tires is vital for van's stability,
specially on moist or icy highways. Contemporary tires have treadwear indicators
built into them to signal truck owners when their tread is excessively depleted
(1/16 of an inch) and tires required to be changed. These indicators are
situated in the grooves of a tire's treads; when the pointers become visible
even with the exterior of the tread, it's stage to get new tires. The confirmed
method of measuring lasting tread depth in the U.S. is through a tire depth
gauge that calculates in 32nds of an inch (other countries calculate tread depth
in millimeters). Normal tire depth gauge measures up to 32/32nds (or 25-26mm) in
view of the fact that almost all passenger car and light truck tires start with
not as much of than one inch of tread depth.
Let us briefly find out step by step approach of how to gauge Tire Tread Depth
using Tire Depth gauge:
Validate which measuring balance you are using. A few tread depth gauges
calculate in 2nds of an inch (left), while others compute in both 32nds of an
inch and millimeters (right). Press the tread depth gauge against a tough, flat
surface to verify it "zeros out" when completely compressed. Thrust the
measuring level into the gauge as remote as it will go. Lay the probe into the
middle of a circumferential tire groove and thrust along on the gauge's foot. Do
not lay the probe on the molded tread wear signs or on any inflated surfaces of
the tread design. Gently detach gauge by grasping its barrel (without moving the
probe) and approve the tread depth valuation. Set the probe into other positions
on all sides of the middle circumferential tire groove at least 15 inches spaced
out and replicate. Place the probe into the inner and exterior circumferential
grooves and repeat. Obtain Mean of all readings. Calculate the proportion of
tire wear by verifying the tire's original tread depth in its specs compared to
the residual tread depth just calculated.
========
Visit my website to learn more about
tire depth gauge and
tire pressure gauge.
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Eric Peters
Once you see the flashing
red lights in your rearview mirror, there's not much you can do about getting
stopped. But how you handle being stopped can sometimes mean the difference
between a warning and a ticket -- or at the very least, a better (or worse)
experience in court.
The Do's:
* Immediately acknowledge the officer by slowing your vehicle and signaling your
intention to pull over. Try to pull as far off the road (and away from traffic)
as possible. By making the stop itself less dangerous and stressful for the
officer, you have set the stage for a civil interaction.
* Once you're pulled over, turn off your engine and put your hazard flashers on
-- so the officer knows you aren't thinking of running. (If you're on a
motorcycle, remove your helmet as soon as you've stopped the bike.)
* If it is dark outside, turn on your vehicle's interior dome light so the
officer can clearly see you; sit calmly and wait for the officer to approach the
vehicle. Keep your hands visible. Even though you are just an Ordinary Joe (or
Jane) and this is just a traffic stop, the officer doesn't know you or your
intentions -- and it's possible you might be a violent criminal with a weapon.
Your goal is to make it clear you're not.
* Answer the officer's questions in even tones and politely. But do not answer
leading questions with admissions of guilt -- which will absolutely be used
against you in court should you decide to contest the ticket.
* If you have any intention of contesting the ticket, do not immediately drive
away once the paperwork has been signed and the officer has departed. Hopefully
you keep a pen or pencil in the vehicle, along with a small notepad. Now is the
time to write down every detail about the stop you can recall, while the event
is still fresh in memory. Jot down things like the exact location of the stop,
whether the speed limit was clearly posted, etc. Anything that may be relevant
to a possible defense. The officer made notes; you should, too.
The Don'ts:
* Don't stop your vehicle in the middle of a busy road; impeding the flow of
traffic won't win you any points for driving skill with the officer -- and he
won't appreciate your making him have to get out and walk up to your vehicle
with other cars whizzing past just feet away.
* Don't attempt to get out of your vehicle (unless the officer ask you to do
so). Never approach the officer or his vehicle. This is a good way to get shot;
at minimum, it will raise tensions -- just the opposite of what you want.
* Don't root around for things in the glovebox or under the seats -- even if all
you are looking for is your insurance and registration paperwork.
* Do not be argumentative. Save it for court. In fact, if you intend to contest
the ticket, it is in your best interests to give the impression that you are the
type of person who will just mail in the fine. Be forgettable. At the least,
you'll likely find the cop barely remembers you personally when your trail date
arrives -- and unless you've given him a reason to personally dislike you, he
probably won't object to a request that the charge be reduced (for example, from
a moving violation with "points" to a non-moving violation that only carries a
fine).
========
www.ericpetersautos.com (or EPeters952@aol.com) for comments
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Eric Peters
Saving gas is really about
saving money - so it's not necessarily a smart move to sell whatever you're
driving now (even if it's a big SUV) in order to buy a more "efficient" car. You
could lose a pile of money on your old vehicle - especially if it's still pretty
new and so still in the steepest part of its depreciation curve. (Which lasts
from the day you drive it home from the dealer until it's about five years old,
fyi.) And if you're spending thousands - maybe tens of thousands - on a new car,
it doesn't necessarily matter how good it is on gas. Money spent is money spent
- on $4 per gallon fuel or a $25,000 "economical" car.
So, what can you do to ease the pinch a little? You might be surprised. And the
good news is it probably won't cost you anything - yet could save you a bunch.
Smooth and steady driving - What burns the most gas is getting your
vehicle moving, not keeping it moving. So the longer you can maintain forward
momentum without coming to a complete stop, the less fuel you will consume. For
example, try to anticipate red-green traffic lights cycles - and keep your
vehicle moving just fast enough that you get to the next red just as it's about
to go green. Let it coast gradually, using its own momentum; then pick up speed
again as traffic ahead begins to move forward. Try to accelerate - and
decelerate - gradually and smoothly. The main thing is to try to avoid having to
come to a complete stop whenever it's possible to do so while still maintaining
decent speed and not being obnoxious to other drivers. In city-suburban traffic,
this is very doable. It's also kind of relaxing, actually. And not only will you
save a surprising amount of gas, you'll notice your brakes and tires last
longer, too.
Taking advantage of the "sweet spot" - Your car's sweet spot - the speed
at which it is most fuel-efficient - is approximately 45-50 mph. This just
happens to coincide with the speed limit on many secondary roads. By choosing a
more roundabout route, you can enjoy the scenery as well as up your MPGs.
Traffic congestion has also reduced the average rush hour speeds on highways in
and around major population hubs - making it feasible to drive more slowly than
the fastest-moving traffic without being a pain in the neck to your fellow
motorists. Just be sure to keep right - and yield to faster moving traffic.
Making yourself slippery - Not in the political sense; the aerodynamic
one. The less your vehicle has to fight its way through a wall of air, the lower
its fuel consumption will be. If you drive a pick-up truck, for example, you can
swap out the tailgate for a mesh net that holds cargo just as effectively - but
allows the air that would otherwise be pushing against the raised tailgate to
slip right on by. If you have a car, keep the windows rolled up - and use your
air conditioner. It is more energy efficient than keeping the windows open at
highway speeds - which creates drag, which forces your engine to burn more fuel
than it otherwise would need to. Even with the AC on. And if you have a vehicle
with roof racks that can be easily removed, consider removing them - especially
if you rarely use them anyhow. The less clutter on your car's exterior, the more
efficient its shape will be - and the less fuel it will consume.
Getting into overdrive - Perhaps the single best improvement,
efficiency-wise, of the past 25 years is the overdrive transmission. Simply put,
in top gear, an overdrive transmission reduces the engine speed (RPMs) that
would otherwise be necessary to maintain that speed. A modern car with an
overdrive transmission can truck along at 65 mph with its engine barely turning
over a fast idle (under 2,000 RPMs) while an otherwise similar car from the
1970s without an overdrive would have its engine spinning 800-1,000 RPMs faster
at the same road speed - and burning up a lot more gas. You can make the most of
overdrive by using it as much as possible - without lugging the engine, of
course. Most modern cars can be shifted into OD at around 40 mph on a level road
- and have enough available power to maintain that speed without having to
downshift. With a manual-equipped car you can do this for yourself, of course.
But it's also possible to encourage an automatic to shift up into OD at around
40-45 mph by simply easing back on the gas - at which point the transmission
should slide into overdrive. (You can tell this has happened by watching your
tachometer and noting the
RPM drop.) If you have an automatic-equipped car with a "sport"
setting, only use it when you want to have fun. Otherwise, you'll be wasting gas
as the "sport" setting typically causes the transmission to hold gears longer
before upshifting and may even lock out overdrive completely.
Add some air - By now you have probably heard about the importance of not
driving on under-inflated tires. Fuel economy can drop by as much as 5-10
percent if you do. Well, another way to save even more gas is to inflate your
tires to the maximum recommended pressure listed on the sidewall - which may be
a couple of PSI higher than the "normal" pressure listed in your owner's manual. This
will decrease rolling resistance - so your car will get going (and stay going)
more easily and with less fuel consumption. The same trick is used by some
hybrid vehicles and other ultra-efficiency cars to wring out the best-possible
mileage. The downside is you'll notice the ride quality may suffer - and your
tires might not last as long as they used to. But if you can eke an extra couple
of MPGs out of your car, the savings could make the trade-off worth it.
========
www.ericpetersautos.com or
EPeters952@aol.com for comments.

Sam Downs
Here we discuss a few fuel
saving tips to save on your cars fuel economy:
• Drive slowly. An increase of every five miles over the speed limit costs you
an extra twenty cents per gallon. It's not what any of us would want to hear,
but driving carefully and within the speed limit can save fuel and save lives,
as well.
• Tune up your car properly to make it in great operating condition to improve
the fuel efficiency. A poorly tuned engine can add more than 40% to your gas
usage!
• Use cruise control whenever appropriate-it helps increase the mileage more
than you think.
• Do not carry around useless things in your car because extra weight will use
up more gas. The lesser weight of the car, the less you will need to accelerate.
• An obvious way to save fuel is by using your car less! There are many
instances where you won't need your car, after all. You can walk, ride a bike or
ride the bus in many instances. Join or organize car pools so that your
neighbors and friends can take the same trip at less. Plan your trips
efficiently, and combine errands in one drive, so you don't have to go back.
Plan your route wisely, choose the shortest route and avoid heavy traffic and
those with plenty of traffic light stops.
• Use your accessories more sparingly. One of the worst gas burner is the air
conditioner. Lights, defrosters, and other accessories add to the gas bill, as
well.
• If you believe that opening your windows as compared to turning on your AC is
more energy efficient, you are wrong. Opening your windows will increase the
turbulence, increasing your fuel costs. Thus if it gets hot, better turn on your
air conditioning rather and close down your windows.
• Drive only fuel-efficient vehicles. Smaller cars always consume less gas and
give better mileage than the larger cars, unless if they are equipped with
powerful engines. Look for the smallest car that can meet your needs, and as
much as possible, opt only for a four cylinder engine.
• Shift to manual! Manual transmission is better when it comes to mileage as
compared to automatic, so learn to drive a stick if you don't know how to. If
you have a manual transmission car already, learn to shift up early and shift
down late.
• Another tip to saving fuel is to brake the right way. Your car consumes more
gas at it accelerates. A car moving at a constant speed does not require much
gasoline in order to keep moving. This simply means that in order to improve
mileage, keep the ride as smooth as possible. Control your speed and do not keep
on speeding and slamming on the brakes. Learn to anticipate things on the road
to ease off on the gas.
• When the car is idling, it still uses a considerate amount of gas especially
if air conditioning is turned on. Thus, turn off your car if it is on idle for
more than 20 seconds.
========
Sam is the owner of Turborevs
xenon headlights. You can find more information on BMW angel eyes and
Car Alarm.

Is the latest auto
technology a threat to your privacy?
A strange question at first glance, perhaps, but it's no coincidence so many
new-car commercials show a solitary driver escaping civilization along some
lonesome desert, mountain or prairie road.
Americans love cars and one of the things they treasure most is the privacy they
provide.
But they also love convenience. And that clash promises to bring strife to
Americans' love affair with the automobile: Convenience versus privacy.
"What is a car? The freedom on an open road to do as you please," says Beth
Givens, founder and director of the Privacy Rights Clearinghouse. Larry Ponemon,
founder and chairman of the Ponemon Institute, which advises businesses and the
government on privacy and ethical information management, agrees. "It's a sacred
place where we can sing, we can make private phone calls. For the most part
people don't worry about their privacy when they're in the car -- they're home."
But as technological gizmos such as global positioning systems (GPS) can make
cars physically safer and more convenient, they can make driving less safe from
a privacy perspective.
"The freedom to travel is one of the most fundamental freedoms in a democratic
society, and that's something you should be able to do without your every move
being tracked," says Jay Stanley, communications director of the technology and
liberty program of the American Civil Liberties Union.
Privacy advocates acknowledge the benefits of auto technology while cautioning
about their potential for allowing (an expected) freedom sting. Here's how some
of today's electronic auto gadgets could be used to invade your privacy:
The black box
Nearly everyone knows about flight data recorders on airplanes, but news to many
consumers is that most newer cars have a similar device. These black boxes (AKA
event data recorders or crash data recorders) can capture vehicle speed, brake
action, shift position, engine speed, change of speed over time, airbag
deployment, seatbelt use and other data just before or after a crash.
On the pro side, black boxes accelerate safety by providing information experts
use to improve cars and roads. Also, simple knowledge about the device may be
enough to get some people to think thrice about risky driving moves.
What frustrates privacy advocates most is this: "All of a sudden you're involved
in a situation with your car and you didn't know it was really spying on you,"
Givens says, noting that attorneys and insurance companies are well aware of the
data and already are using it in legislation.
"Some car safety people are pushing for all cars to be equipped with [black
boxes]," notes Richard M. Smith, a privacy and security consultant. Smith
explains that adding the devices is "not a big deal" from either a technical or
financial standpoint. "It's really a crapshoot; it's very unclear who this
helps," he says, pointing out that ownership of the data and how it's
interpreted (or misinterpreted) are potential issues.
Money savings may convince consumers to give up a little privacy. Through a
Minnesota pilot program, some insurance policyholders of the Progressive
Casualty Insurance Co., allow their driving habits to be tracked.
The tracking device, which spokesman William Perry says doesn't actually involve
a black box, acts like one by recording mileage, speed and time of day.
Customers willing to share that information can save 5 to 25 percent off the
cost of their next policy. It's all in the name of accurate pricing, Perry
explains.
Radio frequency ID chips
RFID chips allow everyday objects to "talk" to each other.
"I'm very concerned about expansion of radio frequency ID in cars," Givens says.
"We could literally be tracked everywhere we drive." Highway systems are
equipped with RFID signal readers, and tire manufacturers have started
implanting chips in tires to help spot failures and track tires for recall
purposes.
Toll booth speed pass systems also incorporate the technology and can record a
person's whereabouts. "Of course, 99 percent of the time it doesn't really
matter," says ACLU's
Stanley.
"It becomes another data point on that individual. But on rare occasions it
could matter to you."
And sufficient privacy protections haven't yet been put in place, he adds.
Secondary use of RFID data concerns Smith, too. One example of "feature creeper"
is in the Orlando,
Fla., area, where, beginning in May 2005, roadside RFID
readers will trace the travel time of individual cars, creating an average trip
time that can be communicated to other drivers.
"Most people just think about the benefits of having [speed pass]," Givens says.
But driver data could be connected to other records -- and the data have already
been used in divorce and child custody disputes. Not to mention, the data also
could be used to nab individuals for speeding.
Global positioning systems
Divorce attorneys and private detectives wouldn't mind getting their hands on
navigational system records, either. What better way to prove or disprove a
spouse's location? Subscribers to
GPS technology services have
access to maps and driving directions as needed, and companies like OnStar also
offer stolen vehicle and roadside assistance. OnStar call centers can even
listen in on a car, should it be stolen or the driver needs help.
"Most people think that this is an excellent technology and it's worth money to
pay for it," says Ponemon. "But you're basically providing information on where
you are at any point in time. In safe hands that information is probably okay
for each of us, (but) it can be used against people who may not want to reveal
where they are."
"They kind of control your car," Smith says, noting that companies like OnStar
have no particular reason to spy on their customers, but in some cases they have
been required -- under subpoena -- to provide that information." OnStar's
privacy policy is upfront about stating that information will be used to respond
to regulatory and legal requirements. In some cases, drivers don't even know
they're being tracked through GPS. Law enforcement officials have gotten
warrants to attach GPS devices to the cars of suspects, Givens says. While many
might find that a desirable feature, a stalker could use
GPS to keep tabs on a victim.
Some rental car companies have also used the technology, charging customers
additional fees for speeding or exceeding certain boundaries. California
legislation prohibits companies from using
GPS without the customer's consent, and in
Connecticut a court ruled that
one rental car company's speeding fines were illegal. But experts say the issue
isn't closed.
Risks and rewards
"There's no absolute right to privacy," Ponemon cautions. "None of this
information, when it's collected, is absolutely protected."
And Givens adds, "The problem is that there will always be other uses found for
[the data]."
And if the day comes where drivers rely too much on auto gizmos, a technology
failure could cause havoc. As could an outright technology shutdown; the Bush
administration has recently announced that the nation's GPS infrastructure could
be turned off in the event of an attack, since terrorists could tap into the
systems.
"I'd be afraid of technology that shuts my car off," Ponemon says, imagining
that he's on a highway when someone pushes a button that could cause his car,
which may be relying too much on technology-based systems, to crash.
Still, privacy advocates recognize the plus side of technologies that improve
safety and enhance the driver's experience. "I think that the benefits outweigh
the costs and the risk, but there need to be privacy and security safeguards,"
Ponemon says.
Stanley adds, "Most technologies have good uses and we want to be able to [use
them] without worrying about them being used against us."
Thanks for
reading!
Sincerely,
ArcaMax Editors
ArcaMax
Publishing websites:
www.arcamax.com (Family-Friendly News & Fun)
www.bookdaily.com (Book Samples for Book Lovers)
![]()
JD Rodgers
Help your teenage person
obtain their Learner's Permit, or perhaps the comparative in the area and still
provide LOTS of experience during the year.
Demand twelve months of driving experience by having a Learner's Permit before
you decide to allow your son or daughter to take the driver's test.
Incorporate Parent Taught Drivers Education experiences driving using a full
range of situations. Please don't solely practice driving on sunny afternoons.
Go out in the evening, when it's raining--in a multitude of circumstances. Or
else, the first time your brand new driver runs into these kinds of
circumstances, will probably be whenever you are not with him or her.
Give some thought to Parent Taught Drivers Ed. A great number teens are tutored
to drive by individuals with less experience: Many of us aren't expert motorists
and most of us are usually not competent instructors. Consequently, there could
possibly be benefits in hunting down a professional parent taught drivers ed
package to the young guy or girl.
Be prepared to set strong policies and stay with all of them. Start out strict
and loosen up rules after a while and your teen does very well. Tighten them up
if he or she does poorly.
Emphasize seat belt use.
Ensure your teenager gets plenty of rest prior to driving. There's justification
to believe that many accidents are related to drivers who have not slept enough.
Constrain the quantity of passengers, primarily in the beginning. This is
certainly relevant because the chance of an automobile accident goes up greatly
with much younger drivers with passengers.
Do not permit your child to ride with a brand new driver. This article concerns
your teen driver. But, clearly, the passengers of any teen driver are at the
very least precisely the same threat as the teenage driver.
Get smart with regards to automobile situation. In the event you buy a car for
any young person to drive: Good, reasonably safe and sound, and un-fun
automobile. Check collision test facts. Please do not let your teenager "own" an
auto. Permit your person in his teens to "drive a family vehicle"-Make use of
this kind of language even if you buy an extra auto. Analysis shows that teens
drive far more safely and securely with a car or truck they don't consider to be
their own.
Produce, mandate, discuss, and enforce a written agreement.
No contract = No self-governing driving. End of Discussion.
========
Additional information can be found at Parent Blog sites like
Parent Taught Drivers Ed. Or additional sites like
Drivers Ed Parent Taught.

Michael Enfield
In order to protect
drivers and passengers, automotive manufacturers began experimenting with the
idea of creating a "cushion" in the event of an accident. In 1967, Dr. David S.
Breed invented the ball-in-tube inertial sensor for crash detection. Breed
marketed the item to Chrysler and, over the years, it has become the modern day
airbag. The National Highway Traffic and Safety Administration (NHTSA) estimate
that airbags have prevented 25,782 deaths over the past 11 years.
Frontal Airbags - Front airbags are typically kept in an automobile's steering
wheel. In the event of collision, they should deploy immediately and then
rapidly deflate. The purpose of frontal airbags is to reduce the force of impact
a driver comes into contact with the interior of their car. Without airbags,
drivers would be forced to collide with the hard steering wheel, frequently
causing broken ribs, head trauma, or death. Frontal airbags are not intended to
provide protection in the event of a rollover or side collision.
Three generations of airbags exist. The safest was released in 2003 and became
standardized in 2007. Older vehicles likely contain out-of-date technology;
however, if you take your vehicle to its manufacturer, they can update your
system.
Side-Impact Airbags - Side impact airbags are intended to provide protection for
drivers' and passengers' head and chest in the event of a side-impact collision.
There are three types of side-impact air bags: torso, head, and head/torso
combination. While they are not required for new vehicles, they are a popular
safety feature.
Dangers - While airbags are designed to protect passengers and increase
automotive safety, defective airbags can cause serious injury. If an airbag
fails to deploy in the event of an accident, occupants may incur injuries from
impacting hard surfaces in the interior of their car. Additionally, if an airbag
deploys randomly and unprovoked, drivers may sustain injuries to their face and
torso due to the high pressure of deployment. In order to minimize your risks of
injury from airbags:
• Always wear your seatbelt, as airbags are not an adequate replacement
• Always seat children under 12 years of age in the back of a vehicle
• Leave at least 10 inches of room between the air bag cover (typically steering
wheel) and your chest
While these steps will help minimize your risk of injury, there is no guarantee.
Liability - If you have been the victim of a defective airbag, your vehicle's
manufacturer may be liable for any damages you incurred.
========
For more information about airbag safety and liability,
contact the
New York City car accident lawyers of Parker Waichman Alonso, LLP today.
******************
Eric Peters
Turns out high quality and
superb reliability are not such good things - for the car companies, anyhow. The
word is out that you don't have to sign up for five (or six or seven) years of
crushing monthly car payments - plus the insurance, plus the property taxes - on
a brand-new car in order to drive a trouble-free, looks-like-new car. Because
today's used cars are that good.
After a solid quarter century of really working at it, the automakers have
achieved the Nearly Indestructible Car. The make/model hardly matters. Treated
even semi-decently, most any car built after about model year 2000 can be
counted on to go for 200,000 miles or more of mostly trouble-free driving. The
best ones are barely broken in with 50,000 miles on the clock. Clutches that
once burned up in three or four years now last 10 - or even the lifetime of the
vehicle. Engines are built to such close tolerances and with such precision that
they still feel as tight after eight or ten years of service as they did the day
they were first fired up. It is truly miraculous.
And you can buy such a four-wheeled miracle for half the price of a new one -
and enjoy almost all of the perks of the new car with virtually none of the
former downsides of buying used. (Ok, you may have to accept a stain on the
carpet.) It's an ironic - and economically devastating Catch-22.
For years, Detroit
especially was relentlessly hectored about new cars that began to smoke and use
oil at 40,000 miles, paint that faded within three years of leaving the dealer's
lot and bodies that began to rust before the final payment was sent in.
Well, they fixed all that. Problem (for them) is they've undercut 90-plus
percent of the reason for buying a new car. And it's showing.
Even before the economic implosion, new car sales were stagnating - while the
number of used cars in circulation was increasing. Partly, this is because used
cars just last and last and last.
Go back to the '80s and before and it was fairly rare to see a car more than
about ten years old still in service as a daily driver - because by then, most
were unreliable junk and ready for the crusher.
Today, about a third of all the cars on the road are eight years old or older
(according to AAA) and still going strong. Cars 12-15 years old with
150,000-plus miles are everywhere. And they still have plenty of life in them.
Like the Energizer Bunny, they just run and run and run and run.
Is it any wonder that people are holding onto them? Especially these days, when
any sane person not already a member of the plutocracy is being very careful
about spending money they don't absolutely have to?
The men and women inside the car industry know the situation - but how to fix
it? They can't very well start making crappy cars again. It would just give
people yet another reason to hang onto Old Faithful indefinitely.
Making new cars a better deal, financially, would definitely help - but that,
too, has become an impossibility. It'd be great if you could order a new car and
skip the airbags, for example - and save yourself about $2,000 off the sticker
price. But Uncle Sam won't allow the automakers to do that. The government would
rather see the automakers go bust than allow them to make economically sensible
marketing (and engineering) changes to their products.
Localities that hammer new car buyers with confiscatory property taxes (which
can be $1,000 or more every year for the first several years if the new car in
question is a high-dollar one) aren't going to ease off, either.
Neither will the insurance companies - which make the most money writing
full-coverage policies on heavily leveraged new cars - not older, paid-for cars
whose owners can choose a bare-bones liability-only policy and save themselves
thousands of dollars.
So, there's no good way out of this thing - not for the automakers, at least.
The assembly lines could be turned off completely for the next ten years and it
would have very little meaningful effect. Transportation would not be impeded;
vast sums would be saved. Only that new car smell would be missing. And for more
and more of us, that's just not worth paying full freight for anymore.
========
www.ericpetersautos.com or
EPeters952@aol.com for comments.
***********************
Mark Etinger
If you're moving things by
trailer or truck, especially valuables, it's very important that they be secured
safely. Many drivers don't use enough straps or just don't use them the right
way. When it comes to ratchet tie down straps and truck tie downs, you can't cut
any corners, because damage can be irreparable. So here are some tips that will
help you truck your cargo safely, wherever it needs to go.
1. The first rule of cargo securement is to know the characteristics of your
cargo. This really refers to the weight and the value of the object at hand.
After you know these criteria, it is just as important to know the capacity of
your truck tie downs. The sum of the working load ratings should equal one half
of the cargo's weight. Although figuring this out for each item may seem like a
lot of work, it will save you time when you are on the road, re-strapping or
during inspections, and finally when you arrive at your destination.
2. No matter how heavy your cargo is that doesn't mean that it will stay in
place; it only means that it takes more energy to get it moving, and once it
does, watch out. Make sure to use enough truck tie downs for your load
securement. Inspect them at the beginning of your journey and intermittently
during to make sure that they are properly tied and that there is no room for
movement or slippage. Ideally this should be about every three hours, or every
150 miles.
3. Watch how your load binders are in place. If there are any sharp corners that
could cut or weaken your load securement, it might be best to re-strap your
cargo in another way. To avoid damage of your shipment, look for securement
points, especially on equipment. Improper cargo securement can damage your load
and put your own life in danger if there is, for example, a chain running
against a hydraulic hose causing the loss of oil.
4. There is a rule that requires truck tie downs for every 10 feet of flat cargo
loaded in your trailer, and every 8 feet for flat metal cargoes.
5. Truck tie downs angles are also important to proper load securement. The best
angle is 45 degrees because it clamps the load to the truck and prevents it from
sliding around whereas a flat chain only does the latter.
6. Even distribution of your load is also important because too much weight on
the front can affect steering while too much on the back can affect braking.
7. Some shippers have their own requirements for their cargo. Follow them - you
don't want to pay the price later.
Remember, it's not just the cargo that you're responsible for, it's your life
and the lives of others. If your load securement is not properly managed it
could cause weight shifts that result in life or death accidents or
multi-million dollar lawsuits. But following these guidelines will help you
secure whatever load you are shipping safely and properly.
========
DC Cargo Mall sells everything you need for
load securement. From winch straps and ratchet tie down straps to load
binders and other forms of
cargo securement, they have it all.

Eric Peters
Summer weather is coming,
but is your car ready for the road - and summertime heat?
* Lights and signals - Have a helper do a "walk-around" of your vehicle as you
tap the brakes, turn on the headlights/high beams, activate the turn signals and
emergency flashers. Replace any burned-out bulbs (be sure to check the small
LEDs that many cars have for the "third brake light"). It's safer if all your
lights/signals are working properly - and you'll avoid getting pulled over for a
"defective equipment" ticket.
Tip: if you hit any bad potholes over the winter (or had a minor fender-bender
accident) it's a good idea to have the car's headlights checked for proper
alignment/aim. Any shop that does state safety inspections can do this for you.
* Wipe blades/washer fluid - If the blades haven't been replaced since last
fall, it's likely they're doing more streaking than clearing by now. A new set
of blades is a small price to pay to see where you're going in a downpour. New
blades are not hard to install - and if you prefer not to do it yourself, some
car parts stores (Advance Auto, for example) will do it for you free of charge
if you purchase the blades there.
Tip: Top off the washer fluid jar while you're at it.
* Tires - Check all four for proper inflation and any signs of deterioration or
physical damage, such as cracks or bulges in the sidewall, tears or nails in the
tread. Never drive on under-inflated, damaged - or worn out - tires. And don't
forget to check the condition of the spare, too - including its pressure, if
it's a standard/full-size tire. A flat spare tire is not much better than no
spare at all. Also: Make sure you've got an appropriate lug nut wrench and jack
to raise the car, if the need arises. People sometimes take out the factory
jack/lug wrench to clean the trunk - or make some extra room - then forget to
put these important items back where they belong.
Tip: Buy a can of aerosol inflator/sealant (such as Fix-a-Flat) and keep it in
the car. It can be extremely dangerous to try to change a tire by the side of a
busy road. The inflator/sealant will allow you to temporarily repair/re-inflate
the tire in just a minute or two and let you drive the car to a tire shop for a
proper fix or a new tire. Be sure to tell the tire shop you have used the
aerosol inflator so they can take precautions when repairing the tire.
* AC service - Early spring is the best time time to check the operation of your
car's air conditioning system. If it doesn't begin to blow cold air almost as
soon as it's turned on (or you think it doesn't feel as cold as it used to), the
system may have developed a slow leak and be low on refrigerant - or have some
other problem that developed over the winter. Beat the inevitable rush of people
to the shop by checking your AC system before it gets really hot - and you
really need it.
Tip: Next winter, try to run the AC system for five minutes or so once every few
weeks. This will circulate refrigerant and the lubricant that's in it, which
will help keep the AC system is good shape longer. It's not necessary to have
the temperature setting on "cold" - just so long as the AC is on, which will
cycle the compressor and circulate the refrigerant.
* Muffler and exhaust - Road salt eats metal almost as quickly as it melts snow
on the road. Mufflers and exhaust pipes are especially vulnerable - particularly
if they aren't stainless steel. If your vehicles is more than four or five years
old, it's a good idea to check the physical condition of the exhaust system for
any signs of structural problems, such as looseness of any component or visible
damage. Any change in the sound of your vehicle's exhaust (it's louder all of a
sudden, or there's a new rattle, etc. ) means it's time to have it checked over
before you take any extended trips. A damaged/worn-out exhaust system can be
dangerous to you (carbon monoxide could leak into the car's interior) and other
motorists (your old muffler/pipes could fall off while you're driving and
hit/damage the vehicle behind you).
Tip: If you notice a rotten egg smell, your catalytic converter may not be
working properly, or your engine's emissions controls may need service. Don't
delay getting it checked as a ruined catalytic converter that needs to be
replaced can be a big expense.
* Battery and charging system - If your vehicle (or the battery that's in it) is
more than about four years old, it's wise to have the condition of the battery
checked by your dealer (or mechanic) before you find yourself needing jumper
cables - or AAA. While batteries can last as long as six or even seven years
under light-load conditions, on average, they tend to begin losing their ability
to hold a full charge after about 4-5 years of "normal" (that is, every day)
service.
Tip: Keep a set of jumper cables in the trunk. You may never need them - but
will be very happy to have them if you ever do.
* Vehicle registration/inspections/insurance - Be sure all your "paperwork" is
up to date and available/on display before heading out of state (or even out of
the driveway). That includes current vehicle registration and property tax
stickers, insurance card and state safety inspection decal (where applicable).
Many people inadvertently forget about one or more of these items - and end up
getting an expensive ticket for their trouble.
Tip: Place all paperwork in an envelope rather than leave it loose in the
glovebox. It will make finding what you need much simpler (and less stressful)
during a traffic stop or after an accident.
* Glovebox stuff - It's a smart move to keep a small writing pad, along with
pencils (not pens, which can dry out) in your glovebox, so you'll have a way to
write down important stuff like details about a traffic stop (which can be very
useful in court if you decide to fight a traffic ticket), an address or phone
number - and so on. If you're like me and don't have a cell phone, consider
buying one of those "emergency use" cell phones that can be used to dial 911.
Another great glovebox item to have available is a small bottle of aspirin (or
equivalent) and two or three dollars in loose change (not bills) so you'll have
a way to use coin-operated vending machines (and phones) if that's all that's
available - and they don't take plastic or paper money.
========
www.ericpetersautos.com or
EPeters952@aol.com for comments.
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Edward Smith
It is important to keep
your oil at the correct level to help safeguard and prolong the life of movable
engine components. If your engine does not have sufficient oil, it may be
seriously damaged, occasionally beyond repair. You should try and check your oil
levels each week; if you spot leaks on your drive or car port floor, or if the
vehicle appears to be losing an abnormal amount of oil, you may have an engine
leak.
Additionally, you will need to change your oil and oil filter no less than once
a year; a few manufactures suggest changing the oil every 3,000 kilometers to
keep maximum performance.
Examining the Oil
Looking at your oil level is a fairly simple procedure.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and wait for the engine to cool down to
ensure that the oil has time to settle into the sump.
2. Open and secure the bonnet.
3. Find the dipstick; this will normally be close to the front of the engine at
one side. It often has a brightly coloured handle (red, yellow or orange) that
will help you find it.
4. Pull the dipstick out of its tube and wipe it clean with a clean rag.
5. Push the dipstick gradually all the way into its tube, and after that pull it
out again.
6. Look at the oil level on the dipstick; it ought to be in between the upper
and bottom limits marked on the dipstick.
7. If the level is close to the bottom mark, or below it, you'll need to top up.
Whilst you're checking the oil level, take a look at the colour of the oil. If
it's very dark brown or black, it will need to be changed. If the oil is milky
or coffee coloured, then it means that the engine coolant has become mixed with
the oil, indicating a significant engine problem like a blown cylinder head
gasket.
Topping Up the Oil
1. Find the oil filler cap, that is usually on top of the motor, clearly marked
'oil'.
2. Unscrew the cap very carefully and place to one side.
3. Pour in about a litre of oil, utilizing a funnel if required. You need to
ensure that you use the same type and brand of engine oil that is already in the
engine.
4. Wait a minute for the oil to drain down to the bottom of the engine, and
recheck the dipstick level using the method shown above.
5. Repeat until the oil level is approximately halfway between the minimum and
maximum marks on the dipstick. On the other hand, you have to take care not to
overfill, as this could cause leaks.
6. Replace the dipstick and close the oil filler cap.
========
Edward's latest site gives information and advice about buying a
Jura coffee maker or a
JURA Impressa.
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Eric Peters
Ever buy a gold-plated
hammer with hand-stitched leather handle? Probably not. It's an appliance,
right? A tool to get a specific job done. We'd either laugh at - or be disgusted
by - a person who bought a $400 gold-plated, leather-wrapped hammer when a $25
hammer would do the job as well or better - and leave us $375 richer.
So what is it with cars? Aren't they appliances also? Isn't the main reason for
owing one to have a machine that can safely and comfortably take us where we
need to go? What about all the rest of it - you know, the stuff we buy into but
which we probably need as much as that gold-plated hammer?
* 4x4 SUVs - Gas prices are causing people to rethink what they probably should
have been thinking about 10 years ago. Don't go off-roading much? Then why are
you spending money to own machinery (the 4x4 gear) you never, or almost never,
use? Do you also buy expensive stuff at the supermarket and then just put it on
the shelf and look at it instead of eating it?
* 150 mph top speed capability - We're right in the middle of the second High
Tide of Horsepower (the first being the mid-late 1960s) and while I like the
idea of doing 150 mph as much as any performance enthusiast, the reality is that
actually doing it is next to impossible (or really ill-advised) unless we have
access to a race track. Driving faster than about 80 mph in most states will get
you a huge ticket if caught; driving 100 mph or faster will probably land you in
jail. So why do we spend fifty, sixty seventy thousand dollars to buy a car that
we pretty much can't use - and which if we do use, could buy us OJ Simpson
levels of legal grief?
* 18, 19 and 20-inch rims that cost $300 (and up) each - Many of us have more
invested in our car's wheels and tires than it takes to make a down payment on a
decent condo. Why? So we can bask in the envy of total strangers who may think
we're "cool" because we can afford to spend (or more likely, borrow) a pile of
money to shoe our commutin' steed with overpriced rims? These rims are also
relatively fragile and easily damaged by potholes and rubbing up against curbs -
common road hazards. And the tires for rims this size can cost twice what a
standard tire costs- and only last half as long, due to their softer compounds.
* In-car multimedia - The price of equipment such as GPS navigation, DVD players
and so on can easily add up to more than we used to pay for an entire car. Some
of this is understandable if you are a long-haul driver who routinely goes to
new and unfamiliar areas (GPS). But the rest of it? Whatever happened to
counting headlights or blue cars? Why does the Boob Tube and vacuous, Pixar-generated
mind rot have to be an omnipresence? As much as we complain about the high cost
of gas, if we elected not to buy all this expensive, elaborate - and mostly
unnecessary - electronic equipment we'd have thousands more in our bank accounts
and $3 per gallon wouldn't hurt nearly as much.
* Power door/trunk closers - Americans seemingly will do anything to avoid
manual effort of any kind - and that includes having to exert the energy needed
to close a door or liftgate on muscle power alone. It's one thing if you're
handicapped - or have short arms that make it hard to reach the liftgate when
it's up. But these power closers have become mass market items used in cars
driven by perfectly normal - and at least theoretically, perfectly able -
people. A better example of consumption for its own sake would be hard to find.
The potential list is almost endless - and gets more so with each new model
year. The automakers have perfected the essential technology of the car - which
means they ought to be getting less expensive, not more so. But because we have
been conditioned to believe we need an ever-expanding array of features,
equipment and technology, vehicles that should cost us less, in real terms, than
the cars our parents and grandparents were buying actually cost two or three
times as much.
Perhaps the worst part is that even those us not mesmerized by the ethos of
consumption purveyed by the automaker's PR arms end up having to buy at least
some of the price-padding fluff being added to new cars. Because market pressure
raises the bar each year for what "ought" to be included in the base price of
every new car. GPS is an example. Formerly a high-end option on high-end cars
only, it is now filtering down to inexpensive cars in the $20k range - and
almost certainly will become a de facto standard within five years. So will the
increased MSRP that comes with it - even if you don't want the
GPS.
And so it goes. Whether it makes sense - and whether we actually need any of
this stuff - is almost beside the point.
========
www.ericpetersautos.com or
EPeters952@aol.com for comments.
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Tips For Driving on Unfamiliar Roads
http://www.arcamax.com/automotive/s-709988-397225
CN Pong
Driving on an
unfamiliar road can result in an accident if the driver does not have the
confidence or knowledge on the specific road. The traffic condition could also
vary from the normal traffic that we are used to. Here are some tips on how to
gain confidence when driving on different roads:
1 - Know the local traffic law - This could become handy when you are on the
road. Knowing of the local traffic law can give you an insight of what kinds of
traffic that you might encounter. By this way, you could have the preparations
earlier if something bad were to happen. Some town may have small roundabouts,
new road signs or even bizarre junctions. Know them so that you could drive
confidently.
2 - Be aware of your environment - This applies especially if you had decided to
drive in rural areas or federal roads. For some reason, having a flock of sheep
on the road is common among the locals, but a strange thing for us. Scan your
surrounding for any herds of animals that might be on the side of the road. If
you are driving on the edge of the woods, be mindful of what might jumped to the
middle of the road since it is close to wild habitat.
3 - Familiarize with maps and landmarks - One of the best ways to drive with
confidence is to have well versed of the local town map or to be familiarized
with local landmark. This would help you to pin point your current location so
that you could easily identify your destination. When taking a hint on the local
traffic law with the law enforcers, also enquire on the landmarks which are
available there.
4 - Use the good old GPS navigation system - Spending a few thousand ringgits on
gadgets like these would save your time. It can tell your current location, your
destination, local diners and even hotels within range. Mobility would not be a
problem since you already know where you are going (or you are being told of
where to go to). But make sure to download the latest map version of the places
you are visiting, or it is completely useless since maps were not uploaded or
not updated.
5 - Ask the local around - Sometimes, the best way is to ask people around.
Forget about our egos, just go ahead and ask. Not only that we will be mixing
with the locals, we would give the impression of our friendliness. People will
assist when we are in dire assistance and do not forget to smile when doing it.
========
CN Pong recommends to use 701Panduan, a
Malaysia online
business directory with comprehensive details with company info, Malaysia city
guides and maps.
Log on to search for
car navigation systems
shops and get free information on
car driving tips
today.
**************
Eric Peters
Toyota has been reeling
from the public relations fallout of tag-team recalls affecting millions of its
vehicles, including the best-selling Camry sedan and Prius hybrid. But does this
mean Toyota vehicles are bad cars? Not necessarily. And, they may be very good
buys these days - which is something to keep in mind.
First, let's put things in context: The recall reality is less severe than the
non-stop media coverage might lead you to believe. Toyota sells more than
400,000 Camrys every year; millions of these cars on the road. But the number of
specific complaints involving Camrys (and other Toyota models) is literally a
fraction of this number. Accidents attributed to problems such as sticking gas
pedals/unwanted acceleration number fewer than 100; serious and injuries (and
deaths) under 25.
This isn't to minimize the fact that some people have had problems; but the fact
is most people - more than 99 percent of Toyota owners, to be precise - have not
had problems. Millions upon millions of them.
This is true of almost all recalls. Even the really alarming ones that still
echo through history - such as the Exploding Pintos of the 1970s. Do you recall
how many people actually died? Twenty-seven. How many Pintos were recalled? In
excess of 1.5 million. You do the math.
Again, this isn't to say the Pinto didn't have a design defect (it did) or that
it wasn't potentially dangerous (it was). But the point here is that the actual
risk of any given Pinto driving being immolated or even injured as a result of
this defect was extremely low - on the order of fractions of a percent.
With the Toyotas, the problem is even less potentially risky since the defect
(sticky gas pedals/unwanted acceleration) is something the driver can easily
deal with should it arise: If the car suddenly speeds up or won't slow down
because of unwanted acceleration, put the transmission in neutral. This will
disconnect the racing engine from the drive wheels; the car physically cannot
"accelerate" once this is done. The engine won't be damaged (electronics will
keep it from over-revving) and you will be able to slow/stop the car safely.
The relative handful of people who have been in accidents or injured as a result
of unwanted acceleration were apparently never taught to do this. Had they been
taught, it is likely the number of actual accidents involving Toyota vehicles
would have been even smaller - and the number of injuries next to nil.
So, yes, there's a potential issue with some Toyota vehicles. But, bottom line,
it is extremely unlikely that your Toyota will suddenly accelerate on its own.
And if it does, you can easily and safely deal with it by popping the
transmission into neutral.
A potentia hassle? Sure. But a very small potential hassle. And one that's not
necessarily dangerous, either - if you remember the part about just putting the
gearshift lever into neutral.
On the other hand, you will almost certainly be able to buy a new Toyota for
less than MSRP sticker - or negotiate a sweetheart deal on a lease. Very
possibly, a lot less. Or an even sweeter deal on a lease than you might have
ever thought possible.
Just three months ago,
Toyota
dealers were asking - and getting - full MSRP sticker, plus some more, on
popular models like the Prius. Toyota rarely, if ever, offered significant
financial incentives such as the thousand-of-dollars cash-back offers commonly
advertised by American automakers like GM and Chrysler. They didn't have to.
Toyotas were popular - and accordingly, pricey.
And much of this was driven by perception, not reality. People believed Toyotas
were better-built and more reliable than, say, GM cars. But much of this was
smoke and mirrors. It's not that Toyotas are bad cars; not by any means. But
they're not significantly better (or worse) than GM cars, if you go by the
actual facts on the ground.
Now the shoe is on the other foot - and it's Toyota that's desperate to clear
out fleets of unsold cars taking up space on dealership lots (and costing the
dealers a fortune in monthly loan/interest charges). People now view Toyotas
with suspicion, even though the Toyotas on the lot today are just as "good" as
the Toyotas on the lot six months ago - when dealers were charging (and getting)
full sticker price for them.
This means you, the buyer, are finally in the catbird seat - if you're in the
market for a new Toyota.
And there's no reason you shouldn't be - unless you just don't like Toyotas.
========
www.ericpetersautos.com or
EPeters952@aol.com for comments.
**********
James Rodham
Driving is usually a
pleasurable experience. Cruising through the streets or perhaps the countryside
in the comfort lap of your own vehicle can be spiritually rewarding. I know of
some people who treat driving as a stress buster. But bad roads and bottleneck
traffic-jams can spoil this experience and the stress buster can be major cause
for stress if you get a flat tire amidst all of this.
Although it can be sad and disheartening to see a flat tire, there is no need to
worry. You can replace a flat tire in 5 simple steps and that too in just 15
minutes.
If your car tire goes flat even in the midst of traffic, here is what you need
to do:
Don't panic. You don't have to stop your vehicle immediately. You can pull over
to the side of the road away from any traffic and park your vehicle on a leveled
surface. Switch on the parking lights / hazard lights in your vehicle and get
the spare tire, Car Jack and the Lug Wrench out (usually kept in the boot).
Don't forget to turn off the ignition and keep a gear engaged along with the
handbrake.
With the Lug Wrench, start loosening the Lug Nuts on the wheel but don't loosen
them completely. Next, fix the Car Jack securely in the groove underneath your
vehicle (usually to be fixed in the axle groove or suspension bar) and jack your
car up so that the wheel is free and almost 2 inches above the ground.
If you don't know where to fix the Car Jack, refer to the Owner's Manual of your
vehicle.
Remove the Lug Nuts and then remove the flat tire. Place the removed tire in the
boot of your car. Now fix the spare tire and tighten the Lug Nuts by hand.
Remember to tighten opposite Lugs simultaneously. Once the tire is secured, use
the Lug Wrench to tighten the Lug Nuts further.
Lower the Jack to lower the vehicle and once the tire is back on the ground, the
jack will be released from its groove easily. Use the Lug Wrench to secure the
Lugs further.
Now that the spare tire has been fixed, don't forget to keep the Lug Wrench and
the Car Jack back in their place and close the boot of your car.
Now you can go back on the road feeling confident that you replaced a flat tire
all by yourself. But don't forget to have the flat tire repaired by the mechanic
before you breathe easy.
========
Quality Auto Parts James Rodham is the Information Architect at
http://www.qualityautoparts.com
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Eric Peters
Toyota's Prius hybrid is,
in its own way, the Cadillac Escalade of hybrids. It's an incredibly trendy
(although among an entirely different crowd) "segment buster" with the most
Green Bling you can find that everyone else is trying to copy. Dealers are
having no trouble at all selling every Prius they get at full MSRP sticker price
- the current recall debacle notwithstanding.
And of course, that's the big downside: Being green will cost you green -
possibly enough to seriously dent the economic returns you might expect to reap
by driving this car - though maybe feeling (and looking) green is more important
then actually saving green. Let's look at it.
WHAT IT IS
The Prius is the Duke of
New York
(and "A Number One") of hybrid passenger cars. It was the first mass-production
hybrid car, it has been in production longer than any other hybrid (ten years
now) and it has sold - by far - in greater numbers than any other hybrid.
Prices begin at $22,000 for the base "II" trim level and run up to $27,270 for
the top-of-the-line "V" trimmed version. Its primary competition is the
look-alike (or look similar, anyhow) Honda Insight and (to a lesser extent -
because they cost much more and don't get nearly as much gas mileage ) the
hybrid versions of Nissan's Altima and the Ford Fusion - as well as high-mileage
diesel-powered cars such as the VW Jetta TDI.
WHAT'S NEW
Almost everything. The gas-electric drivetrain has been heavily updated to be
even more efficient (as well as more powerful), the interior's completely redone
and the exterior has been reshaped - though it's still familiar-looking.
WHAT'S GOOD
It's no longer slower than an old lady in an '86 Buick. It can get 50-plus miles
per gallon. Improved interior layout. No longer un-fun to drive. You can carry
two eight-foot 4x4 posts home from Lowes in one (I did it).
WHAT'S NOT SO GOOD
The Prius is getting pricey - $22k to start, which is two grand more than the
similar Honda Insight. Plus, dealers are gouging people because the Prius is so
popular. A well- equipped Prius can easily cost close to $30k and that is a lot
of money for an "economy" car. A diesel Jetta costs less and gets comparable
mileage - and no worries down the road about replacing expensive batteries.
The Prius also has a super annoying buzzer that goes off - and stays on - every
time you put the thing in reverse. (More on this below.)
ENGINES & PERFORMANCE
The Prius is a hybrid so it has two sources of motive power - a 1.8 liter gas
engine and a pair of electric motors/battery pack. Total output is 134 hp -
sufficient to get the fairly heavy (3,042 lbs.) Prius to 60 mph in just over 10
seconds.
Gas mileage is now rated by the EPA at 51 city and 48 highway. Note that these
numbers are the reverse of the usual, in the sense that city mileage is higher
than highway mileage. This is because unlike regular cars, which are most
efficient at steady-state cruise on the highway, a hybrid gets its best mileage
in stop-and-go city traffic - chiefly because when it's stopped, the gas engine
automatically shuts off, burning no gas whatsoever.
DRIVING IMPRESSIONS
The first thing you notice about the new Prius - if you've had an opportunity to
drive the previous Prius - is that the 2010 model is much peppier. The gas part
of its hybrid drivetrain now consists of a larger 1.8 liter four-cylinder engine
vs. the previous 1.5 liter engine. Total (combined) power output of the gas
engine and the hybrid electric motors/battery pack is now 134 hp vs. 110
previously. The power boost gives the new Prius much better driveability outside
of the low-speed (45 mph and under) "city" conditions for which it was
originally optimized.
The fact is most people have to drive on the highways at least some of the time
- and on secondary roads where the flow of traffic is faster than 45 mph. The
old Prius may have returned excellent fuel economy, but it struggled to keep up
with 70 mph highway traffic and didn't have sufficient power to pull confidently
into traffic or pass other cars. The 2010 version has no such difficulties and
is noticeably better at speeds higher than 60 mph. I found I had no trouble
maintaining 70 mph without the engine screaming for mercy and making me feel
like it might spit its pistons through the oil pan at any moment.
Surprisingly, the newfound muscles don't come with a fuel economy penalty. In
fact, the 2010 Prius does better at the pump than the previous version: 51 city
and 48 highway vs. 48 city and 45 highway for the 2009. (The 2010 Prius' mileage
also beats the 2010 Insight's 40 city/43 highway by a very solid margin.)
Part of the reason for this is the counterintuitive (at first, until you think
about it some) fact that a larger/more powerful engine can get better economy
than a smaller one - if it doesn't have to work as hard. In the old Prius, you
often had to keep the gas pedal mashed to the floor just to keep the thing
moving. In the 2010 version, you have to floor it all the way much less often -
and that means the engine works less hard. Which means it burns less fuel.
The efficiency of the Regenerative Braking system (which uses the vehicle's
momentum to recharge the batteries) has also been improved and once you get used
to moving the little toggle shifter on the console to "B" when going downhill,
you'll enjoy saving your brake pads as you improve your gas mileage.
There's also an "EV" (electric vehicle) button you can depress to operate the
car entirely on electricity at speeds up to about 30 mph. This, too, is fun to
play with - but not when other cars are around. You have to be very gentle with
the accelerator pedal or the gas engine will automatically restart. Still, in
stop-and-go driving, you can run the Prius for extended periods without burning
any gas at all.
In addition to the EV mode, you can also select "Eco" mode for maximum economy
(with the gas engine) at a cost of some performance - or choose "Power" to get
maximum scoot.
Another big improvement you'll discover if you drive the 2010 Prius is that it
rides like a luxury car. Excellent seats help a lot, but the car itself feels
very planted and sure-footed and quiet, too - with impressive high-speed
manners. The latter is a quality no hybrid I have tested up to now displayed.
You can run 75, 80, 90 mph and it doesn't feel iffy in any way. So now you're at
just as much risk of getting nailed for "speeding" as the rest of us!
STYLING & UTILITY
The 2010's exterior (and interior) have both been restyled but the interior
re-do is the most noticeable change. It looks higher-rent, for openers, with
nicer materials (including a leather-like material for the dash that is not
unlike what you'd find in a current Lexus) and a more functional layout for the
controls. The toggle-style shifter is still there, but it's now mounted on the
upper portion of the center console (more like a regular car) than jutting out
of the dash by the steering column, as before. The center console itself is much
more attractive - as well as functional. It flows gracefully from the dash, with
the central LCD display flush mounted instead of projecting out like an
electronic breadbox. The main gauge pod is higher up in the driver's
line-of-sight and the cluster itself is larger and more readable. In sum, you
feel much less like you're driving a high-tech econo-box.
The tall "box" shape of the Prius and hatchback layout give this car more
versatility than you might expect. I was able to carry home a couple of
eight-foot 4x4s for a project without difficulty (other than the aggravating
buzzer that won't shut up; more on this in a moment).
The Prius also has more roomy/comfortable back seats than its main rival, the
new Honda Insight. Total cargo capacity with the back seats down is 40 cubic
feet vs. 32 cubic feet in the Insight.
QUALITY & SAFETY
As mentioned earlier, the 2010 Prius comes off more like an entry-luxury car
than a car intended to be economical first and foremost. In addition to the
upgraded materials and just nicer-looking interior layout, the car comes
standard with most power options (including AC and cruise control) as well as
keyless ignition and a perfectly decent stereo CD player with MP3 hook-up. You
can option out a Prius with all kinds of high-end stuff, including full leather
interior, high-end stereo with Bluetooth wireless, auto-leveling headlights,
seat heaters, solar roof panels, self-parking system, touch screen navigation
system; even 17-inch alloy rims and fog lights - though this will push the
sticker price to (or over $30,000) and that level you have to ask yourself
whether you're buying this car more to wear green on your sleeve than keep green
in your wallet.
The Prius is designed to appeal to people who want the latest in safety gear as
well as gas-saving gear - so in addition to standard stuff such as full-row
curtain and side-impact air bags, traction and stability control, etc. the 2010
Prius can also be ordered with Adaptive Cruise Control, a Lane Departure Warning
System and a Pre-Collision Alert System.
I have no issue with any of the above but I really hated the over-the-top (and
impossible to shut off) buzzers that come on when you put the car in Reverse (as
if it were a ten-ton garbage truck) or don't close the rear lift gate completely
(as when I was hauling home those 4x4s). There should be an "off" button for
both. The seatbelt buzzer - which gets more belligerent if you don't immediately
"buckle up" for safety - can also make you want to break out a ball peen hammer
and start smashing things.
THE BOTTOM LINE
The Prius is an impressive - indeed, downright amazing - feat of engineering. It
performs seamlessly and makes you feel as though you are driving into the
future. It's an open question, though, whether it makes sense in purely economic
terms.
Yes, the Prius saves gas - but does it save you money? What if you bought a
Honda Insight instead - and put the $2,000 or so you'd save up front toward the
cost of fuel down the road? Or bought a diesel car like the VW Jetta TDI - which
gets 40-something miles per gallon (less than the Prius) but is cheaper to buy
(like the Insight) and also (being a diesel) should be able to run for 300,000
miles or more (which no hybrid can be expected to do)?
Or how about just buying a three or four year-old 35 mpg-capable economy car for
$7,000 or so? The $15,000 price difference "up front" will keep you in "free
gas" for the next 10-12 years before you'd even reach the break even point
relative to the cost of a new Prius.
So, the Prius is as much about image as it is about economy. In the end, what
matters most to you will determine whether it makes sense to buy one.
========
www.ericpetersautos.com or
EPeters952@aol.com for comments.
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Eric Peters
As the economy worsens,
crime is unfortunately going up. That means your tools, classic vehicles and
everything else in your garage are choice targets for thieves. What can you do
to avoid being ripped off?
* First and probably most important, be sure you are fully insured - Find out
whether your homeowner's policy covers such things as your tools and equipment.
A standard homeowner's policy on, say, a $250,000 home may not cover your
$20,000 worth of tools. So, re-read your policy - and confirm the details with
your agent. It's also a very smart idea to do a full inventory of everything you
have - with pictures or video for back-up in the event you do get robbed and
need to verify the extent of your loss.
Similarly, be absolutely sure your vehicles - especially antique/collectible
vehicles - are fully insured for their specific value (what's known in the
business as an "agreed value" policy). That means, simply, if your vehicle is
stolen and not recovered, you will receive the previously agreed-upon value
listed in your coverage. No haggling after the fact over what it was worth.
Related point: Many of us neglect to update our policies as we update our cars -
or as the retail market value of the car changes. If you recently had your car
professionally re-painted, for instance, you should make sure your
policy/coverage reflects that. Make sure the "agreed value" is up to date - and
not based on what the car was worth five years ago, when you first took out the
policy.
These precautions will minimize your losses if you do get robbed. But what about
avoiding a robbery in the first place?
* Don't flash what you have - Try to avoid leaving your garage door open so that
everyone who drives or walks by has a full view of your treasures. Ditto parking
your high-dollar antique vehicle outside, where everyone can see it. Try to keep
what you have under wraps - and keep a low profile.
* Keep the door locked - This is elementary - yet it's a fact that many thieves
never have to break into anything. They just walk right on in - and walk away
(or drive away) with your stuff. Use a high quality door lock, plus a deadbolt.
* If your garage has doors with windows, consider replacing them with solid
doors - As nice as it is to have a door with an upper glass section to let the
sun shine in, glass allows a would-be thief to see inside your place - and
getting in is as simple as smashing out the window.
* Install a bright light near your garage - Ideally, one with a motion sensor.
The light should be of the floodlight type - and either far enough up or
otherwise out of reach that it would take at least a little bit of effort to
defeat it by smashing the bulb or some such.
* Consider an alarm system - You might even get a rate reduction on your
homeowner's (as well as your classic car) insurance. Or get a fake alarm - dummy
closed-circuit cameras or blinking red LED lights near doors and windows can
accomplish the same thing (but forget about the insurance discount).* *
* Make your stuff harder to steal - Tools should be secured in heavy, hard to
remove/move (and locked) pro tool cases, ideally, cases permanently fixed to
hard points such as the floor or workbenches. Locked cabinets bolted to the wall
studs work well. Garage doors should have heavy metal lock bars and other such
devices to make them extremely difficult to open for an unauthorized user.
Also: There are several ways to discreetly rig a classic car or motorcycle so
that it won't start or is difficult (if not impossible) to move. A kill switch
wired into the ignition switch and located in a not visible area under the dash.
Or just disconnect the ignition coil (or battery).
An eye bolt drilled into a concrete floor provides a secure anchor point for a
chain to keep your bicycle (or motorcycle) where it belongs.
And you should always mark your vehicles (as well as expensive tools) with a
Dremel tool or some such in a not-visible/hard to access place with some
identifying marks - so that if the* vehicle (or equipment) is stolen and found
later on, you can prove it is yours.
These are the "majors" - you can probably think of several others, too. The most
important thing of all, though, is to be thinking about protecting what's yours.
We live in ugly times - and it's best to be thinking a step ahead of those who
might try to take advantage of you.
========
www.ericpetersautos.com or
EPeters952@aol.com
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Darren Brooks
What is the one accessory
you can add to your vehicle to instantly make it more useful, versatile, and
practical? For very little investment, the addition of a tow bar will allow your
car or van to pull anything from trailers to caravans and other vehicles. They
are usually made of anodized steel and fit unobtrusively under the bumper of
your vehicle, increasing not only its practicality, but also its resale value.
Camping, moving, and buying new furniture all become easier when your car or van
has one attached. When you can easily attach a trailer behind you, there is no
need to worry if everything will fit in the car as you set out on your holiday,
or to squeeze your boxes and packages in between the kids in the back seat.
Bicycles, recreational vehicles, or any large purchase can be safely and easily
towed home when your car or truck has a tow bar.
One of the most popular reasons for adding one to a car is so that it can tow a
caravan. This has become popular in recent years due to the low costs involved
in holidaying with your own accommodation.
When purchasing a tow bar, look for one that comes with a guarantee, and be sure
that it is a good fit for your particular vehicle. Some are rated as being
heavier duty than others, so check to make sure you are getting what you need.
Additionally, if you are going to be towing heavy items, such as other vehicles,
or if you intend to be towing often, you should check your vehicle
specifications to ensure that it was design with a towing option in mind. That
way, you won't have to worry about your car while you're on the road.
Consider using a mobile tow bar fitting service when adding a tow bar to your
car as this will not only be more convenient but will also help reduce the cost
due to the lower overheads of the mobile fitter compared to that of a garage or
fitting centre.
========
J.W Towbars are specialist mobile tow bar fitters covering an area within the
Midlands. Free no
obligation quotations and advice is available on their website
http://www.jwtowbars.co.uk.
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David Maillie
Car-proud individuals
leave no stone unturned so that their cars are always turned out in their Sunday
finery. Thus they have trendy stick-ons, upholstery matching the dashboard and
carpets where the feet sink. But car maintenance is much more than having a
gleaming facade. Car maintenance should be an all-encompassing routine covering
both the exteriors and the interiors.
Car maintenance and repair should feature in the daily itinerary of every car
owner. Tend to your car daily so that in the long run, you do not have to face
major hold-ups or breakdowns. Car maintenance need not be drudgery or an
expensive proposition, for there are numerous DIY car maintenance tips that can
be practiced with ease and without having to tow your vehicle to the garage.
The one car maintenance tip that you should swear by is the regular checking of
the tires. You should replace them immediately if you find any sort of cuts and
protruding on them. Unevenly spaced out wears and tears suggest disproportionate
tire balance. Rotate the tires every 7,500 miles and pump up the tires only up
to the prescribed level.
One car maintenance tip to abide at all times is to lookout for seepages from
any part and clogged pipes and mufflers. Always use the recommended varieties of
oils and fluids for car maintenance is not a stopgap solution.
As you go about your DIY car maintenance regime, make sure that the antifreeze
level always sticks to the norm and that you use only a 50:50 mixture of
antifreeze and water.
Jammed brakes are the nuisances of every driver. Ensure that you are not running
short on brake fluid but stop short of overfilling.
Transmission fluid, power steering fluid and motor oil checks should be an
integral part of every car maintenance and repair regimen. Put the transmission
fluid through the rigors of a reality check by rapidly changing gears so that
any possible chinks in the armor are exposed. Change the motor oil every 3
months or 3,000 miles.
A highly recommended car maintenance tip is to periodically check the shock
absorber by actually putting the car through bumps and grinds. Shock absorbers
should always be replaced in pairs.
The windshield washer fluid reservoir should always be full. One oft overlooked
car maintenance and repair job is to regularly clean the wiper blades and
replace them yearly, if not broken or chipped by then, so that when the skies
open up, you are not stuck with rusty blades.
Finally, do not wait for the car to send warning signals. Any car maintenance
and repair job might be too late then. Instead, periodically check the belts and
hoses, exhaust clamps and supports and replace them whenever deemed necessary.
These car maintenance tips and tricks are not meant to be broken like the New
Year resolutions. Go about your car maintenance job diligently. Each car
maintenance tip, practiced rigorously will ensure your car looking radiant,
running like well-oiled machinery and the engines purring happily.
========
David Maillie is a chemist with over 12 years experience in biochemical
research and clynical analysis. He is an alumni of
Cornell University and
specializes in biochemical synthesis for public, private, and governmental
interests. He holds numerous patents including his recently awarded patent for
headlight repair, cleaner, and restorer. He can be reached at M.D. Wholesale:

Eric Peters
Sticking gas pedals are
not unique to Toyota
vehicles. The main problem Toyota owners are dealing with - loose or out of
adjustment floor mats that jam the gas pedal down - can happen with other
vehicles, too. If the little tabs that secure the mat in place aren't fitted
correctly, the floor mat may slide forward and bunch up near the car's brake and
gas pedals, and could lead to "unintended acceleration."
In addition, the cable that connects the gas pedal to the engine can bind and
stick, too - especially in older cars. What to do?
* Before you drive off, check to be sure that your floor mats are properly
positioned. If the mat is held in place by tabs, be sure they are all lined up
and secured correctly. If the mat is not secured in place by some sort of tab or
retainer, be sure it at least has a "no slip" underside (for example, rubber
pegs to prevent it from sliding around). If not, it's a good idea to replace
them with mats that do have this feature (check with your local auto parts store
or see online sources such as www.weathertech.com.
* If you are driving along and find the accelerator is sticking, immediately put
the gearshift lever into neutral (on manual cars, you can depress the clutch),
then use the brakes to slow the car. Pull over and stop as soon as possible. Do
not turn off the engine! If you do, the power steering (and brakes) will go away
and the car will be much harder to control and stop. And don't worry about
harming the engine by placing the transmission in neutral. All modern cars have
devices called rev limiters that prevent the engine RPMs from going into the red
zone and causing damage.
Once stopped, you can physically check the floor mat to see whether it was
bunched up against the gas pedal, causing the problem. Never try to adjust the
floor mat while the vehicle is moving.
For Toyota owners: The automaker has set up a special web site - www.toyota.com/recall
- and phone number (1-800-331-4331) to assist consumers. If you own a 2009-2010
RAV4, 2009-2010 Corolla, 2009-2010 Matrix, 2005-2010 Aavalon, 2007-2010 Camry,
or 2010 Highlander, Tundra or Sequoia, you are affected by the recall. The
latest news is that certain Prius and Lexus hybrids are affected by the recall
as well.
========
www.ericpetersautos.com or
EPeters952@aol.com for comments.
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http://www.myride.com/content/shared/articles/templates/index.cfm/article_id_int/8250/id/31722
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Velma Dacron
Jump starting your car:
those words strike terror into the hearts of many motorists who have visions of
electrocution or getting sprayed with acid from exploding batteries.
But, you don't have to be expert to perform this procedure. You just need to be
prepared. Learn the steps and practice--before you find yourself in an emergency
situation.
Although you don't have to be an expert auto technician to jumpstart you car,
you do need to use some common sense. And there are some risks involved if you
don't know what you're doing.
First of all, you need a set of (surprise!) jumper cables. Second, you need an
additional vehicle. It's preferable if there's a second person to go along with
that vehicle, but it's not absolutely necessary. OK: before you begin, turn off
anything that draws power from your car: cd player, lights, heater, etc. Unless
you have really long booster cables, the two cars should be facing each other,
close enough for the cables to reach from battery to battery. If this isn't
possible (say you're stuck facing the wall in a parking garage), pull the second
car alongside the dead one, leaving room to maneuver. Pop the hoods of both
cars.
The car battery is located in one of the corners: it's pretty easy to spot.
You'll notice that the battery has two posts: a (usually) red one that has a
positive (+) symbol beside it and a black one with a negative (-) symbol. They
should be free of dirt, corrosion and grease.
Now the scariness begins: attaching the cables. There is a specific order in
which to perform this delicate operation. It's also very important, once you
have your cables in hand, to never let the clamps touch each other. If they do,
you could get a nasty shock.
You start the procedure with the dead car. First, hook up the positive cable
(it's the one that's not black--most are red or orange) to the positive post of
the dead battery (which may also be red). Then attach the black negative cable
to the dead battery's negative post.
Next, attach the other end of the positive cable to the positive post of the
boosting battery. Attach the black negative cable to the negative post of the
boosting battery or to the edge of the engine compartment.
Once the cables are securely in place, start the boosting car's engine. Then,
start the car with the dead battery. This is where a second person comes in
handy: to rev up the boosting engine if some extra juice is needed. If, at
first, the dead car doesn't start, don't despair. Turn the other car's engine
off and double check that the clamps are securely attached to the battery posts
on both vehicles. If you didn't clean the posts prior to the attempted jump,
now's the time to do it. A wire brush, if you have one, is the best tool for
removing corrosion (that white powdery substance) and rust from the posts. If
you don't have one, use whatever you have handy (screwdriver, rag,
hairbrush...).
Try starting the cars again, beginning--as before--with the "live" car. Assuming
the "dead" car turns over, remove the jumper cables in reverse order. Note: you
need to keep the formerly dead car running for about 15 minutes to make sure
it's fully charged. You don't have to sit there for all that time. Allow a few
minutes to make sure all is OK, then you can head out. Driving the car will
accomplish the same thing, which is charging the batter.
Of course, if your car still refuses to start, then be prepared to sit and wait
for help. You do have Triple A, right? And if you don't own a pair of jumper
cables (and have them in your car), shame on you!
========
For more information on jumper cables, battery boosters and chargers, go to
http://www.batterybooster.org/. Don't be caught with a dead battery!

Eric Peters
Ad Free Newsletter
ArcaMax publications are now available in an "advertising-free" format.
Please click here for details.
People who like to drive
rarely enjoy being driven - and are often tempted to second-guess the driving of
others when not behind the wheel themselves. Usually, it's not a good idea.
Here's a Backseat Driver's Companion - a short list of Do's and Don'ts to follow
when someone else is behind the wheel:
* Hold your tongue - You may not like the way someone else drives; maybe they
don't notice the light's turned green as fast you might; maybe they're more
hesitant than you might be pulling into traffic or merging. Maybe they don't
drive as fast as you would like.
But unless there's an immediate danger you're pretty sure the driver hasn't
noticed (a kid on a bike about to run across the road, for instance) proper
etiquette is to remain silent, even if you're stewing inside. When you're back
in your own car again, you can drive how you like. Hectoring those who don't
drive as you might isn't going to change their ways; it's just going to create
stress - and may even make them drive unsafely.
* Don't second-guess - Maybe you do "know a better way" to get across town - or
"just know" the car will fit in that parking spot up ahead that looks pretty
tight. Ultimately, however, it's not your call.
It's fine to give advice - if it's asked for. Just don't hector and nag
imperiously. You may in fact be a much better driver, know the quickest way to
get across town - and could easily parallel park the car in that tight space up
ahead. But since you're not behind the wheel, it really doesn't matter, does it?
So, grin and bear it. Everyone will be the happier for it.
* Abide by "House Rules" - That means (within reason) doing what the driver
asks. It's his car, he gets to lay down the law. If the driver asks you to wear
your seatbelt, for example, it's right and proper to do so without complaining -
even if you prefer not to wear a seatbelt in your own vehicle. Same goes for
smoking, eating and drinking. If it's not your car and you're not driving,
deference is the order of the day.
* Don't create distractions - It's unsafe to yak on a cell phone while driving
because your attention's not fully focused on the task of driving the car. For
the same reason, passengers who distract the driver can be just as dangerous -
even more so, since the driver has little or no control over how passengers
behave. You can turn off a cell phone; it's virtually impossible to "turn off" a
passenger creating a distraction in the back seat. This is a problem for
teenagers and young drivers especially. Put a bunch of kids in the backseat -
and a kid up front in the driver's seat - and the odds of a distraction-induced
accident go up several notches.
Also, if animals are on board, keep them under control. A dog running amok
inside a car is another great way to set up a tragic accident-via-distraction.
* Offer to share the driving - On longer trips, it's courteous to make it known
you're willing to help with the driving - if the driver wants a break. This
should be done in a non-confrontation way. Don't say, "I'll take over now." Say
something along the lines of, "Whenever you feel like taking a break, let me
know. I'd be happy to drive some of the way."
So long as you're not offering a critique of the other person's driving - and
implying you could do a better job - the offer will usually be taken in the
right spirit. And there won't be a potentially dangerous test of wills: You
waiting for the driver to get tired and slip up (so you can point out the
slip-up); the driver adamantly refusing to admit he's getting tired and letting
you spell him - just to prove he's a better driver than you think he is.
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Top 10 Least
Expensive Vehicles
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We aren't living in the cushiest of financial times, and most people have locked
down their bank accounts. But what if you still need a new car? With the tough
economy in mind we've gathered together the ten most affordable new vehicles,
all with starting prices at or below a thrifty $13,550.
http://www.myride.com/content/shared/articles/templates/index.cfm/article_id_int/7282/id/31704
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Things You Need to Know About Automobile Tire Care and Safety
http://sudburyareahomesales.com/gold_newsletter.asp#gold_article3
Tires are designed and built with great care to provide thousands of miles of excellent service. But for maximum benefit, they must be maintained properly.
The most important factors in tire care are:
With the right amount of air pressure, your tires wear longer, save fuel and help prevent accidents. The "right amount" of air is the pressure specified by the vehicle manufacturer for the front and rear tires on your particular model car or light truck. The correct air pressure is shown on the tire placard (or sticker) attached to the vehicle door edge, door post, glove box door or fuel door. If your vehicle doesn't have a placard, check the owner's manual or consult with the vehicle manufacturer, tire manufacturer or your local tire dealer for the proper inflation.
The tire placard tells you the maximum vehicle load, the cold tire pressures and the tire size recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.
If you don't take proper care of your tires, the results can be serious. Most tire companies are either supplying a handbook or are molding a safety warning right onto the tire sidewall. A typical warning is shown.
WARNING
Serious injury may result from tire failure due to underinflation / overloading.
Follow owner's manual or tire placard in vehicle. Explosion of tire/rim
assembly. Only specially trained persons should mount tires.
As you see, it points out that serious injury may result from tire failure due to underinflation or overloading. Motorists are strongly advised to follow the vehicle owner's manual or the tire placard in the vehicle for proper inflation and loading.
Never try to mount your own tires. Only specially trained persons should mount or demount tires. An explosion of a tire and wheel assembly can result from improper or careless mounting procedures.
If you do mount your own tires, make sure you have the right equipment, the right training and the right information before proceeding. Always use a restraining device when mounting a tire on a rim, and be sure to stay back from the tire when inflating it. Make sure to follow the inflation instructions.
Always replace a tire with another tire of exactly the same bead diameter designation and suffix letters. For example: A 16" tire goes on a 16" rim. Never mount a 16" tire on a 16.5" rim. A 16.5" tire goes on a 16.5" rim. Never mount a 16.5" tire on a 16" rim.
While it is possible to pass a 16" diameter tire over the lip or flanges of a 16.5" size diameter rim, it cannot be inflated enough to position itself against the rim flange. If an attempt is made to seat the tire bead by inflating, the tire bead will break with explosive force and could cause serious injury or death.
Remember, mounting and demounting tires and wheels should be left to skilled professionals who are aware of the safety hazards involved and who have the proper tools and equipment to do the job safely.
Tires must be properly inflated. Use an accurate tire pressure gauge to determine your tire pressure. You can't tell when tires are "low," or underinflated, just by looking. Air meters at service stations may be inaccurate due to exposure or abuse. You should have your own personal tire gauge to be sure. Purchase an accurate tire gauge from your tire dealer, auto supply store or other retailer.
Check tire inflation pressure (including the spare) at least once a month and before every long trip. Tires must be checked when they are cold; that is, before they have been run a mile. If you must drive over one mile for air, before you leave home, measure the cold inflation pressure of each tire and record the actual underinflation amount for each tire.
Upon arriving at the service station, measure each tire's inflation again and then inflate the warm tire to a level that is equal to this warm pressure, plus the cold underinflation amount.
Tires lose air normally through the process of permeation. Changes in outdoor temperature can affect the rate at which your tire loses air. This change is more pronounced in hot weather. Generally speaking, a tire will lose one or two pounds of air per month in cool weather, and even more in warmer weather. Underinflation is the leading cause of tire failure, so check inflation pressure regularly.
Never "bleed" or reduce air pressure when tires are hot. It is normal for pressures to build up as a result of driving.
Make sure all tire valves and extensions are equipped with valve caps with rubber gaskets to keep out dirt and moisture. Have a new valve stem assembly installed whenever a tire is replaced. Underinflation or overloading creates excessive heat, and can lead to tire failure, which could result in vehicle damage and/or serious injury or death. Proper inflation extends tire life and saves fuel. Maintain the inflation pressure listed in the vehicle owner's manual or on the tire placard.
In addition to showing the vehicle manufacturer's recommended cold inflation pressure, the tire placard also shows the maximum load of the vehicle. Do not overload your vehicle. Remember, baggage carried on top of any vehicle counts as additional load.
If you are towing a trailer, remember that some of the weight of the loaded trailer transfers to the towing vehicle. That reduces the load which can safely be placed in the towing vehicle. The only sure way to prevent overload is to weigh, axle by axle, the fully loaded vehicle on reliable platform scales.
At least once a month, inspect your tires closely for signs of uneven wear.
Uneven wear patterns may be caused by improper inflation pressures, misalignment, improper balance or suspension neglect. If not corrected, further tire damage will occur.
Most likely, the cause can be corrected at your tire dealer or other service facility. If you find a problem and correct it in time, your tires may be able to continue in service.
Certain uneven wear patterns may indicate that the tire has suffered internal structural damage and requires the immediate attention of your tire dealer.
When the tread is worn down to one-sixteenth of an inch, tires must be replaced. Built-in treadwear indicators, or "wear bars", which look like narrow strips of smooth rubber across the tread, will appear on the tire when that point of wear is reached. When you see these wear bars, the tire is worn out and it's time to replace it.
Inspect your tires frequently. Look for any stones, bits of glass, metal or other foreign objects wedged in the tread. These may work deeper into the tire and cause air loss.
If any tire continually needs more air, have it taken off the vehicle and checked to find out why it is leaking. Damage to the tire, wheel or valve may be the problem.
The way you drive has a great deal to do with your tire mileage and safety. So cultivate good driving habits for your own benefit.
The forces created by a rapidly spinning tire can cause an explosion by literally tearing the tire apart. These forces impact the whole tire structure and can rupture the entire casing. Some vehicles are capable of bringing a tire to this failing point in 3 to 5 seconds.
When stuck on ice, snow, mud or wet grass, the vehicle should be rocked gently back and forth by repeatedly shifting the gear lever from drive to reverse on automatic transmissions, or reverse to second on manual transmissions. This should be done with the least amount of wheel spinning. If that doesn't free the vehicle, get a tow.
No matter how carefully you drive, there is always a possibility that you may eventually have a puncture and wind up with a flat on the highway. Drive slowly to the closest safe area out of traffic. This may further damage the flat tire, but your safety is more important.
Follow the vehicle manufacturer's instructions for jacking up the vehicle, taking off the wheel and putting on the spare. Then drive to a place where the flat tire can be inspected for possible repair or replacement.
After a tire has received a severe impact, such as hitting a curb or pothole, you must have it removed from the wheel and inspected both inside and out for impact damage.
An impact-damaged tire may appear serviceable on the outside, but can fail later after the road hazard injury.
Many late-model vehicles are equipped with temporary spare tires and wheels which are different from your regular tires and wheels. Some may require higher inflation pressure, or the use of special canisters to inflate the tire.
You may operate a vehicle with such a tire within the limits indicated on the tire's sidewall, until it is convenient to repair the disabled tire or replace it with one of the same size designation and construction as the other tires on the vehicle.
Always check the inflation in your spare tire every time you check all the others. A spare tire with no air in it is no help to you in an emergency. If you have an inflatable spare, be sure to check the aerosol air inflation pressure canister to be sure it has not been damaged. If so, have it checked by an expert.
Remember, improper mounting and overinflation may damage the tire or wheel and can result in an explosion that could cause serious injury and death.
Do not depend on tire aerosol sealants and inflators to fix a damaged tire permanently. These products are designed to provide only a temporary, emergency repair to help get you off the road and to the nearest tire repair facility.
Some aerosol products of this type use flammable gases, such as butane, propane or isobutane, as propellants. Follow all directions and precautions printed on the canister when using these products. Be sure to inform tire service personnel that you have used a flammable aerosol to inflate your tire.
There is a close working relationship between your tires and several mechanical systems in your vehicle. Tires, wheels, brakes, shock absorbers, drive train, steering and suspension systems must all function together to give you a comfortable ride and good tire mileage.
An unbalanced wheel and tire assembly may create an annoying vibration when you drive on a smooth road and may result in irregular treadwear.
Misalignment of wheels in the front or rear, improperly operating brakes or shock absorbers, bent wheels, worn bushings and other mechanical problems cause uneven and rapid treadwear and should be corrected by a qualified mechanic. Front-wheel-drive vehicles, and those with independent rear suspension, require special attention with alignment of all four wheels.
These systems should be checked periodically as specified by the vehicle owner's manual or whenever you have an indication of trouble.
A bad jolt, such as hitting a pothole, can throw your front end out of alignment even if you had it checked an hour earlier. Such an impact can also bend the rim, causing a loss of air pressure, and damage your tires with little or no visible external indication.
Sometimes irregular tire wear can be corrected by rotating your tires. Consult your car owner's manual, the tire manufacturer or your tire dealer for the appropriate pattern for your vehicle.
If your tires show uneven wear, ask your tire dealer to check for and correct any misalignment, imbalance or other mechanical problem involved before rotation.
Sometimes front and rear tires on a vehicle use different pressures. After rotation, adjust individual tire air pressure to the figures recommended by the vehicle manufacturer for the new locations -- front or rear -- as shown on the tire placard in the vehicle.
The purpose of regularly rotating tires is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on a vehicle. Before rotating your tires, always refer to your individual owner's manual for rotation recommendations. If no rotation period is specified, tires should be rotated approximately every 6,000 miles.
However, rotate your tires earlier if signs of irregular or uneven tire wear arise, and have the vehicle checked by a qualified technician to determine the cause of the wear problem. The first rotation is most important.
Your tire contains very useful information molded into the sidewall. It shows the name of the tire, its size, whether it is tubeless or tube type, the maximum load and maximum inflation, the important safety warning and much other information.
Here is information about the sidewall of a popular "P-metric," speed-rated auto tire. "P" stands for passenger, "215" represents the width of the tire in millimeters; "65" is the ratio of height to width; "H" is the speed rating; "R" means radial; and "15" is the diameter of the wheel in inches. Some speed-rated tires carry a Service Description, instead of showing the speed symbol in the size designation. The Service Description, 89H in this example, consists of the load index (89) and speed symbol (H).
The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test track.
A tire graded 200 would wear twice as long on the government test course under specified test conditions as one graded 100.
It is wrong to link treadwear grades with your projected tire mileage. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use and may vary due to driving habits, service practices, differences in road characteristics and climate.
Traction grades, from highest to lowest, are A, B and C. They represent the tire's ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete.
The temperature grades, from highest to lowest, are A, B and C. These represent the tire's resistance to the generation of heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel.
IMPORTANT: Always check the vehicle manufacturer's recommendation before replacing a tire with a different size and/or construction.
When buying new tires, be sure your name, address and tire identification number are recorded and returned to the tire manufacturer or its record-keeping designee. Tire registration will ensure that you will be notified promptly in the event the tire manufacturer needs to contact you.
When tires need to be replaced, don't guess what tire is right for your vehicle.
For the answer, first look at the tire placard. As you will see, that placard tells you the size of the tires which were on the vehicle as original equipment.
Tires should always be replaced with the same size designation, or approved options, as recommended by the automobile or tire manufacturer. Never choose a smaller size, with less load-carrying capacity than the size on the tire placard. Always have tires mounted with the same size and construction designations on the same axle. It is recommended that all four tires be of the same size, speed rating and construction (radial or non-radial). However, in some cases, the vehicle manufacturer may require different-sized tires for the front and rear axles. When two radial tires are used with two non-radials, put the radials on the rear axle.
Some tires are now marked with letters to indicate their speed rating, based on laboratory tests which relate to performance on the road. Tires may be marked with one of eight speed symbols, M, S, T, U, H, V, Z or W, to identify the particular tire's speed rating.
When replacement of tires is required, consult the vehicle manual for proper size and speed rating (if required).
If the vehicle manual specifies speed-rated tires, the replacement tires must have the same or higher speed rating to maintain vehicle speed capability.
If tires with different speed ratings are mounted on the same vehicle, the tire or tires with the lowest rating will limit the tire-related vehicle speed.
Tire speed ratings do not imply that vehicles can be safely driven at the maximum speed for which the tire is rated, particularly under adverse road and weather conditions, or if the vehicle has unusual characteristics. Never operate a vehicle in an unsafe or unlawful manner.
Tires should be of the same size, construction (radial, non- radial) and speed rating, unless specified otherwise by the vehicle manufacturer. Tires influence vehicle handling and stability.
Match tire size designations in pairs on an axle (or four tires in dual application), except for use of a temporary spare tire.
If radial and non-radial tires are used on a vehicle, put radials on the rear. If radial and non-radial tires are used on a vehicle equipped with dual rear tires, the radials may be used on either axle. Never mix radial and non-radial on the same axle except for use of a temporary spare tire.
Snow tires should be applied in pairs (or as duals) to the drive axle (whether front or rear) or to all positions. Never put non-radial snow tires on the rear if radials are on the front, except when the vehicle has duals on the rear. If studded tires are used on the front axle, they must also be used on the rear axle.
Match all tire sizes and constructions on four-wheel-drive vehicles.
Here are some things you should know about cold-weather driving.
Every time the outside temperature drops 10 degrees Fahrenheit, the air pressure inside your tires goes down about one or two pounds per square inch.
You should check your tire pressures frequently during cold weather and add the necessary air to keep them at recommended levels of inflation at all times.
Never reduce tire pressures in an attempt to increase traction on snow or ice. It does not work and your tires will be so seriously underinflated that driving will damage them.
If one of the drive wheels becomes stuck, the centrifugal forces created by a rapidly spinning tire can cause an explosion by literally tearing the tire apart. Never exceed the 35 mph indicated speedometer speed or stand near the spinning tire.
If your vehicle is stuck and a tow truck is not readily available, gently rock your vehicle back and forth, repeatedly shifting the gear lever from drive to reverse on automatic transmissions, or reverse to second on manual transmissions, while applying gentle pressure to the accelerator. Caution: If you have an anti-lock braking system (ABS) in your car, follow the operational instructions in your owner's manual.
In snowy areas, many cities and counties have "snow emergency" regulations which are invoked during heavy snowfalls. Check with authorities for the rules in your area. Under some rules, motorists are subject to fines if they block traffic and do not have snow tires on their vehicles.
You can avoid this by equipping your vehicle with snow tires marked with "MS," "M&S," and "M+S" on the sidewall. The letters "M" and "S" stand for mud and snow.
If you change to snow tires, be sure they are the same size construction type as the other tires on the vehicle.
Snow tires should be used in pairs (or as duals) on the rear axle or on all four wheel positions. If purchasing 2 new tires it is recommended that you install them on the back of the car. If you install a high traction tire on the front drive axle, you are leaving the lighter end of the vehicle (the rear) with no traction improvement. Most tire manufacturers recommend that front wheel drive vehicles have all four tires of equal traction. In all cases, install new tires on the rear axle. If your front tires lose grip first, your vehicle will tend to lose control by going straight, even in a turn. This is understeer, which can be controlled by slowing down and steering in the direction of the turn...this will allow your car to come back into line. But if the rear tires lose grip first, your vehicle, could spin, which is oversteer and more difficult to control, this requires you to make quick, precise steering corrections in the opposite direction of the turn, not a natural reaction. It is easier to control understeer than oversteer.
In areas where heavy snowfalls are frequent, many drivers carry chains for use in emergencies, or have their tire dealer apply studded snow tires. When studded snow tires are mounted on the front axle, studded tires also must be placed on the rear axle. Most states have time limits on the use of studs or ban them altogether. Before installing studded tires, check the regulations in your area. If you use chains, make sure they are the proper size and type for your tires, otherwise they may damage the tire sidewall and cause tire failure.
When you have a question about tires, or a problem, consult your tire dealer. The dealer is the best source of general information and professional service on tires.
Your dealer has service manuals, wall charts and other industry publications on tire load and inflation, tire repair and tire replacement. Your dealer can provide you with the replacement tires your vehicle needs, balance your tires and repair damaged tires which are repairable. Let the dealer inspect your tires periodically and diagnose any problem you may have.
When you discover a tire losing air, it must be removed from the wheel by an expert for complete internal inspection to be sure it is not damaged. Tires run even short distances while severely underinflated may be damaged beyond repair.
Punctures up to 1/4 inch, when confined to the tread, may be repaired by trained personnel. These tires must be removed from the wheel, inspected and repaired, using industry-approved methods which call for an inside repair unit and a plug.
A PLUG BY ITSELF IS AN UNACCEPTABLE REPAIR. The repair material used - for example, a "combination patch and plug" repair - must seal the inner liner and fill the injury to be considered a permanent repair. Never use a tube in a tubeless tire as a substitute for a proper repair.
Individual tire manufacturers may differ on whether the speed category applies to speed-rated tires that have been repaired. Consult the tire manufacturer for recommendations.
Injuries larger than 1/4 inch must be referred to a full service repair facility. No repairs to the sidewall of a tire should be made without consulting the tire manufacturer. After a tire has been repaired, check for leaks or other damage not detected at the time of repair. Improper repairs can cause sudden tire failure.
Air loss due to punctures can ruin tires that might have been saved had they been removed in time for proper repair. Gradual air loss raises a tire's operating temperature. This can cause some of the components to separate, or damage the tire body in ways that create rapid or sudden air loss.
Such internal damage may not always be readily apparent, and rapid loss of air may still occur despite later installation of a proper repair.
Tires should be stored upright and in a dry, cool place, away from sunlight and sources of ozone, such as electric motors.
However, if you must store tires flat (one on top of the other), make sure you don't stack too many on top of each other. Too much weight can damage the bottom tire.
Also be sure to allow air to circulate around all sides of the tires, including underneath, to prevent moisture damage.
If storing tires outdoors, protect them with an opaque waterproof covering and elevate them from the ground. Do not store tires on black asphalt, other heat absorbent surfaces, snow covered ground or sand.
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1.
Buying a car can be a tough experience. Aside from the fact that
you simply need a car in order to move about and do your thing, you’ve got the
heighten emotions of excitement, anticipation and longing for your
dream car, as well as a
financial commitment that probably comes in 2nd to a mortgage.
It’s a big deal. Be smart about it and consider the following advice straight
from the Source.
Some of this may be obvious, but it never hurts to hear it again…
1. Can you
afford it? Review your finances and find out what you can afford. Know
your budget. Not the fun stuff, but this can make you or break you.
2. Know your credit score!!! This will determine what kind of kick ass
or crappy financing you’ll get and this too can make you or break you.
3. Time of year. Yes, it’s true; you will get better deals at the end
of the month and end of the year. The sales biz is all about meeting quotas
and the pressure comes a-knockin’ at month end and year end and you can
benefit from this.
4. No emotional attachment. Don’t get excited. Don’t goo goo gaa gaa
over the car… it will end up costing you.
5. Sex matters. If you are a female, take your husband, brother,
father, guy friend with you. Unfortunately, if you are a female, then you may
end up paying more.
6. Go in there loaded and walk out (not drive out).
a. Comparison shop. Go
in there loaded with information about the car and make it known that you have
checked out other dealers.
b. Straight Shooter.
Related to the above, go in there, be upfront and let them know you are
ready to buy and that you have shopped around (be specific about which
dealers). Be generally
specific about the car that you want and put it on them to give you the best
price. While you want to be clear about the car that you want, you don’t want
to corner yourself in so make it clear that you are open to multiple options.
c. Walk out. Give them
your contact information and walk. Yes,
leave. Let them work you back in the dealership with a great deal
and not just a mediocre deal.
7. Try not to commit to the deal before negotiating. How does this
happen, you ask? The sales person will ask you question after question and
it’ll go something like this:
Sales person: Sir, you said wanted a white SUV, fully loaded?
You: Yes
Sales person: So you like the tan leather interior, right?
You: Yes
Sales person: Can we deliver today?
You: Yes
Sales person: So the most important thing to you is the monthly payments?
You: Yes
Don’t do this. You are trapping yourself and committing yourself to the deal
without even knowing it.
8. Don’t be lame and nitpick over small details. There is nothing worse
than haggling over $50 bucks. Don’t do that. Negotiate smart.
At the end of the day, the concept of a “good deal” is unique to each person and dependent on each person’s expectations and situation. So, go in there loaded with information about the vehicle that you want and do your research by comparison shopping. Your expectations may change and you will benefit as you load up on information. Otherwise, you may walk away paying $100 less than the sticker price on that Benz and think that you got a great deal ;-)
Winter Car Tips and Tricks for Easier Winter Driving
Winter
is a tough time of year where vehicles are concerned. Iced windshields, frozen
locks, and getting stuck in mud and snow are all too common winter automotive
realities. Follow these simple tips and tricks to make winter driving life a
little easier.
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/winterdrivingtips
Looking for reliable, fuel-efficient transportation under $10,000? Sh

The Seven Biggest Used Car Buying Pitfalls (and How to Avoid Them!)
Posted: 08 Dec 2009 08:18 PM PST
(This is a guest article by Paige Green*)
Whether it’s your first car or you’re tenth, we are all prone to some rather
basic mistakes when it comes to making the decision to buy. After all, a car is
emotive and appeals to some basic primal need we seem to have for things that
are shiny and go very fast. (Historically, our great great grandparents were
probably suckers for a speedy horse with a well groomed coat). Unfortunately for
our ancestors, they probably didn’t have the same access to information that we
currently do, so there was nothing they could do if their prize pony turned out
to be a training nightmare. Learn how you can avoid the pitfalls of car
financing and purchase by arming yourself with information.
Falling in Love and getting blindsided
Your perfect vehicle, it looks great, drives like dream and you’ll be the envy
of all your peers – if you have your heart set on the car of your dreams – STOP!
This is one of the most obvious traps of car buying, especially if you’ve
spotted the love of your life in a dealership parking lot. Becoming blindsided
and committed to a particular vehicle without first determining the implications
of the purchase can mean you’ll be drowning in heavy debt or be bound to
particularly unfavourable terms.
Not doing your Research
The decision to buy a car is not a light one and before you step into a
dealership or start considering internet auctions, you need to do your research
and find out what sort of vehicle will suit your needs. Consider your lifestyle
requirements as well as your budget and financing options. Don’t forget to
account for the future, if you’re not sure what your situation will be like in
five years, you might not want to commit to a vehicle that’ll lock you into a
particular style of living for the long term.
Buying and Borrowing out of your Budget
If you’re looking at financing options, it’s tempting to borrow up and “get
something you really want”. Remember that defaulting on your monthly payments
will seriously affect your credit standing and will have a substantial impact on
any future financing. Remember to also consider depreciation costs and other
factors that will affect the final value of your vehicle and your assets.
Not looking into finance
When you walk into the lot, the dealer usually offers you instant dealer finance
to help you with your purchase which always seems tempting since there’s no
lengthy and nervous waiting time that comes with bank loans or the unsettling
and embarrassing possibility of rejection. The problem is that without doing
your research and considering all of your car financing options, you can end up
paying exorbitant fees and higher rates in the long run.
Not test driving
As internet auctions become more prominent, it’s sometimes too easy to just
purchase a vehicle based on the owner’s description and not actually doing an in
person inspection, especially if the seller is out of state etc. It’s hard to
get the information you really need to ensure that a car’s performance measures
up to the promised description.
Not Doing a Thorough Inspection
Do your own check for oil (you want to make sure it’s clear and not dirty) and
look for any signs of water damage as this could lead to expensive problems in
the future even if the vehicle is running great now. When buying a used car,
it’s best to consider getting the vehicle inspected by a professional mechanic.
For a few extra bucks, it’s worth it to hire a mobile inspector to visit the
site and do a quick on the spot check to make sure the car is in good working
order. Alternatively, bring along a friend who knows about vehicles.
Not Getting a History Check
By running the Vehicle Identification Number (located on the driver’s side dash
or in the door jamb) through vehicle check, you can obtain the full history of
your car and find out if it’s been in any accidents or has any outstanding debt
attached to it. Don’t take a seller on his or her word, but arm yourself with
the necessary information to be a wary buyer.
*About the author: Paige Green hails from the Land Down Under and is an
expert at driving on the left side of the road. She waits eagerly for Lemon Laws
to be introduced there and also writes for
Australia’s
leading experts in
car finance.

Things You Should Know Before You Get an Auto Loan
Posted: 18 Nov 2009 07:53 PM PST
(This is a guest article by Karen Schweitzer*)
Car dealers are working very hard to make sure that auto sales rebound over the
winter season. And while it may seem like the ideal time to buy a new car, there
are a few things you should know before you get an auto loan:
*About the author: This is a guest post from education writer Karen
Schweitzer. Karen is the About.com Guide to
Business School. She also writes about
online degree programs for OnlineDegreePrograms.org
Just as it's necessary for us to put on a coat and gloves in cold weather, our cars need a similar kind of attention to function at their highest potential. Check out the best ways to winterize your car.
Check it out here: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/car-driving-safety/accidents-hazardous-conditions/car-winterizing-tips.htm
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Top 10 Tips For Not Screwing Up On The Road
Posted: 19 Oct 2009 07:40 PM PDT
This is a list of things which everyone can do while driving to have a dramatic impact on traffic. Mostly they’re the same things people are taught in driver’s ed class. They can have a very real and demonstrable impact on traffic conditions, particularly on the massive expressways, parkways, and turnpikes of large cities.
10
Drive Defensively
You know you’re the best driver on the road; just like me and everyone else. In a way driving defensively means you assume everyone else is a little slower to react, a little more distracted (like the young lady above), perhaps even a little stupider. Since you can’t control how smart or quick someone else is, all you can do is be as responsible as you can for your own piece of road. It’s more of a philosophy than a single skill. The goal is to keep the flow of traffic smooth by not giving the other drivers anything to react to, and giving yourself ample time to react to anything else.
9
Use your cruise control
Cruise control is one of those things that
works best when everyone uses it. If the person in front of you is having a hard
time maintaining a steady speed then it’s going to be impossible for you to keep
a reasonable distance and a constant speed if you can’t go around him. Same for
the guy behind you and the guy behind him.
Because you’re not having to use your foot to maintain speed you’re better
prepared to react by braking should the need arise. Just don’t let not having to
work as hard cause your mind to wander.
8
Be reasonable about merging
So you’re going down the highway and there’s construction ahead—two lanes go down to one. Two things cause the congestion at the merge; drivers in the through lane fighting to not let anyone in, and driver in the blocked lane trying to race to the front of the line. It’s a vicious cycle; drivers cheat often times because they can’t find a gap in the through lane cars. Drivers in the through lane often close the gap to keep cheaters from getting in.
There’s no way to really prevent some measure
of congestion when the same number of cars try to fit onto less road, but
drivers can minimize congestion by moving over into the through lane early then
leaving enough space ahead of them for other drivers to merge as well.
This is one instance where the way you’re driving can have an effect on traffic
far ahead of you.
7
The Two second rule
A reasonable distance between you and car ahead depends a lot on how fast you’re going. Some drivers are taught to keep a car length for every 10 miles per hour. More common these days is the ‘two second rule’ which states you should keep two seconds between you and the car in front of you. Pick a spot on the road, a signpost or other marker. Two seconds should elapse between the time the leading car passes the mark and the time you do. As your speed increases so does the distance which can be covered in two seconds. At 60 MPH (96.5 KPH) this is 176 feet (53.6 m).
6
The other two second rule
Reaction time isn’t worth a damn if you aren’t capable of reacting. Aside from intoxication or distraction, a major driving impairment is fatigue or boredom. Even if you aren’t sleepy or tired your mind can still drift away from the act of driving. Try not to look at any one thing for more than two seconds. Alternate between focusing on the road ahead and other things important to driving such as the speedometer, the gauges or the rear view mirrors. When you look away from the road don’t look at anything for any longer than it takes to actually get the information before looking back up the road… two seconds at the most.
5
Look as far ahead as you can
If all you focus on is the car in front of you then you will only have however long it takes to drive the distance between you if something happens. By paying attention to what’s going on as far down the road as you can see you give yourself a better chance of seeing and reacting to whatever the car in front of you will be having to react to. Try to predict what the cars in front you will have to do… will the guy in the tricked out Nissan slow down or will he pass the old lady in LTD on the shoulder? Plan ahead what you would do if something goes wrong based on what you see down the road.
4
Glance before changing lanes
Remember we’re trying to keep the flow moving slowly. If you do have to change lanes you want to do it without causing other drivers to have to react quickly to your lane change. If you’ve ever wondered what those mirrors on the sides of your car are for, they’re for looking to see if there’s anything in the way. Mirrors are great, but I’ve never seen a car that didn’t have massive blind spots on both sides behind the driver that the mirror can’t see. Giving a quick glance over the shoulder will let you know if you can change lanes without running someone else off the road.
3
Stay to the right, pass to the left

If you’re the type of driver that does the posted speed limit, no matter what the ‘real’ speed limit is then the thing you can do stay in the right lane. And by ‘right’ lane I mean correct. In America it’s to the right, and this time by ‘right’ I mean ‘not the left’. By doing this you minimize the disruption to the flow caused by faster cars having to merge into other lanes to go around you. This helps keep the over-all flow of traffic smooth.
If some asshat comes up behind you flashing his lights and following so close that you can see the clenched white knuckles on the steering wheel just merge to the right if you can and let him go. He’s a disruption to the flow of traffic as well as a jerk. He likely will leave waves of congestion in his wake, but the further he is from you, the less dramatic his effect will be.
2
Drive the real speed limit
To paraphrase the late great George Carlin, “ever notice how everyone driving faster than you is a maniac and everyone driving slower is an idiot?” The real speed limit is defined by the car in front of you. The best way to keep traffic flowing is to flow with it. If everyone on the road is doing a nice smooth 70 mph the one guy doing 55 is going to disrupt that flow in at least two lanes; the lane he’s in and the lane(s) the drivers behind him have to merge into to go around him.
By the same token the Cannonball Run wannabe doing 20 mph faster than everyone else will have to weave in and out of traffic to maintain that speed. Not only is he not likely to make up much time but he’s going to cause drivers all around him to react as he changes lanes. I realize that I am endorsing going faster than the posted speed limit just because everyone else is driving that fast, but it really can contribute to safety.
1
Don’t Tailgate
unless it’s a cookout in a parking lot…
It’s been proven that tailgating is the main cause of the ‘phantom’ traffic jam. You know the kind where all five lanes of road choke to a crawl for miles, and then about the time you expect to be passing a bloody 18 car pile-up all the cars ahead of you just evaporate without cause. Chances are really good it was caused by tailgating ahead of you. The concept is so simple it can be demonstrated with as few as three cars, all following close to each other. If the car in front taps on its brakes just for an instant, the second car has to brake harder to avoid a collision. The third car has to over-brake even more, practically coming to a stop. A few seconds later the tailing cars return to their previous speed like nothing happened. Now imagine that same scene multiplied 10,000 times.
Phantom traffic jams travel against the flow of traffic in massive waves which can be observed from the air, or if the road conditions are right they can be seen moving toward you. Distance equals reaction time. If everyone kept enough distance to give them enough reaction time the cars in the back wouldn’t have to jam the brake pedal to the floor. Space between the cars breaks up the wave, essentially robbing it of its energy.
Keeping some distance also gives you a better view of what’s going on ahead of the car in front of you. You have a better chance of seeing what it is the car in front of you will have to react to if your windshield isn’t filled by the tail end of the car ahead.
They may look similar from the outside, but there are many significant under-the-hood differences between an electric-powered car and a car that makes use of an internal combustion engine. How much do you know about electric cars?
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/electric-car-quiz.htm
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Custom cars made for TV were unique creations. Cars such as the Batmobile were usually built from pre-existing concept vehicles like the Lincoln Futura. Learn more about the Batmobile the Green Hornet's Black Beauty and the Monkeemobile.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/tv-custom-cars.htm
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10 Classic American Muscle Cars
Posted: 14 Aug 2009 05:54 PM PDT
Ah yes, Detroit muscle. American automobile ingenuity at its finest. I’m talking 1960s era Chevys, Fords, and Mopars, and I’m talking ones that go fast. Ok, I expect the typical Listverse flak about this list being “too American”, but cry me a river. If someone wants to do a European Sports Car list, more power to ya, but these machines are my idea of heaven on four wheels.
This is of course not a definitive list but before you comment, please note: you’ll find no pony-cars here, my friends. Maybe I’ll do a follow-up list of Camaros, Mustangs, etc. if this one is well received, but for this one I wanted to profile the more humble looking street machines. And sorry, I love ‘em, but in my world ‘vettes are “sports cars”, not muscle cars, so that marque is likewise omitted. And so without further ado, here are ten of my favorite muscle machines, right down to specific model-years that are of special appeal to collectors and enthusiasts. And yes, they are in no particular order (well maybe slight consideration) so don’t obsess about the ranking.
10
1963 Impala Z11 427
Chevrolet’s famed 409 engine was immortalized in the 1962 Beach Boys song of the same name, and was the desire of many muscle car enthusiasts in the early 60’s. In ‘62 the hot set-up was to order the 409 in the lightweight “bubble-top” Bel Air 2-door hardtop. Well, kicking it up a notch in 1963, Chevrolet introduced the Z11 option package for its Impala line. The package included a modified 409 increased to 427 cid by way of a stroked crank, and had special heads, valves and a two-piece aluminum intake manifold sporting dual quads. Output was rated at 430 hp. The additional Z11 features were not limited to the engine compartment however, as the hood, fenders bumpers and other items were made of aluminum to lighten its overall curb weight. This was a RPO (regular production option) package supposedly available to the general public, but appears to have only been selectively sold to racers with the intent of furthering Chevrolet’s cause at the drag strip. No matter, the ‘63 Impala SS with a standard 425 hp 409 was plenty fast for the average joe, regularly turning sub-15’s in the quarter mile. Only 50 or so (qtys vary by source) Impala Z11s were sold in 1963, and there are 7 known to be still in existence today.
9
1964 Ford Thunderbolt
Fomoco’s answer to keep pace with the lighter and faster Chevys and Mopars of the day was to cram its biggest motor, the big-block 427, into one of its smallest models, the mid-sized Fairlane 2-door coupe. Major front-end frame modifications were needed to accomplish this, as well as a large hood bulge necessary to accommodate the hi-rise manifold and twin fours, with air induction routed through dummy headlight openings in the grill. But nonetheless it was a factory-produced car available to anyone from their local dealership, listing at $3,750. Even so, it was purely designed for racing, with plexiglass windows, fiberglass body panels, and a spartan interior that lacked armrests, sun-visors, mirrors, sound-dampening insulation, and was radio- and heater-delete. Imagine those kinds of shortcuts in comfort and especially safety features being allowed in this day and age. Truth be told, the Thunderbolt was not really suitable for everyday use. Perhaps that’s why only 100 T-bolts were sold in 1964. But beware; these cars could pull down mid 11s in the quarter mile!
8
1969 AMC SC/Rambler
It is easy to forget that muscle cars (and cars in general) in the U.S. weren’t limited to the “Big Three” automakers. In 1969 American Motors Corp. joined forces the well known parts company Hurst Performance and surprised everyone with the SC/Rambler (aka “Scrambler”). The SC stood for “stock-car”, but this was a race-ready production vehicle. Maintaining the typical small-car-big-engine strategy, AMC stuffed their 390 cid 315 hp V8 power-plant into its light-weight Rambler Rogue hardtop coupe. This car could hold court with many of the more popular machines of the day, as stock vehicles regularly turned low 14s at the strip. No options were available (except an AM radio), which kept the price below $3,000. All cars had plain grey vinyl interior with bench seats and red white and blue headrests, carpeting, and a Borg-Warner 4-speed with a Hurst shifter. But perhaps the car’s most striking feature was its bold paint scheme and a large, functional “Ram Air” induction hood scoop. The first 500 units all were a base white with a wide red side panel running the length of the car, and had a blue stripe running front to back across the top of the car. An arrow graphic pointed towards the scoop and lettering noted the engine size. Additionally striking were the blue two-toned mag wheels. When these cars quickly sold out, AMC released a second batch of 500, this time with “B” trim, which was mostly white with narrow red and blue side stripes. A third batch of 512 units was later released which are thought to have gone back to the “A” trim, though this is a source of controversy among enthusiasts, as vehicle VIN codes do not differentiate between the two paint schemes. What is known is that of the total 1,512 SC/Ramblers built, the majority of surviving examples today have the “A” trim. The SC/Rambler is perhaps one of the least remembered muscle cars from the era.
7
1968 Dodge Charger R/T
Sleek “coke-bottle” body styling and a mean-looking black-out front grill with hidden headlights sets the Dodge Charger apart from the competition. The R/T (road/track) designation is what Dodge used to denote a car equally suited for street performance or drag racing. Heavy duty suspension provided superior handling (compared to the typical muscle car), and with a powerful 375 hp 440 Magnum V-8, this car ran the quarter-mile in just under 15 seconds, and listed for about $3,500. Not good enough? R/T Chargers with a Hemi under the hood (only 475 produced) would cost you an extra $600, but dropped that quarter time down to the mid 13s. A total of 96,100 Chargers were built in 1968, with 17,000 of them having the R/T designation. Fans of the 1968 movie Bullit might recall that Steve McQueen’s nemisis drove an awesome black 440 Magnum R/T Charger in perhaps one of the best chase scenes ever put on film. You can watch it here.
6
1969 Ford Fairlane/Torino Cobra
Officially, these are known simply as Cobras, according to period Ford advertising and sales brochures, and more importantly, the dealer winder-sticker. Really though, these are Fairlanes, as the Torino designation was an option package for the Fairlane body-code and was not yet a separate model line in 1969. Sometimes also referred to as the Torino GT or Fairlane Cobra, this naming convention generates some debate in collector circles. This line featured two body styles: the hardtop (aka “formal roof”) and the much more common “sports roof” fastback. The Cobra performance package included as standard the 335 hp 428 Cobra Jet V-8 with a Holly 4bbl. Optional Ram Air didn’t increase horsepower, but it boosted the performance peak to 5,600 rpm. Also included was a locking rear differential, which was exclusive to Ford. Quarter mile times were typically in the 14.5 second range. Exact production figures are difficult to come by, but it is estimated that about 14,000 Cobras were sold in 1969, with the vast majority of them being the fastback version. Naturally, I prefer the rare hardtop (pictured here), which number about 3,000.
Just paying the bills...
5
1969 Plymouth Roadrunner
Mopar struck paydirt when it came up with the idea of capitalizing on the muscle car wave of popularity by offering the low-priced Roadrunner to the masses in 1968, with 1969 being a particularly stellar sales year. They were definitely marketing the younger audience with better affordbility, as well as licencing the Warner Brothers cartoon character as its namesake and mascot, including the well-known “beep-beep” sound for its horn. To keep the price down, Roadrunners were minimally appointed, but these cars weren’t toys, as performance and suspension features were not compromised. Base stickered at under $3,000, the price quickly went up when you started beefing it up with power options. Who wants the standard 383 cid mill when you could get a 390 hp 440 with a three-two “Six-pack”? Well forget even that; what you really wanted under the hood was the 426 Street Hemi. Featuring hi-po goodies such as Hemi heads, 10.25:1 compression and two fours, its rated output boosted to 425 hp at 5,000 rpm. It could run the quarter in 13.5 seconds and had a top speed of 140+ mph! Over 80,000 units of the various configurations were sold in 1969, with the “no-post” hardtops being the most desirable among collectors. But the real find today is the rag-top, of which only about 2,200 were produced.
4
1966 Oldsmobile 442
Technically, pre-1968 Olds 442s weren’t an actual model, but rather “442″ was an option package available for the Oldsmobile Cutlass. The standard L78 400 cid engine incorporated a single 4bbl carburetor and was rated at 350 hp. The favored set-up for muscle car buyers was the upgraded L69, which was a one-year-only configuration that featured a hotter cam and a triple 2bbl carb “tri-power” arrangement, which helped increase the power rating by another 10 horses. Quarter-mile runs were as quick as 14.8 seconds. Rarest of the rare was the W-30 version of the tri-power motor, which also incorporated an air induction system via tubing from the front bumper. There were only 54 factory-released copies of the W-30, although another 97 were dealer-modified installations. Finding a W-30 442 today is next to impossible (at this writing, one is available on eBay for $70k!), but lacking that, the “regular” tri-power L69’s are most desired by collectors.
3
1969 Dodge Coronet R/T and Super Bee
I’m listing both versions of the ‘69 Coronet muscle car here, because they are both very similar (and very cool), but each one has its own unique advantages. The R/T option designation was available on several Dodge models starting back in 1967, and signified “road/track” performance. In 1969, many Mopar fans opted for the slightly less expensive Coronet Super Bee (boasting its unique logo in the rear-end bumble-bee striping). This was Dodge’s equivalent to the Plymouth Roadrunner, and as such, was equally minus many luxury features, making it lighter in weight as compared to the R/T. Super Bees are also much more common, especially those equipped with the base 383 cid (over 24,000 units sold), which was not even available in the R/T. A few Super Bees came with either the bigger 440 six-pack or the 426 twin-four Hemi. The R/T was only offered with the 440 Magnum or the Hemi. These burners routinely ran the quarter-mile in the mid-13s. As for the R/T being the rarer of the two models, about 6,800 R/Ts were produced in 1969, 400 of which were the R/T convertible (all Super Bees were hardtops). Ten of those rag-top R/Ts had the Hemi, and only four of those left the factory with the four-speed tranny.
2
1966 Chevrolet Chevelle SS 396
Chevrolet’s “Super Sport” option package was first introduced for the 1961 Impala and soon spread to its other model offerings including the Chevelle, which began life in 1964. The 1966 model year saw the Chevelle take on what I consider to be its best looking body style, with its most-recognizable feature, the classic forward-thrusting front fenders. The Super Sport version also included special wheel covers, red-line tires, and a black-out grill which showed off the SS badging to further compliment its bold appearance. Enginewise, the 396 was basically a de-stroked big-block 409, and was available in several configurations starting with the base-rated 325 hp version. The top option was the RPO L78 which was a mid-year release. Thanks to its 11.0:1 compression ratio, a hot cam, and other tweaks, this baby generated 375 hp at 5600 rpm, could go 0-60 in about 6.5 seconds and ran 14.5 second quarters. In 1966, Chevelle SS 396s with the L78 engine option numbered only about 100 units, and accordingly are highly prized today.
1
1967 Pontiac GTO
Many enthusiasts consider the “Goat” to be the first muscle car, and its classic split grill front-end design is among the most recognizable features of all muscle cars. Starting life as an option package for the 1963 Pontiac LeMans, the GTO became its own model series in 1966. Model year 1967 was the last year of this first-generation look with the stacked headlight design, and is showcased here. Standard equipment included bucket seats, a walnut-grained dash panel, duel exhaust, and a beefy suspension. A look under the hood found a bigger 400 cid motor than the prior year’s 389. Pontiac also went from a tri-power (three 2bbls) carb setup to a single 4bbl for the 1967 edition. The top performance option in 1967 was the 400 HO, rated at 360 hp at 5,100 rpm. Adding the Ram Air induction option slightly increased peak rpm. These GTOs typycally ran the quarter-mile in the low 14s. Almost 82,000 GTOs were sold in 1967, 13,872 of which had the 400 HO, with Ram Air installed in only 751 of these units.
bonus
1963 Plymouth/Dodge 426 Max Wedge
This entry is more about an engine, rather than a specific vehicle model line, hence the entry as a bonus item (plus, I couldn’t think of any other way to squeeze it onto the list!). The 426 RB Wedge (aka Max Wedge) was introduced by Mopar in 1963 as a factory produced “racing only” engine, and was sold through 1964, until it was replaced by the more famous 426 Hemi. According to sales brochures, cars ordered with the Wedge were “not a street machine” but were “designed to be run in supervised, sanctioned drag-strip competition”. The usual combo was to order it in Plymouth’s lightest weight model, the Savoy (pictured here), but it could also be found in the more luxerious Belvedere and Sport Fury models. The Dodge equivilent was typically found in the Polara, but in both marques, it could be ordered in any model offered (including wagons and convertables). 2,130 Mopar vehicles with this motor installation were produced in 1963. Boasting dual quads and 13.5:1 compression, this power-plant produced 425 hp at 5,600 rpm. Lightweight stockers with this motor flew down the strip in a blinding 12 seconds.
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Lessons in Fuel-Efficient Driving
Posted: 21 Apr 2009 01:00 PM PDT
One of the interesting features of our Prius is that it keeps a running tab on your current gas mileage. You can see both the mileage at any given moment or the average over your trip. Having such easy access to this information while you’re driving subtly teaches you how to drive more efficiently. Here are a few things we’ve learned.
Coasting makes a huge difference on your gas mileage. One thing this data has taught me is the huge value of coasting, particularly through a series of stoplights. Stopping and starting eats a lot of gas - our gas mileage during acceleration goes down to as low as 10 miles per gallon. Coasting, on the other hand, uses virtually no gas at all.
Before adjusting my driving, I had a strong tendency to leave a stoplight, accelerate to the speed limit in town, then often find myself hitting the brake and stopping again as I approached the next stoplight. That meant I was doing a ton of acceleration, then losing most of that speed by braking again just a block later.
Instead of doing that, I’ve found it’s just as quick (and way more energy efficient) to coast as much as possible through long strings of stoplights. I accelerate up to roughly the speed limit, then I coast for a while, particularly if the light ahead of me is red. Almost without fail, I catch up to the car ahead of me just as they’re accelerating away from the stop - and I already have some momentum going forward, which means I don’t have to accelerate nearly as hard to get back up to the speed limit. It doesn’t take any longer and it saves money.
I tested this out driving through the town where I live and the difference was tremendous - doing this added about 25 miles per gallon to my mileage through town.
Driving 75 on the interstate is substantially less fuel efficient than driving 55 on a two-lane highway. One regular trip for us is driving south to the West Des Moines area, about a 35 mile trip or so. We have two routes to get there that are roughly equal in length, but the interstate is a bit faster. On the interstate, of course, we drive around 75 miles per hour to keep up with the traffic. On the other hand, we can take the highway and go around 55 miles per hour. The highway usually takes us about six minutes longer to get to our destination, so before getting our Prius, we’d simply always use the highway.
But here’s the kicker. If we take the interstate, we would get around 38 miles per gallon. If we take the highway, we get about 52 miles per gallon. So, if we take the interstate, we use 0.92 gallons, but on the highway, we use 0.67 gallons. That’s a savings of about $0.48 on the trip, even in our relatively fuel efficient car.
This changes the equation just a little bit. The two lane highway is far more scenic than the interstate as well - there are many more interesting things to see and talk about along the highway route (meaning it’s easier to engage the kids). When you also toss in the fact that it’s cheaper - and it would be a much bigger difference in a less fuel-efficient car or if the price of a gallon of gas were higher than $1.94 - the balance starts to shift towards the slower route. Does the balance actually shift? Not entirely - for us, it still depends on a number of factors (the time of day, the presence of kids, and so on) - but the balance of values has changed.
Wind resistance makes a tremendous difference in your drive. Simply put, driving on a windy day (unless the wind is consistent and at your back) is incredibly inefficient.
On a recent windy day, my family and I embarked on a lengthy road trip where the wind was mostly in our face. This forced us to accelerate quite a bit more to maintain speed - and it pushed the gas mileage down about 35% (29 versus 44). As a test, I drove with the wind on another windy day and found that it improved our mileage by only about 10% (48.5 versus 44).
Thus, unless the wind is very, very consistent and at your back, a windy day will hurt your gas mileage. If you have an optional trip to make and there’s a heavy wind outside, you’re better off delaying the trip. That’s what I’ve already done twice since seeing the impact that a heavy wind can have on gas mileage.
Turn off your cruise control in hilly areas. In virtually every car I’ve used, cruise control has been a great tool on flat roads. It helps me control my slight lead-foot tendencies and seems to do a good job with gas mileage. The data from our Prius backs this up - on flat roads, that is.
If you enter a hilly area, though, cruise control is very inefficient. Instead of maximizing your speed going down hills and using that momentum, cruise control instead tries to keep the car within a few miles per hour of your set speed.
Since it can’t read the road ahead, it doesn’t know what’s coming up. You do. Take advantage of that and turn off the cruise control in hilly areas. I turn it off any time I go downhill or uphill, since it seems to be more efficient to build up speed going down the hill (getting well above your cruise speed) then coasting at the bottom until you get back to your cruise speed, and doing the opposite on hills (allowing yourself to get well below your cruise speed instead of accelerating into a hill).
In the end, our best value from the Prius might be the ability to actually see how our little driving choices affect our gas mileage - and how we can make better choices to vastly improve that mileage. As time goes on, these better choices become ingrained in our driving habits, making the more efficient choices our natural choices - ones that we’ll carry on to other cars. Fuel efficient driving doesn’t cost you time - it just saves you money.
Personally, I’d like to see all cars have a fuel mileage indicator. It’s been an invaluable tool for directly teaching someone how to drive more efficiently - and it’s easy to see the benefit when you go to the gas pump.

By Keith Griffin, About.com
Don't pay list price for a used truck or SUV. Dealers lots are full of them.
Photo © Keith Griffin
a moment to read this article and you should knock 15% off the cost of your next used truck or SUV.
· You’re Going To Save Money at Smart Dealers: Industry expert Dale Pollak writes in his book, “Velocity-From the Front Line to the Bottom Line” that used vehicles are assets that depreciate every day. Smart dealers know they make more money from quantity. They want to turn their inventory. Selling 1500 vehicles at a $400 profit is always going to be better than selling 400 vehicles at a $1500 markup because most dealers don’t have a handle on what it costs them to stock their inventory and carry it for 30 days or more.
· Find a Smart Dealer: Check the dealer’s website for the vehicle you want. If the price changes daily (or more often), you’ve found a dealer who has smart business practices. Websites with prices that don’t change for a week or more point to dealers who are living in the Stone Age.
· Independent Dealers Need Your Money More: Their sales are lagging behind franchised dealers who are better able to advertise their wares both new and used. An independent dealer faces greater pressure to deal.
· Private Sellers Are Your Best Bet: Facing the lion's share of used-vehicle declines were private-party sellers, which were down 13 percent. CNW Research of Bradenton, Ore., attributes a large part of private-party sales drop-off to an inability to find financing.
· Cash Is King: If you got it, flaunt it. Be up front that you’re paying cash and you’re willing to walk out the door. It’s just like real estate. The seller wants to know they’re dealing with a buyer who can actually pay.
· Most value-setting websites are at least a week behind: Websites open to consumers just don’t update that quickly. The introduction of a $2000 rebate on a new truck can have an instant impact on the price of used vehicles. Track manufacturers’ websites for special offers. By the way, smart dealers have tools at their disposal that are going to give daily updates on used car values.
· Be Patient: Find a truck or SUV you like. Note the price and wait a week. If the truck’s still on the lot, the dealer might start thinking it’s a dog that won’t hunt. If you’re really patient, wait two weeks. The dealer’s going to be ready to deal and grateful you’re taking the car off his or her hands. For example, according to an article in AutoRemarketing.com, a 2005 Cadillac Escalade ESV in mid-July 2008 had a wholesale price of $17,500, which was down $6,000 from a few weeks prior. In less than a month, the vehicle’s value dropped 25%.
· Do Your Homework on the Options: Some are overpriced because they were expensive when new. A three-year old DVD system, for example, could add $492 to the price of an F-150. Tell the dealer it’s a deal breaker. Old electronics aren’t worth squat. They depreciate much more rapidly than automobiles.
· Be Willing to Settle: Don’t lose a truck or SUV you really want over a couple hundred bucks. You offer a dealer $17,000 for a $20,000 truck. The dealer counter-offers $17,500. Take it. You’re still coming out ahead of the game – and the suckers out there still paying full price.
· Avoid Certified Pre-Owned: If the vehicle can pass a thorough inspection, now might be the time to avoid certified pre-owned. These vehicles cost more and are subject to higher markup. This step depends on your comfort level.
This truly is a buyer’s market. You are in control. Don’t pay full price for a used truck or SUV.
Related Articles
·Automotive Questions and Answers -
·Best Deals on Used SUVs and Crossovers
·Best Deals on Used SUVs and Crossovers
·Collecting Toy Trucks - Top Books
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"Car Buying Secrets for Getting the Best Deal"
Buying a New or Used Car?
This 8-part email course reveals 8 car-buying scams and schemes auto dealers don't want you to know about -- and shows you how you can save a lot of money on the car you want.
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I hope you're ready to find your inner mechanic, because today’s Web site is all about vehicle repairs. More specifically, here at Vehicle Fixer, you can watch videos that will help you repair your vehicle!
How does it work, you ask? Well, you can start by typing the type of vehicle you own or the type of repair you want done in the search engine. Then hit the Enter key. It will then display the video results where the example videos were previously. If there aren’t any to be found, it will display blank videos with the text "0 Videos Found."
If you scroll down past the explanation of the site, you can click on links to videos they have highlighted as examples of their service, as well as, a link to their blog, news and interviews.
I think this site is providing an excellent service to people who would like to do at home repairs on their vehicle, but need to see certain steps visually. Check it out today!
~ Amanda
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much? Tell us how you feel by rating it right here:
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Rat rodders build cars meant to be mean, fast and even a little scary. If you think they're just rusty, old junk -- maybe you should take a closer look.
Is anyone developing lifetime engine oil?
Wouldn't it be something if you never had to change your engine oil again? Let's take a closer look into oil and why developing lifetime liquid gold may be nothing more than a pipe dream.
What connects the gears to the drive shaft in a manual transmission?
A car's transmission enables the engine to provide a wide range of output speeds. Without it, you'd be limited to just one gear. Test your knowledge of both automatic and manual transmissions in this quiz.
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Published on March 9, 2009 by Kay Jay
http://listverse.com/miscellaneous/10-ways-car-dealers-make-money-off-you/
At some point in our lives, we all have to buy a car. Whether it be brand new or second hand, we usually end up going through a dealer. This list is designed to help you save money by not being ripped off by the little tricks that dealers use to maximize their profit and your loss. Be sure to give other tips for saving on a new car in the comments.
10
Mark-Up
This is the most obvious of ways a car dealer makes a profit. The difference between the dealer cost (invoice) and MSRP is typically 5-10%. This may not sound like a ton of mark-up, but when you consider that you’re dealing with thousands of dollars then the profit margin could be quite significant. For example, a car that a dealer pays $30,000 could generate a profit of around three-thousand dollars. And then multiple that times a few hundred cars a month, and a car dealer could make almost a million dollars a month on mark-up alone.
9
Hold Back and Advertising
When a dealer sells a new car (not a pre-owned), the sale is RDR’d to the manufacturer (basically informing the manufacturer that one of their units has been sold). Once this sale has been verified, the manufacturer pays the dealer a set amount of money for “hold-back” and advertising. This amount is listed on the invoice in a less-than-obvious location and is often abbreviated/written in a way that a customer will be unable to figure out the information in the event he sees the actual invoice. For example: if an educated customer will only pay a certain percentage over invoice, then that percentage is calculated by the “invoice” price before any “hold-back” or advertising is deducted. Once the deal is funded and the contract is RDR’d, the manufacturer will send the dealer a pretty substantial amount of money (I’ve seen some “hold-back” and advertising fees as much as $1500).
8
Undervaluing a Trade-In
When a person trades in a car, the dealer will surely attempt to undervalue the trade to make an immediate profit, and then a profit later when the trade is sold. The immediate profit comes from what is called the ACV (actual cash value). If a trade is really worth $11,500 (ACV) and the dealer only shows the customer $10, 500, then there is an immediate thousand dollar profit from the start. The trick is to know where a dealer gets his appraisal information (the most common are Black Book and Manheim Auction Reports. Dealers will RARELY match Kelly Blue Book and NADA) and work off that number to get a fair value for your trade. The other means the dealer will make a profit is when he sells your trade in. There are many financial and credit factors that can generate a profit from your trade. Simple example: your trade is bought from the dealer for $10,000. The dealer will then send your car through service and detail and make sure it is prepped for retail and safe to drive (he’ll also insure the car in most instances). Your old car will now be put up for sale for $13,999. Now, here’s where many factors come is based on the potential buyers situation. The lenders will “book out” a car based on a standard process (typically, a program called Dealer-Track will provide access to NADA for the banks and the dealerships to see how much a car can be sold for). Banks will loan a certain percentage of the cars loan value based on the customer’s credit worthiness. Let’s say the car “books out” for $13,125 (this is 100%), and the potential buyer has great credit. The lender will loan up to 135% of the cars value for that customer. Which means the dealer can sell the car to that well-qualified customer for over $17,000 and make a nice profit ($7,000). On the other hand, if a person has poor credit, then the banks will loan less than 100% and the dealer will have to take the deal at a lesser profit, or the customer will have to put some cash down to generate a profit the dealer will agree to.
7
4-Pack
New and Used cars are “packed.” This is a number that is immediately added to the car (in addition to the already existing mark-up). This is typically money that goes to pay the owner. The amount of pack varies between dealerships, new, used, etc, but I have never seen a “pack” less than $500. I’ve even seen some cars “packed” $1500. Let’s say a dealership sell 250 cars in one month, and the average “pack” is $1000: the owner makes a nice quarter million dollars a month on “pack” alone (3 million a year- not a bad salary).
6
Customer Service Fee
This is the biggest farce of them all. This is a dollar amount the dealer says goes to pay for the process of handling your paperwork, tag work, title work, tax work, loaner car, etc. The doc fees will fluctuate from dealer to dealer (I’ve seen $299 to $699). This is a legitimate process that does require paying a handful of people for their work, but- in no way does it cost anywhere close to the amount they’re charging. Most of the paperwork can be done is a few minutes and over the phone, internet, fax, etc. The overage naturally goes into management’s pockets.
Just paying the bills…
5
Bump-Stickers
Bad bad business practice right here. A “bump sticker” is legitimate-looking sticker that the dealer places next to the manufacturer’s window sticker with a higher priced MSRP than the actual MSRP. The dealer will try and justify this added cost by suggesting the car had some special product applied to the paint or the fabric, or some window etching was done, or they’ll try and itemize all the work that needed to be done to get the car prepped for retail (insurance, gas, detail, service, PDI- [post delivery inspection], etc), or they might try and tell you that this car had additional mark up because it’s a “hot item” and people are paying over retail for that car. It’s all a joke and educationally insulting. The theory is once the “bump sticker” is negotiated away, then the customer will feel that he got a pretty substantial discount, when- in fact- he’s simply paid full MSRP for the car: not a very good deal.
4
Service Contract
When a customer agrees to numbers, they will have to go the F and I office (Finance and Insurance) to finalize the car deal. This is where all the legal forms are signed, etc. However, this is also where a lot of money is made for the dealership. One of the big money makers in the car business comes from the sale of Extended Service Contracts (extended warranty). I would say nine out of ten extended warranties will cover things that are never likely to break. Additionally, you’ll need to pay a deductible (on top of the $1400 dollars you just paid for the warranty) each time you try and use the warranty. The mark up for this product is typically mandated by the state you live in, but you can expect to pay twice its original value. One good thing about an extended service agreement is that most of them are refundable (prorated based on what you haven’t used). Additionally, a certified pre-owned model is typically a better bet than an extended service agreement (because it’s backed by the manufacturer’s name. Extended warranties are typically backed by the private dealer with a lot less public reputation at stake).
3
Gap Insurance
Now this is a product that I strongly recommend you buy: it could turn out to worth its weight in gold. However, you don’t have to pay $599 for it at the dealership when you can get it at your local credit union for $150. Basically, GAP insurance satisfies the car loan in the event of theft or total loss. Your insurance company will only pay ACV for your loss, but GAP insurance picks up the “negative equity” you have remaining on your loan. For example: My car is worth $11,000, but I owe $16,000. In the event of a total loss of my car, the insurance company will only pay my lender $11,000 towards the loan leaving me having to come out of my pocket $5000 to satisfy the loan. However, GAP insurance pays the difference and I’m off Scott free to go buy a new car free and clear of any additional payment on the lost car.
2
Down Payment
A person with good credit should never have to put a down payment towards the purchase of a new car. However, there are some instances where it may be a necessary (too much negative equity in trade, personal need to lower monthly note, etc). But typically, if a customer is satisfied with their payment, and they don’t have a significant amount of negative equity, then the bank should have no problem lending money to a well qualified buyer. Sometimes a salesman or sales manager will say ‘The lender is requiring 20% down,” or they might say “You’re going to have to pay your taxes in cash. The bank will finance the car, but they will not finance any taxes or fees.” This is a lie. If you can secure your own financing (personal bank, credit union, etc) before you buy, then that would be in your best interest and eliminate a lot of the shenanigans that can happen at the dealership. Additionally, when the sales managers offer is itemized with a down payment and payment listed, the payment- more times than not- can be retained without the requested money down. Down payments usually result in sheer profit for the dealership.
1
Holding Points of Rate
This little gem is another reason car dealers get a bad rap. When a sales manager submits your application to lenders for approval, the lenders will reply with what’s called a “call back.” The “call back” details the requirements for the loan. Example: let’s say the sales manager submits the numbers to a prime lender- we’ll use BB & T- for approval. BB & T will reply with terms (24/36/48/60/72 months), maximum amount financed, stip’s (proof of income, proof or residency, references, etc), and what’s called a “buy rate.” The “buy rate” is the interest rate the lender has approved for the loan- let’s use 7.9%. Well, here’s where the finance manager can steal from you. Typically, the lender will allow the dealership to make 2 points of rate if you’re still ok with the payment. That means the rate you’ve earned is 7.9%, but the dealer can contract you at 9.9% and the bank will pay the dealer the overage from the rate. This puts LOTS of cash in their pockets. Next time you buy a car and finance with one of the dealerships banks ask the finance manager to see the call back from the bank and compare that rate with the interest rate he’s trying to sign you up for. If he refuses, then he’s holding points of rate and he doesn’t want you to see that he’s trying to get you to pay a higher rate.
Contributor: Kay Jay
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Too many distractions can put your family in danger. Here's how to make car travel safer when your kids are in tow.
Becoming a Safer Driver
Think about reckless driving and what image pops into your head? An 18-year-old kid barreling around in a Hummer? Britney driving with her baby on her lap? Obvious targets, yes. But take a minute. Can you honestly say that you -- a parent of young children -- are above reproach? "Most parents would stand in front of a bus if it meant protecting their child from harm. They'll childproof their home. They'll spend money on the safest family car they can find. And yet they'll get behind the wheel of a 2-ton vehicle and put those they love at unimaginable risk," says Paul Burris, president and founder of the Partners for Highway Safety (trafficsafety.net), in Tallahassee, Florida.
According to a 2004 survey funded by Volvo Cars of North America, more than half of parents admit to talking on the cell phone while driving with their children. Nearly 70 percent have never had a trained professional check their child safety seat. And a 2002 National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) study reports that more than 6 in 10 of us say we take attention off the road in order to contend with children in the backseat.
Why do we take chances? "Crashes aren't an everyday occurrence, and the longer you go without one, the more you believe such a terrible thing can't really happen to you," says John Ulczycki, director of transportation safety for the National Safety Council. Also dulling our sense of risk is the very comfort and safety of the cars we're driving. "You have these nice soft seats, the ride is smooth and quiet, you have your CD or DVD player. It feels like you're traveling around in a living room, when in fact you're hurtling down the highway at 60 miles per hour," Ulczycki says.
In an ideal world, everyone would be able to take a safe-driving class like the one offered at the Bondurant School of High Performance Driving, outside Phoenix. Even if you can't make it to Arizona, heeding these simple crash-avoidance strategies may save your life:
Raise your gaze while driving.
"Chances are, if the car in front of you hits the brakes, it's because something
is happening in front of him. By keeping your eyes on the car about five
vehicles ahead of you, you are buying reaction time and can start slowing down
even before the car in front of you does," says Bondurant spokeswoman Alice
Collins.
Don't slam on the brakes.
Suddenly braking may throw the car into a spin. Instead, lift your foot off the
gas, steer out of harm's way, then gently put your foot back on the gas.
Avoid target fixation.
"People tend to stare at the very thing they don't want to drive into. And it's
instinctive that your hands will steer you in the direction you are looking,"
says Collin